Suspension re-installing rear...

kendawg73 · Jul 30, 2018

I"m hoping to get the rear back in next weekend (then hopefully the engine before winter)... anyway... when I put it back in, I'm installing J&M upper control arms (they have the 3-peace poly bushing, (center ball and the 2 side parts) which allows it to move... I installed new stock rubber bushings on the axle housing (did that this weekend, used the MM axle bushing removing/installing tool... well worth the 40.00)...

And I'm install the Maximum motor sports lower controls, with ford racing lowering springs (these are the ones that lower it just a little).. (both the upper and lowers are non-adjustable by the way) and they have the poly bushing in the chassis end and the spherical bearing on the axle end.

my ? is, the stock rubber bushings have teeth on them, so I know there not suppose to move... so... my understanding is, I need the weight of the rear of the car on the rear before I torque them correct? so I jack it up, and remove the jack stands that are under frame and move them to under the rear axle, and let the jack down... I can then torque all the bolts for the upper and lower controls arm right? Which is also how the front lower control arms are done, I would need to put jack or jack stands under the controls arms so all of front car weight is on it before torquing (which I can't do until motor is put back in later)

Mstng93SSP · Aug 1, 2018

In my experience it's not really the weight that you need (for the rear anyway), but the rear end to be at the normal ride height before torquing the bolts. You could actually leave the jack stands under the frame, and jack the rear axle housing up to normal ride height (by eyeball), torque the bolts and it should be fine. I have done this many many times and never had an issue. For the front I would think the same principal would apply, but it would be hard to jack the control arms up as the car will start raising before you get it to ride height. Because of this I think you would need the weight of the engine for the front.

Mustang5L5 · Aug 1, 2018

That rule generall applies to all suspension components with bushings. Torque at ride height because the rubber (or poly) bushing will bind the further it gets from its resting point.

3-piece bushings can be torqued anywhere

kendawg73 · Aug 1, 2018

Mstng93SSP said:
In my experience it's not really the weight that you need (for the rear anyway), but the rear end to be at the normal ride height before torquing the bolts. You could actually leave the jack stands under the frame, and jack the rear axle housing up to normal ride height (by eyeball), torque the bolts and it should be fine. I have done this many many times and never had an issue. For the front I would think the same principal would apply, but it would be hard to jack the control arms up as the car will start raising before you get it to ride height. Because of this I think you would need the weight of the engine for the front.

Right, I need to remove the jack stands from the frame anyway... so getting them back under the rear, and have the rear sitting on them... will leave the car at ride height then, right? since the rear springs will be there..

and yeah, I need to put the front springs in, but can't until I put the motor in, since I know jacking up the control arm to compress the springs is going to lift the car up off the jack stand.... hoping to get that all done in next few months...

General karthief · Aug 1, 2018

In reality you should have the vehicle level, with full weight and the jack stands under the rear end housing and the front control arms, then torque to specs.

Red50Fox · Jun 26, 2019

Hi, I'd like to toss a question out ro the group. How do you determine "normal ride height" other than eyeball? I'm planning on a 5lug conversion and thought it would be a good time to do a set of gears. That led me to thinking about picking up a rear end, doing the gear update and 5 lug and then swapping out the entire rear axle. But it sounds like the swap may not be as esy as I originally thought. Opinions?
A related question. How much does a fox 8.8 weigh? No control arms etc., just drum to drum. ( I want to know if I can move the axle on my own, put it in my wagon, take it out on my own!)

Mustang5L5 · Jun 26, 2019

It's been a while since my rear was out but it's definitely a 2-person job. I'd say 200-250 lbs or so?

Red50Fox · Jun 26, 2019

Well that may change my pickup and transport plans. Any thoughts about the axle swap and normal ride height? Last time I swapped an axle it was on a leaf spring truck so this is new to me.

General karthief · Jun 26, 2019

I removed and installed my 8.8 by myself. Moved it around on a floor jack and loaded it on a small trailer with an engine hoist.
I'm not a big guy but I am resourceful. One person can do it.

