rear brake install problems

thomas91169

I'd donkey punch my sister.
Aug 19, 2005
0
0
0
Modesto, CA
im going to shorten this for you guys, cause i need answers quick.

1) brakes squealing when not applied, grinding when applied(rears only, fronts are 2 months old)

2)picked up new shoes, installed them to brackets.

3)bought new C-Clamp to press piston back into caliper.

4)piston would not go in farther than where it originally was when the old shoes were on, leaving me to believe calipers are frozen.

5) purchased new calipers and rotors(since rotors were gouged from metal/metal contact

6)installed new calipers, rotors and shoes, no problems there.

7)went to bleed brakes cheater method, runing a vac hose from schrader valve to a bottle with brake fluid.

8) lots of air came out, but brakes still spongy. what did i do wrong?
 
do you still have the old calipers? Most likely they weren't bad in the first place. You need a special tool because the pistins need to be turned and pushed in at the same time. The c-clamp won't work back there. As far as the pedal feel...did you check and bleep all the brakes? Are sure your problem isn't in the front?
 
The rear caliper pistons screw in, you can borrow a tool for this at AutoZone for a deposit of $40 or buy the tool at Harbor Freight for $40.

As for bleeding the brakes, try installing speed bleeders. This makes it a lot easier for bleeding by yourself.

40732.gif
 
well your old calipers were still fine, as others said you screw these calipers in not press them back in.

am I really going to have to embarrass stangnet with a sticky on how to compress the rear calipers. :nonono:

as far as bleeding the brakes, just get one of those brake bleeder kits from auto zone, it attaches right to the bleeder and all you do is pump the brakes and make sure you top off the fluid.

this works a lot better, either that or do it the old fashioned way. get a friend to pump the brake then while he holds the pedal down you crack the bleeder valve, then AFTER YOU SHUT THE VALVE he lets up on the pedal and do this again until you got a firm pedal.
 
Don't touch the MC. Those bleeders are there only if you run the system dry.

ALso, there is no reason to bleed the brakes unless it's dirty, or you crack open a brake line which you did.

DOn't worry, not everyone realizes the rear caliper pistons screw in
 
Mustang5L5 said:
DOn't worry, not everyone realizes the rear caliper pistons screw in
Seriously, why would anyone even expect caliper pistons to screw in? Its retarded if you asked me :notnice: Why did Ford do that? Is it for the emergency brake mechanism or something?
 
so umm, any reason why ive been bleeding them for the past 2 hours and while the fronts squirt out when opened, the rears are still a slight drip?

btw, i dont mind about the calipers, the new ones are nice and shiny.
 
Kilgore Trout said:
Seriously, why would anyone even expect caliper pistons to screw in? Its retarded if you asked me :notnice: Why did Ford do that? Is it for the emergency brake mechanism or something?


It's for the e-brake mechanism. It's pretty common with cars that have the e-brake integrated in the caliper.
 
Kilgore Trout said:
Can you bleed a hydroboost? :scratch:


not only can you bleed a hydroboost but there is two different bleeds for two entirely different reasons.

if you replace a power steering component you have to bleed the p/s system and with that the hydroboost ( runs off the P/S)

if you open the brake system up you have to bleed the brake fluid.


and why is the screw in calipers retarded. would you rather have that drum in hat design that is prone to failure thats used in the explorer and crown vics and such.
 
ok well taking tomustangs words into consideration, i decided to bleed it from the cylinder.

the man is a genius. first try i had a whole lot of air come out(i was using the bottle-hose method), and bring the pedal up sucked the resevior of half its contents. bled it a few more times and now its back to normal.

tomustang gets 1052 points for nailing it on the head. now i can still make it to paint tomorrow, and hopefully have it back before next weekend.
 
tomustang said:
I always end up having to do it on the ABS cars, never had to do it on the non-abs GT though


I've never had to on an ABS car :shrug:

My understanding is that you should only touch those if you get air in the MC...which is what sounds like happened to the OP