Radiators, Fluidyne vs. 03 Cobra

[Rickyll7]

Does anyone know which one is better? I hear that the fluidyne unit is better, but how much better, is it worth the extra 100-150 or so? Does any one know specification differences which might make one better than the other? Thickness maybe?
Thanks for the help.

 

[Rickyll7]

Anyone?

 

[hotmustang331]

Someone knows...but not me lol. People are just arent in the helping mood i guess

 

[Gearbanger 101]

The Fluidyne is a little heavier duty built radiator. More duable, slightly different design a little thicker too I think and it's got a polished finish. More efficient than the stock Cobra unit when the horespower really starts to climb, but probably nothing you'll ever notice on your average daily driver.

 

[SilverSteed]

A friend of mine bought a fluidyne and it cracked, leaking fluid everywhere. There was no hassle getting it replaced though and it has been fine since.

 

[Bubba Z.]

Funny you should ask as I just installed an '03 Cobra radiator in my '98 GT whose radiator was starting to leak bad. The Cobra radiator is all-aluminum, slightly thicker, 3 core and cost me $220.00 bucks shipped to my door. Installation was a breeze and my stock fan fit w/ no problems. While my needle used to peg smack dab in the middle with my old radiator, it now pegs ever so slightly on the cooler side -- barely.

I've heard nothing but good things about the Fluidyne and it's obviously a more efficient heat exchanger since it's so much thicker/bigger. But it was about twice the price as the Cobra.

In the end I ended up with a good upgrade, all aluminum and didn't pay out the ying-yang. For my application (daily driver), just couldn't justify the need for an expensive radiator. Hope this helps.

 

[296blackstangs]

Have Fluidyne

I just bought the fluidyne unit and love it. It is twice as thick as the stock rad. and is a very good quality piece, with all the seam's welded. It fit right into stock location with no problem. And with underdrive pullies, I am running cool (between O and R) on gauge and operating temperature. Very happy, and would say worth the money.

 

[03ghoststang]

those fluidynes are a good radiator they cool alot better and they are just about twice asthick as the stock one

 

[Venom_Nitrous]

Fluidyne here
It's purdyr than the cobra one

 

[Ghost001]

I've had the Fluidyne for 2 months. So far, no problems.

I also have a 160 F thermostat, and my fan turns on at 165 F I think, and my ECT is never higher than 170 F, and is usually about 160 F.

I also have the Meziere electric water pump.

I wonder if there's any benefit to having 3 cores versus 2 cores?

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I've had the Fluidyne for 2 months. So far, no problems.

I also have a 160 F thermostat, and my fan turns on at 165 F I think, and my ECT is never higher than 170 F, and is usually about 160 F.

I also have the Meziere electric water pump.

I wonder if there's any benefit to having 3 cores versus 2 cores?

I'm surprised that performs properly running at such a low temperature level. These EFI cars usually require a little heat in order for the EEC and sensors to perform their functions properly.

 

[Rickyll7]

Ive got a 180 degree thermostat, will that work well with a fluidyne unit?

 

[Ghost001]

I'm surprised that performs properly running at such a low temperature level. These EFI cars usually require a little heat in order for the EEC and sensors to perform their functions properly.

Kenne Bell sent me the 160 degree thermostat with their kit, and I'm currently using the Kenne Bell tune, which has the fan turning on at 164 F.

So far, it seems to work okay, although I'm still trying to accurately measure the A/F.

It did dyno a bit low (325 rwhp SAE, 345 rwtq SAE, on a dynojet).

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Kenne Bell sent me the 160 degree thermostat with their kit, and I'm currently using the Kenne Bell tune, which has the fan turning on at 164 F.

So far, it seems to work okay, although I'm still trying to accurately measure the A/F.

It did dyno a bit low (325 rwhp SAE, 345 rwtq SAE, on a dynojet).

You might want to consider swapping it out to a 180 or a stock 192, just to see if it helps any. It’s a cheap swap and certainly couldn't hurt things if you're temperature still remains within normal operating temperature (which I imagine it would considering the heavier duty radiator), things will be all the better.

The problem with running a 160-deg thermostat in an EFI car is, is that it takes longer to reach and stay within operating temperature on those cooler days. This makes the computer think that additional fuel is needed in order to run properly (similar to a warm up) and can cause your performance to suffer as well as make your car harder on gas. Not to mention shortens the life of O2 sensors and your EGR by causing carbon deposits within the system and creating dirtier emissions levels....and of course, this is all while also polluting your oil that much quicker and shortening the duration of needed oil changes.

 

[hotmustang331]

I also heard that the EEC pulls timing until the temp reaches 180*s. I would put a 180* in if I were you. And yes that seems pretty darn low...about 33HP/37TQ more then me . I know lasered 2V's 1.7 didnt put out 9PSI when they got a gauge put up. Was somewhere around 340RWHP. Now setting @ 38X with all the boltons and the proper PSI.

 

[Ghost001]

Thanks for the info, Gearbanger and Hotmustang.

At the dyno, the A/F was way too rich, less than 10:1, which was as low as they could measure. However, I'm going to install a wideband O2 sensor to measure for myself.

If my A/F is indeed rich, then maybe I will try a 180 F thermostat.

 

[COBRA90GT]

Here are a couple of visuals. '03 Cobra radiator Vs Fluidyne. I went with a Fluidyne radiator.

 

[Chris00GT]

When my stock 00 rad started to leak, I borred a friends Fluidyne till my 03 Cobra rad showed up. The fluidyne kept the car cooler. The fan hardly ran at all. I then swaped it out and installed the 03 rad. I noticed the ran ran a little more, but for the price it's hard to beat the 03 cobra radiator.