Fox Rear control arm reviews request

[7991LXnSHO]

I have a pair of Steeda aluminum LCA’s, and am debating on the uppers. (Jrichker says to go matched in the modifications thread.) the matching Steeda uppers come with three piece Bushings in the car end and some axle housing bushing, Max Motorsports has a rather sock looking upper pair with hard durameter, rubber bushings, and I am not sure about the axle end bushings.
I really do not want binding, urethane squeaking and much more NHV. This will continue to be driven now straight and crooked roads in anything but snow (if I can help it). After 29 years, the 350-ish HP and manual transmission could probably use better bushings and rear control arms arms. First gear is a joke in rain, although I do not yet have axle tramp.!After having been used in a stock appearing race class along the line, the bushings have to be worn.
PST Poly Graphite bushings looked surprisingly expensive, and are probably not What I want for on ramps and roundabouts.
So - how about reviews on the Steeda uppers and the MM uppers, please?

 

[revhead347]

Running the same Steeda upper and lower control arms for 22 years now. They don't bind, just grease them every decade or so. Steeda is a top end brand, you can't go wrong calling them and getting their guidance. Probably just need new bushings pressed in.

Kurt

 

[nickyb]

I've had Metco upper/lowers on my daily since 2007,I've greased twice or three times and no problemos.Like suggested get matching with grease fittings.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I was surprised how light the lowers are. The build quality was not surprising. Nobody is going to notice the minor cosmetic flaw on a street car.
My Ranger squeaked the front sway bar to body bushing regularly, weather cleaned and greased or new. The PST polygraphite ones on my Mustang may not even be greased and are quiet. I’ll use plenty of the right synthetic grease on my new arms’ bushings then.

Running the same Steeda upper and lower control arms for 22 years now. They don't bind, just grease them every decade or so. Steeda is a top end brand, you can't go wrong calling them and getting their guidance. Probably just need new bushings pressed in.

Kurt

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I do not remember the Metco brand.
I might see if some of their Marauder parts fit a Grand Marquis.

I've had Metco upper/lowers on my daily since 2007,I've greased twice or three times and no problemos.Like suggested get matching with grease fittings.

 

[nickyb]

I do not remember the Metco brand.
I might see if some of their Marauder parts fit a Grand Marquis.

they were super expensive when they came out.their claim was they are 400 times stronger then stock,I believe team z owner said they were overkill,that the torque boxes would ripe out first.I got them used for a great deal so that's that!

 

[2000xp8]

For a long time i ran steeda lowers and motorsport uppers.
My car wheel hopped without the quad shocks.

Later i swapped in a set of extreme Maximum motorsports lowers (at the same time i reinstalled the quad shocks), i can't for sure say if one or both fixed the wheel hop, but it doesn't wheel hop anymore and the uppers are still the same.

What truly changed everything for me was adding a panhard bar. Personally i think it's the only real way to make the back end predictable.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I do not need to remove the quad shocks for tire clearance, so that is not an issue at this time. I should inspect and test them while under there.
What brand of panhard bar did you install, and how is the dual exhaust clearance?

My Grand Marquis has a Watts link and it handles nothing like I expected a boat on a solid rear axle to.

 

[2000xp8]

I do not need to remove the quad shocks for tire clearance, so that is not an issue at this time. I should inspect and test them while under there.
What brand of panhard bar did you install, and how is the dual exhaust clearance?

My Grand Marquis has a Watts link and it handles nothing like I expected a boat on a solid rear axle to.

Honestly, i can barely come up with any reason anyone that isn't a drag racer needs to remove the quads. My tires are pretty wide and there is plenty of clearance.

I have an MM bar and a dynomax ultraflo catback (lx version) and it fits fine, no modifcations necessary.

I've attempted over the last few years to obtain the majority of the MM catalog (for the most part i'm only missing the torque arm).

While i didn't so much mind my steeda arms, they had a 3 piece bushing design that consisted of basically 3 rings.
The MM arms have a spherical bushing setup. I can't see how the MM arms wouldn't be better.
Mind you, i had the steeda's for a long time, not sure what the newer models are like.

I would have considered a watt's link, but i don't think i ever found a bolt in exhuast that worked.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Thanks! The LX exhaust fit is what I needed to know about.
When I had Dronemaster 40’s replaced with super turbo mufflers, the exhaust fit was fine cool. But when it got hot, a pipe stretched in length enough to made horrible noises against a corner of the gas tank. Then it went back as the car cooled off. I think they cut out only a quarter of an inch of pipe and welded it back together. But that’s a tight area for space.

I like the 3 piece bushing idea for less NHV with the advertised launch and corner control. I just do not like the cost compared to cheaper steel arms.
A softer durameter poly, one pice bushing would probably be fine for my use. I just do not want to go home chemist (Walter White/ Heisenburg) and start rebuilding my own bushings. It is too much mess and hassle when I can use lighter and stronger arms with the bushings included.
In another 30 years, the custom mix mess may make more sense. By then, it will probably be a weekend cruiser for one of my kids and their problem.

Honestly, i can barely come up with any reason anyone that isn't a drag racer needs to remove the quads. My tires are pretty wide and there is plenty of clearance.

I have an MM bar and a dynomax ultraflo catback (lx version) and it fits fine, no modifcations necessary.

I've attempted over the last few years to obtain the majority of the MM catalog (for the most part i'm only missing the torque arm).

While i didn't so much mind my steeda arms, they had a 3 piece bushing design that consisted of basically 3 rings.
The MM arms have a spherical bushing setup. I can't see how the MM arms wouldn't be better.
Mind you, i had the steeda's for a long time, not sure what the newer models are like.

I would have considered a watt's link, but i don't think i ever found a bolt in exhuast that worked.

 

[2000xp8]

I wouldn't weld anything on the exhaust. You can use a sawzall and slot all the connections and use good band clamps.
This way it can be adjusted infinitely.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I did not weld the exhaust. I wrote the check that time because work was busy, and the 40’s were already welded on and had scraped the road from light blue MM lowering springs. I needed all the clearance the experienced tech could get me. Otherwise, I’d have used the band clamps like you recommend.

 

[revhead347]

Honestly, i can barely come up with any reason anyone that isn't a drag racer needs to remove the quads. My tires are pretty wide and there is plenty of clearance.

Weight is the reason. If they serve no purpose, then it's extra junk in the trunk. After always having the quad shocks in my cars, I made the hard commitment to delete them on my new axle. They are cutting the quad shock mounts off the axle completely, so no going back. I would say that if you have the original quad shocks on your car, then they are probably worn out anyway. Another trick is to turn them around backwards if you need extra tire clearance.

Kurt