rear diff going out?

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viridionplague

New Member

Oct 8, 2007

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Oct 26, 2007

#1

• Oct 26, 2007

• #1

so lately ive been hearing a metel on metel rubbing noise at low speeds, i thought it was coming from the pass front wheel but was not sure. nothing is wrong with it at all. today after a long drive at low speeds ive been getting alot of shuttering, thinking it was the rear end i jacked it up, the inside of the rear driver side wheel is covered in fluid but its not the brake lines, there is alot of play in the rear if i rotate one wheel there is alot of play and noise while the other tire will not move. is this a sign the rear end is going out or is it just low on oil and there is a broken seal. ive heard from a mechanic that it will be something like 1200 to replace a seal, this seams like utter bs, tomarrow im topping it off with oil to see if thats the problem. looking forward to feedback thanks


something i forgot to add is that i have noticed alot of oil between the driver side rotor and the dust shield, the axel houseing is coted with oil

 

SublimeRT

Member

Jan 25, 2003

230

1

16

Clarksville, TN

Oct 27, 2007

#2

• Oct 27, 2007

• #2

The play in the wheel makes me think axle bearing. This probably made the axle seal go out which explains the oil everywhere. It is definitely not a $1200 job. All it requires is pulling the axle, putting a new bearing on, and changing the seal, none of which are that hard.

 

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viridionplague

New Member

Oct 8, 2007

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Oct 27, 2007

#3

• Oct 27, 2007

• #3

so how hard is it to replace the bearing and seal?

 

GTA_V6_Mustang

Active Member

Nov 29, 2004

1,326

3

39

Miami, FL

Oct 27, 2007

#4

• Oct 27, 2007

• #4

With enough patience and the right tools you should be able to do it yourself. Just make sure you have a friend and a whole day to do it since its your first time. A haynes manual definately helps.

 

SublimeRT

Member

Jan 25, 2003

230

1

16

Clarksville, TN

Oct 28, 2007

#5

• Oct 28, 2007

• #5

Definitely get a manual of some sort like mentioned. I got a copy of the factory Ford manual on a cd on ebay for like $8. I like it better than thumbing through a big book and I can just print off a certain page and take it to the car with me if I need to, like a wiring schematic or something. But to pull the axle basically you need to jack up the car and put it on stands, take off the wheel on the side you'll be pulling the axle, unbolt the caliper and tie it out of the way with a zip tie or bungie cord, no need to disconnect the line, drain the diff fluid, take off the cover, there's a little bolt on the diff holding the differential cross shaft in it, take that out, pull the shaft, pull the c-clip off the axle and pull the axle out. You can rip the old seal out with some pliers or slide hammer or something and drive the new seal in with a big socket or seal driver. The bearing will probably have to be pressed off and the new one pressed on, not a big deal for a competent machine shop or chassis/rear end/tranny shop. They should all have the means to do it. Reverse procedure to put it back together. It's recommended to use a new cross shaft bolt every time you remove it, but they're a few bucks at a dealer. Fill it with appropriate fluid and a bottle of friction modifier from Ford. That's basically it, there's a few other little things, but I didn't want to write a book.

 

Tom95gt

Member

Oct 10, 2007

186

1

19

South Jersey

Oct 29, 2007

#6

• Oct 29, 2007

• #6

speaking of diffs, when u get a new posi unit does that mean u have to redo the ring and pinion?

 

T

tderrick

Member

Oct 27, 2004

312

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17

Oct 29, 2007

#7

• Oct 29, 2007

• #7

I'd Make sure it's the rear end and not a brake leak. Take a whiff. Rear end oil smells
horrible from the friction modifier.

 

GTA_V6_Mustang

Active Member

Nov 29, 2004

1,326

3

39

Miami, FL

Oct 29, 2007

#8

• Oct 29, 2007

• #8

tderrick said:

I'd Make sure it's the rear end and not a brake leak. Take a whiff. Rear end oil smells
horrible from the friction modifier.

Click to expand...

Rear end oil smells horrible period, lol

 

S351Saleen77

Member

Jun 27, 2002

423

0

16

Washington

Oct 29, 2007

#9

• Oct 29, 2007

• #9

SublimeRT said:

The bearing will probably have to be pressed off and the new one pressed on, not a big deal for a competent machine shop or chassis/rear end/tranny shop. They should all have the means to do it. Reverse procedure to put it back together.

Click to expand...

The bearing is in the housing behind the seal not on the axle thats why we have "C" clips holding the axle in, unlike 8" or 9" rears that have the bearing pressed on.

When the part of the axle wears from riding on the bearing the axle will wobble a little and a new seal will leak right away. If the axle is too worn it has to be replaced also.

 

SublimeRT

Member

Jan 25, 2003

230

1

16

Clarksville, TN

Oct 29, 2007

#10

• Oct 29, 2007

• #10

^^Ahh, thanks for clearing that up. Been a while since I messed with an 8.8. Last thing I messed with was a 9". But yeah I remember how it's set up now that you mention that.

 

go-stang5.0

New Member

Jan 27, 2003

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Glenview,Il

Oct 30, 2007

#11

• Oct 30, 2007

• #11

My chiltons guide got me through this pretty well. It's not a hard job at all just kinda smelly. I would replace both axle seals and wheel bearings while I'm there. YOu will def. need to rent or buy a wheel bearing puller and a bearing/seal installer. There cheap simple tools but why buy if you dont do this for a living.

 

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viridionplague

New Member

Oct 8, 2007

98

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Oct 30, 2007

#12

• Oct 30, 2007

• #12

well ive got bad news, just heard back from the shop and basicaly most of the rearend needs replacing, diff, gears, seals and bearings

so the install is going to be 350 if i go with just replacing the parts (LABOR ONLY)

anyone feel like helping me locate parts? or have any sugestions on a good site to order from

i need 3.55 gears for a future turbo
differential. go with an upgraded model or just rebuild what i got?

maybe or maybe not axels?
bearings and seals

 

BaBysARM

Founding Member

May 9, 2002

161

0

0

Hickory, NC

Oct 31, 2007

#13

• Oct 31, 2007

• #13

what state do you live maybe someone here can point you in the right direction?

 

go-stang5.0

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Jan 27, 2003

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Glenview,Il

Oct 31, 2007

#14

• Oct 31, 2007

• #14

350 sounds about right to do the rear. If your planning on a turbo and slicks maybe go with a 31 spline diff. and axles. If its gonna be on street tires you can upgrade to better 28 spline axles when and if you snap these. 3.55's are nice gears. Get ford motorsport ones, they are usually the best quality gears. I believe summit sells full rebuild packages (gears, shims, bearings, seals, diff, etc.) and there prices are very competitive. The diff is up to you, I road race and will be going with a torsen when the time comes, but you may want an eaton or stick with a trac-loc...your gonna have to research whats best for you as far as that goes. Hope this helps.