I have a 351w in a 65 mustang and the 289 radiater is not keeping it as cool as I would like it too. I stay at 180 while driving but stopped i climb up fast to 200-210. i am wanting to put an aluminum radiater from a 69 mustang in my car. I do not want to cut my current support though. Will I have any cooling problems if I leave the opening the same size but just fab some brackets to bolt the bigger radiater in place. I dont know much about cooling but it seems that haveing the bigger radiater will dissperse the heat wich will help idle cooler.
radiater swap 65 mustang
- Thread starter bodavis100
- Start date
Im not sure how many cores. Its brass and tiny though. I dont have a shoud on it so I know thats part of the problem but I havent bought one because I wanted to replace the little radiater any way ( I like the look of a big aluminum radiater). As for a fan it has a spacer and sits really close to the radiater, you cant get a wrench between the radiater and the fan. I was looking at the 67-69s I think if I move my battery to the trunk it will fit.
Puting a battery in the trunk is a perty big task. I wouldn't try to tackle that as one of your first projects. You will want to get some experience first.
I would just pull the radiator out that you have in there now, take it to a custom radiator shop and have them build you a new one. You can have them build you a 2 core aluminum and that will do you.
Aluminum cores are 1" where as copper cores are .5"
I would just pull the radiator out that you have in there now, take it to a custom radiator shop and have them build you a new one. You can have them build you a 2 core aluminum and that will do you.
Aluminum cores are 1" where as copper cores are .5"
PoppyMod
Member
Hi
If you are sincere about not changing the rad frame, you have two choices, as I see it. One, you can opt for a 4 row copper unit or a 2 row aluminum unit from Redline cooling, both can be had to fit the factory mounting (i run a 4 row copper).A optimum (IMHO) cooling set up, is a 180 degree T/S, a 3-4 row copper rad with a shroud, a 16-17" fan with the blades within 1" of the core and within 50% of the shroud. Not to mention, a coolant recovery system to maximize the coolant to minimize any air in the system.
The Redline aluminum unit is nice but not all that necessary, if all else is in play.
All of this being stated, it's a given your AFR is not too lean and your timing is correct for your build.
Good Luck!
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