Reached the final straw... think shes gone

ive already got other plans for it i think. going to fix/sell this 306 shortblock and get what i wanted in the first place.

a dss 331 shortblock. ill get my 24# injectors and call it good. i know i installed the head gaskets right. i just believe the block is somehow screwed from the prior owner/shipping in the so called "crate". i KNOW my heads are good.

also that way i can get a better fitting cam for it also. looks like another 2500ish into this pos car, in the end i suppose it will be worth it.

i really dont want to touch the car for a little bit, just hoping for a running date by christmas at this point.
 
O also, not sure if this is important... when my cylinders were honed, I believe the machinist used a torque plate? He said something about it keeping the cylinders equal under stress. I actually got the block decked later after that same machinist decided to ruin a $3 oil plug that ended up costing me $3000... and you think you've had it rough...
 
yes, they are on the right way. not blocking the coolant passages.

ive cooled down alot this weekend and am not going to sell my car, i love it too much. just need to learn from my mistake; DONT BUY USED SHORTBLOCK NO MATTER HOW MANY MILES WHEN ITS IN MICHIGAN AND YOUR IN WASHINGTON :D

sirsureshot, do you have any opinion on chp and dss? those are the two stroker shortblocks im looking at getting.

basic $2000 shortblock with my edelbrock heads, fti cam (will get one ground), edelbrock performer intake, ect. MAYBE 5 psi of boost later on. think that will be a reliable engine from either company or does one stand out over the other?

only reason im saying chp is im in washington and they are in california for cheaper shipping, plus ive heard them both recommended. :shrug:
 
I heard bad things about CHP engines from a couple of guys i know who ran them, had problems, then ended up eating them (CHP wouldn't warrantee anything). I like what i hear about DSS and D&D's engines. Personally the D&D 342 Longblock is the best deal out there if you ask me. You get a race-prepped factory bore block, FORGED CRANK (which is overlooked on a lot of stroker assemblies), forged rods/piston, main girdle support, afr 185 heads, oil pump, dampener, fly wheel, B+B'd, and dynoed at 500hp for $4295.00. Thats what i plan on going with....do what you'd like, just my $0.02.
 
damn, thats a pretty good deal.

i dont know that ill be able to get over 4 thousand, but ill definately keep it in mind. the main thing im trying to think responsible for myself now. i just came from a worn out, badly running stock 5.0 basically, i dont know if i should go back with 500 hp lol.

i was always responsible driving, but thats at least double the hp. :nice: :nono:
 
thats a killer deal with d&d. i got my transmission from a guy which they built and it is a good transmission.

going to see what kind of feedback i can find on those engines. ill probably get that 385 bhp 302 they have. only a few hundred more then the ford crate, and seems to be alot better parts.
 
yeah that 385 horse 302 is a good deal. Better than the GT40 Crate that comes with HYPER-u-CRAPTIC pistons! At least you get forged pistons in everything D&D puts out. As for a forged crank...not really necessary till you get above the 500+ hp range like i plan to be. If you decide to go this route, post with your opinions/results on the product.
Thanks
 
Dont give up the ship!

Been there, done that, redid the head gaskets on my wife's Windstar 4 years ago. Started it up, kept overheating for 2 days, so I pulled it apart again. Redid it. Same problem. Finally the Ford Dealer tech told me that I had to vacuum fill the cooling system. That fixed it.

Except that I started the engine the first time with no oil!!!

That van is still running strong, and I see it at least twice a week!!!!