Wayne Waldrep · Jun 26, 2019

General karthief said:
I removed and installed my 8.8 by myself. Moved it around on a floor jack and loaded it on a small trailer with an engine hoist.
I'm not a big guy but I am resourceful. One person can do it.

Same here. Except I'm over sized and use to pick up everything. That's why I can't half move now! It's not a difficult job though....go for it.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 27, 2019

General karthief said:
I removed and installed my 8.8 by myself. Moved it around on a floor jack and loaded it on a small trailer with an engine hoist.
I'm not a big guy but I am resourceful. One person can do it.

If you have the means to lift it up, it's manageable. I installed my 8.8 all by myself and it wasn't bad to lift one side at a time and walk it into place and adjust and use a jack to do the main lifting. Plus if he has to go pick up the part, there's no guarantee the seller has a hoist or even capable of lifting anything.

But to he-man one up into the back of a SUV or truck...you'd have to be one big, strong dude.

Low trailer, you can probably walk one up. Best to just take a strong buddy or two or ask the seller if he can help. Two strong guys...pretty easy

Mustang5L5 · Jun 27, 2019

Red50Fox said:
Well that may change my pickup and transport plans. Any thoughts about the axle swap and normal ride height? Last time I swapped an axle it was on a leaf spring truck so this is new to me.

Yes, you want to torque at right height for the non 3-peice bushings.

For the rear, just put the axle on jackstands and then torque.

Up front, you'll need to wait until the weight of the motor is in. Snug them up, and then attach a tag to the arms stating they need to be torqued, that way once your full weight is in the car you have a reminder to put the front on ramps and torque the arms down.

Red50Fox · Jun 27, 2019

Thanks for the info. I may rethink my strategy and bring the car to a shop for the rear gears and do the 5 lug later. That way (I'll admit, lack of experience) I don't have to get involved in putting in the new axle (correctly!) I was thinking that it might be more effective to do the gears and 5 lug outside of the car and then just "roll" the new axle in place. I have time to think on this. Thanks for all of the input.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 27, 2019

When I change my rear gears again, i'm removing the axle and doing it on a bench.

R&R the axle is pretty easy really. It's just awkward being under the car and rolling it out. Reinstalling it is no big deal. Snug everything up, then move the jackstands to under the axle and torque to spec. Really simple.

Red50Fox · Jun 27, 2019

OK, that puts me back to my original thought pattern. By the way, what gears are you running and (your opinion) what would you run if you were me 1988 mustang GT, 123k, basically stock (70mm throttle body) AOD trans. Would like to get some more pep around town and still be decent (ish) on the highway. It will be 5 lugged either shortly before, or after not that, that matters.

General karthief · Jun 27, 2019

Most will do a 355 or 373 gear, I would do the 373 with the aod.
there is some thought process to it, tire diameter, future modifications, how the car will be used.

Mustang5L5 · Jun 27, 2019

With aod 3.73 or 4.10. When my car was aod I ran 3.73 and thought it was perfect

Red50Fox · Jun 27, 2019

Thanks again for the info. I seem to be in the ballpark with what I was thinking for gears 3.55, 3.73. 3.73 seems to be more common. As far as tire size 245/45R17 (25.7") cold air intake, better exhaust, better intake(?) - nothing dramatic.

kendawg73 · Jun 28, 2019

I took mine out and installed by myself... used floor jack under it to move out and back under car.

Blown88GT · Jun 28, 2019

General karthief said:
Most will do a 355 or 373 gear, I would do the 373 with the aod.
there is some thought process to it, tire diameter, future modifications, how the car will be used.

Yes, & 3.55 with the T5
However, 1st gear is too tall.

Suspension re-installing rear...

Well-Known Member

You have a nice rear end there Dave.

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Well-Known Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Active Member

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Active Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Before I post a pic, do you have one of yours?

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Active Member

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Active Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Active Member

Well-Known Member

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