Read codes, know what they mean, need help fixing them!

95BlueStallion

My assy trans to myself
15 Year Member
Feb 22, 2007
5,060
3,095
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Cedar Rapids, Iowa
So I finally received my code reader today. I have a few stored codes, but I know why they are there. When I run the K.O.E.O. test, I get the 111, so I think Im good there. (I read that was the "all clear" code) When I run the K.O.E.R. test I get a 311 which stands for, "Thermactor air system fault during engine run self test." I also get a 314, which is the same, but has "left side" on the end... Is this a fancy way of saying I have a vacuum leak? I removed my smog pump, and just plugged the vacuum lines that ran to it. My CEL never came on after that project. It just started after the intake swap... My CEL comes on mostly when the engine is under more of a load, such as going up a long hill, or cruising at low RPMs such as 1500-2000. Ill start here and see what you guys think if you dont mind helpin a rookie... If you have questions to help the investigation, please ask away.
 
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The last time I scanned for codes, I got the 314 code.

However, my CEL was not on and I have my smog and cats on my car.

My light hasn't come on yet, but sometime soon, when the weather gets better, I plan on doing another scan.

If you don't mind my asking, what code reader did you get and where?
 
For those that have no AIR solenoids, a tune or resistor in the wiring might be the solution.

If one has all the smog stuff, check for VPWR to each solenoid. Put a test light on each solenoid (biased across each one's electrical connector) and run codes. When the puter cycles each solenoid, your test light will illuminate for a second. This tells you the wiring is intact and the command is making it.

If ok, it's time to energize each solenoid and test the valves.
 
For those that have no AIR solenoids, a tune or resistor in the wiring might be the solution.

If one has all the smog stuff, check for VPWR to each solenoid. Put a test light on each solenoid (biased across each one's electrical connector) and run codes. When the puter cycles each solenoid, your test light will illuminate for a second. This tells you the wiring is intact and the command is making it.

If ok, it's time to energize each solenoid and test the valves.

Youre too smart for your own good, Hissin! If it comes to energizing solenoids, Ill probably just deal with the light. Im not a huge electrical kinda guy... I thought from the way the code description sounded that it was an air leak somewhere... Lol, shows my technical skills! Now, I dont have a smog pump, and I am going to have a chip burnt to shut off my EGR and give me a little tune. What exactly are the AIR solenoids, and where are they located in the car. Im comfortable playing with wiring, but not huge on diagnosing wiring problems. If youre able to break it down for a monkey, that would help me tremendously. :(
 
Since you dont have an AIR pump, I'd not sweat it. If you disconnected the electrical connectors for the TAB and TAD solenoids, this might be causing the code. The car is capable of cycling the AIR solenoids and noting the change in O2 reading (this is one way it tests itself. However, most cars seem to pass this test even when the AIR solenoids are gone).

If the E-connectors are unplugged, reconnect them. Otherwise it probably is going to require a tune or resistor in the wiring to fix CEL.
 
Thanks again guys. Now I dont plan on a dyno tune, just having a custom chip burnt. I have some EGR codes stored from the past, which is part of the reason I want it shut off, plus I just want to remove it so there is less clutter under the hood. Thats the same reason I removed the smog pump. Ill ask the guy doing my chip about shutting off the air pump crap as well. I never disconnected any connectors when I removed the air pump, but maybe Ill try disconnecting them for giggles. I did a search and found where they are located. Thanks for the suggestions guys, and explaining what the thermactor is. I appreciate the help.
 
For those that have no AIR solenoids, a tune or resistor in the wiring might be the solution.

If one has all the smog stuff, check for VPWR to each solenoid. Put a test light on each solenoid (biased across each one's electrical connector) and run codes. When the puter cycles each solenoid, your test light will illuminate for a second. This tells you the wiring is intact and the command is making it.

If ok, it's time to energize each solenoid and test the valves.

I have no idea, what you just said.:(

Does this have anything to do with my a/r ratio meter in my car not working when my CEL comes on?
 
172 is a system lean code and 412 is a code for being unable to control the idle. A vac leak can create both issues.

If one only has a lean code from one O2, I'd switch the O2's, clear the code and see if the code follows that particular O2.