Rack and pinion steering shaft??

[allcarfan]

I went ahead and installed my rack and pinion rack. I also removed my steering box.

Now, I know that I need to connect my rack to the end of my stock steering column. Do I do this by buying some rag joints and an intermediate shaft? do I need to swap out my entire column? Do I need an adapter of some sort?

I called one place and they said...oh, we have what you need...some rag joints, a bracket, and an intermediate shaft....$378 + shipping. That doesnt seem right to me....but I am new to suspension.

Can someone enlighten me?

Disclaimer::: Yes, I did a search. No, I did not find a definitive answer.

 

[Protowrxs]

What brand of rack? Most all of the ones available either come with a new steering column or have instructions on how to modify and hook to your existing?

-Stephen

 

[allcarfan]

It is a standard Mustang II rack....

any directions online somewhere?

 

[Sundance]

You need to adapt the steering column to house a bearing on the lower end. I puchased a chunk of T6 aluminum on eBay for a few dollars and made an adapter. There was no available bearing that had the correct outer diameter and the correct inner diameter so you have to make a sleeve for the bearing. I might be able to get a pic and specs on the column adapter I made if you have access to machineing equipment (lathe).

You will also need a means to hold the steering column to the fire wall. I traced the column gasket and made a piece from 14 gage sheetmetal and welded it to the column. Or you can purchase a kit anywhere from cheap (couple of L brackets and a clamp ala ICP) to spendy (billet spherical joint) The sheetmetal route is cheapest and cleanest if you have cutting and welding capabilities.

The steering shaft will need to be cut off and shortened and a double "D" (DD = two flats) milled into the end of the shaft to take a universal universal joint (heh). From there you can order two universal joints (one DD to DD and one DD to Mustang II spline) from either Borgensen or Flamming River (both made by Borgensen) and an intermidiate DD shaft that you will need to be cut to fit. Whatever you do don't weld any of the joints. It can weaken them and is illegal in some states.

All said it's substantially cheaper to do it yourself even if you have to pay to have the parts machined.

 

[allcarfan]

Wow....

lots of welding and cutting...

Is there no other way to mate a stock steering column and a mustang II rack...AND clear large, long tube headers?

I looked at just swapping to a Flaming River Column, but then I remembered that there were issues with clearing aftermarket long tubes. Anyone know if that has been resolved?

 

[Sundance]

Is there no other way to mate a stock steering column and a mustang II rack...AND clear large, long tube headers?

Nope.

It sounds like alot of work, but if you have the materials on hand it only takes a few hours to do. The biggest obstical is to make the bearing adapter. R&C sells a bearing adapter/bearing kit. For that matter they sell an entire steering kit. But it cost more then I wanted to pay and in my opinion the way I discribe is better.
Here's a pic;

View attachment 461176

 

[Sundance]

If you go here; http://totalcontrolproducts.com/download/instructions/7903-COLM-04.pdf
You can see how ICP did it.

Here's a HotRodded version;
http://www.tperformance.com/category_pics/slimline_easy-angle_floor_mount.jpg

Another HotRodded version;
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/idt-2401300010_w.jpg

R&C's bearing adapter;
http://parts.homestead.com/Steering.html

Now quit reading and git'r done...

 

[Ronstang]

A Mustang II rack is front steer and our cars are rear steer. I am assuming you have a Mustang II front suspension setup in place then, right? If so why did your kit not include the shaft you need.

 

[Sundance]

Oh, one more note fit the engine and the headers you plan to use in the engine compartment prior to determining the column length. A stock column tube measures 34 inches in length. For reference my column is approx. 27 inches.

What engine do you have and what headers do you intend to use?

Here is an old list of what I've tried;

Headers known to not work:

Flow-Tech P/N 12104 86-93 255-302 1 5/8" primary 3" collector.
Hooker P/N 6111 64-70 260-302 1 5/8" primary 3" collector.
Hooker P/N 16862 86-93 255-302 1 5/8" primary 3" collector.
Tri-Y headers 64-70 260-302 1 1/2" primary 2 1/2" collector.

Headers known to work:

Hedman P/N 88390 79-93 255-302 1 5/8" primary 3" collector. (only fits with stock bellhousing and oil pan)
Mac P/N 0286 79-93 255-302 1 5/8" primary 2 1/2" collector (short tube)

Headers unknown to work:

Mac long tubes 79-93 255-302 1 5/8" primary 3" collector.
BBK long tubes 79-93 255-302 1 5/8" primary 2 1/2" collector.


If anyone can add to this list please post.

 

[Sundance]

If so why did your kit not include the shaft you need.

Because I bought only the parts I could not make easily, substantially saving a grip of cash to the tune of approx. half of what a kit costs.

Plus I wanted parts that were not included in a "kit", It wouldn't make sense to buy the "kit" only to bin half the parts and replace them with better parts.

Things I didn't buy in a "kit";
13" Cobra brakes
Custom hubs made from a Granada rotor
Mustang quick ratio rack and pinion (most kits use a MII rack with sloooow steering)
Bumpsteer kit
Heidts 2" drop spindles
Circle track upper A-arms
Upper A arm mount (mine is like a GM product, MII relies on teeth to grip and hold the upper A arm)
1" solid stabilizer bar
Koni coilover shocks
Hypercoil springs with slightly higher spring rate
Custom steering column (most kits can't fit large full length headers)
Custom engine mounts (back and lower then stock)


So basically I bought;
Crossmember
Lower A-arms
Shock mounts

Mainly because I was lazy and the geometry was already figured out.

 

[allcarfan]

I called Flaming River....it will cost me about $700 to go through them and get the parts I need. They said that they have no problems with their shaft clearing any type of headers.

Called the company that I got the suspension from..$309 for a complete kit that will mate my stock column to my mustang II suspension. They guaranteed that it would clear any and all header configurations...so we will see. I will keep everyone updated and take some pics. This weekend, I am only getting the suspension in, the steering will have to wait until I order the rest of it

If I was still in my hometown where the car is while it is being worked on, fabbing up some stuff wouldnt be a problem. Where I live now though, I have limited, very limited resources when it comes to fabrication.