Rear control arm opinions?

#2
GT Convertible said:
I'm looking at getting these control arms to mainly get rid of the quad shocks. .
Click to expand...


You realize this is a myth right? Aftermarket control arms don't always mean you can ditch the quads. Plenty of guys here need quads even with high dollar arms (myself included)

You really want to keep your quads of you can. They do the job they were intended to
 
#4
Yeah but for a daily driver a Watts link, Panhard Bar, or Torque Arm are pushing the budget. Notice the price of the set he is looking at - $150. Now I love MM as much as the next guy and I have a couple pieces of theirs on my ride, but if his budget is in the $150 range, that will cover the cost of sub frame connectors (which, by the way, is an excellent idea - this should be mod #1 on any Mustang regardless of what year it is)
Personally I am very happy with my UPR rear suspension setup. They offer excellent performance with excellent prices - check em out --> UPR Products | Mustang Parts & Performance | Mustang Suspension | Mustang Billet | Mustang Cold Air Intakes | Mustang Exhaust
Also while on UPR's website take a look at the tab labeled "Racers, Customers and More" - it's a virtual who's who of Mustang racers. That gives you an idea about their products.
You should also consider battle boxes.
Best of Luck!
Chris
 
#6
GT Convertible said:
1979-98 Mustang Tubular Rear Upper And Lower Control Arm Kit, Black by 50resto at LRS - Same Day Shipping!

I'm looking at getting these control arms to mainly get rid of the quad shocks. Has anyone purchased and installed these ones and did you like them? i use my car as a daily driver. Any feedback is appreciated and Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I just installed that kit, but I haven't drove it yet. I would say its a pretty good kit for the money.

I left the quads off per the instructions, hoping I can do away with them.
 
#7
If you buy cheap suspension components, you're putting your car and your ass on the line, plain and simple. There is no sugar coating it. Plenty of examples of guys who cheap out on control arms, only to have them fail under load.

Look at it this way: You put a junk set of cheap cylinder heads on your car, the worst that can happen is you drop a valve and trash a cylinder. The car coasts to a stop. You put a set of cheap control arms on your car, the worst that can happen is one lets go while you're rounding a merge ramp at 80 mph. The axle goes squirrely and suddenly you find yourself doing barrel rolls into oncoming traffic.

Look into companies like Maximum Motorsports or Steeda. I have a set of Steeda UCAs and LCAs on my car. No quads, no wheel hop, and I don't worry that my stuff will fall apart.
 
#8
i have decided to look at UPR upper and lower control arms, but now i am wondering if i should get the spherical or the urethane bushings. i thinking urethane, but my car will soon be over 400hp, so I don't know if they will be able to handle it. I am also looking at subframe connectors, and i know that the weld on are better than the bolt ons but i was wondering about the seat brackets that are on some of them. What is the point of the seat bracket?
 
#10
GT Convertible said:
i have decided to look at UPR upper and lower control arms, but now i am wondering if i should get the spherical or the urethane bushings. i thinking urethane, but my car will soon be over 400hp, so I don't know if they will be able to handle it. I am also looking at subframe connectors, and i know that the weld on are better than the bolt ons but i was wondering about the seat brackets that are on some of them. What is the point of the seat bracket?
Click to expand...

Definitely get some with the seat brackets, I got the MM subs and I didn't realize it until I drove the car back from the shop but my seat was sagging pretty hard due to the floor pan. The subs actually raised the seat up a little bit.

Maximum Motorsports Bare Steel Standard Length Subframe Connectors for 79-93 Mustangs
 
#11
LarsD said:
Definitely get some with the seat brackets, I got the MM subs and I didn't realize it until I drove the car back from the shop but my seat was sagging pretty hard due to the floor pan. The subs actually raised the seat up a little bit.

Maximum Motorsports Bare Steel Standard Length Subframe Connectors for 79-93 Mustangs
Click to expand...

those are cheaper than the ones i found. the ones i found were SVE brand and were $119.99. I will definitely get some of those when i get the money, especially since i have a convertible.
 
#12
I like FRPP uppers with your choice of good lower arms. I have BBK upper/lower on my '93 LX but they were on it already. They are getting changed out though for sure. I like any of the MM stuff. Steeda lowers work well too, alot of guys have good luck with the UPR stuff as well.
 
#17
GT Convertible said:
i definitely want to put 17x9's on my stang, but I think I will go with Nitto 555's since it is my daily driver. I'm gonna go with 255/40R17 to be on the safe side. nothing worse than cruising through a parking lot and hitting the speed bump to hear the tires rub.
Click to expand...

I have no rubbing issues at all. They are close to the quad shocks but no rubbing. My car sits really low too, it has BBK specific rate springs that are over 1 1/2" drop. 555 might better if a daily driver, not sure how they hook up I've always ran 555R in the back on all my cars.
 
#18
NikwoaC said:
If you buy cheap suspension components, you're putting your car and your ass on the line, plain and simple. There is no sugar coating it. Plenty of examples of guys who cheap out on control arms, only to have them fail under load.

Look at it this way: You put a junk set of cheap cylinder heads on your car, the worst that can happen is you drop a valve and trash a cylinder. The car coasts to a stop. You put a set of cheap control arms on your car, the worst that can happen is one lets go while you're rounding a merge ramp at 80 mph. The axle goes squirrely and suddenly you find yourself doing barrel rolls into oncoming traffic.

Look into companies like Maximum Motorsports or Steeda. I have a set of Steeda UCAs and LCAs on my car. No quads, no wheel hop, and I don't worry that my stuff will fall apart.
Click to expand...

Where has this happned?i have never heard of a control arm ''letting go'',do you mean like leaving the bolts out of it?.Just curious
 
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#19
Rick James said:
Where has this happned?i have never heard of a control arm ''letting go'',do you mean like leaving the bolts out of it?.Just curious
Click to expand...

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/812566-so-why-those-summit-control-arms-were-so-cheap.html

I've *heard* people talk about this stuff happening in other scenarios, this is just one of the examples that sticks out in my mind. Usually it's a bushing that fails and the rear gets squirrely, but in this one, the control arm itself broke. Two things I'll never cheap out on: suspension and brakes.

Edit: My Steeda LCAs are designed for cars that weigh more than 3500lbs, make more than 400rwhp, and cut 1.65 second 60's. No way my car is even close to any of that, but at least I know these LCAs will stick around until I get there. :D
 
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