rear differential

jlangholzj

Mustang Master
Oct 23, 2006
248
31
93
CLT
well i decided against the mini-spool, but hopefully, after i sell some calves this weekend, I'll have some extra money floating around :nice:

anyway, what would you suggest for a limited slip unit for my car?

8", 28 spline

i was looking at this:

Powertrax 1810-LR - Powertrax Lock-Right Lockers - summitracing.com

says that it unlocks to give full differential in turns...can anyone give this validity?

again, what do you guys like/ dislike...or what should i stay away from?

thanks! hopefully I'll have a solid TWO stripes next week ;)
 
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I wouldn't have anything to do with a locker in a street driven car. I would go for a Ford traction lock or something like an Auburn limited slip. These are both clutch disc type limited slip units. The Ford unit is rebuildable, so you could get a used one and rebuild it. A rebuilt kit for the diff is about 50 bucks. The locker types don't perform well when cruising around.

My friend had one in his 70 Mustang and hated it. I also had one in my 95 F150 for all of 3 months and I also hated it. It didn't last long either. They are also noisy and jerky. I think that lockers are only good for off road vehicles or stip only cars. Definitely not for a street driven car. I am running a traction lock in my 95 F150 and have been since 2001. I will also be running a traction lock in my 65's Versailles rear end.
 
Here is my recommendation: 8" Trak-loc , got it off Ebay 2 years ago from a guy who builds them. Just do search for Ford 8", several ratio's to choose from, as you can see i went w/ the 3.80. It's built to handle up 450-500 hp.
835961_150_full.jpg

835961_151_full.jpg
 
Here is my recommendation: 8" Trak-loc , got it off Ebay 2 years ago from a guy who builds them. Just do search for Ford 8", several ratio's to choose from, as you can see i went w/ the 3.80. It's built to handle up 450-500 hp.
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/7/web/835000-835999/835961_150_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/7/web/835000-835999/835961_151_full.jpg


:nice:

do you know by chance what the limited slip unit inside is? Just because I can, I'd like to do the work myself....but I'll DEFINITELY look at that also.


thanks guys!
 
I wouldn't have anything to do with a locker in a street driven car. I would go for a Ford traction lock or something like an Auburn limited slip. These are both clutch disc type limited slip units. The Ford unit is rebuildable, so you could get a used one and rebuild it. A rebuilt kit for the diff is about 50 bucks. The locker types don't perform well when cruising around.

My friend had one in his 70 Mustang and hated it. I also had one in my 95 F150 for all of 3 months and I also hated it. It didn't last long either. They are also noisy and jerky. I think that lockers are only good for off road vehicles or stip only cars. Definitely not for a street driven car. I am running a traction lock in my 95 F150 and have been since 2001. I will also be running a traction lock in my 65's Versailles rear end.

I second what tx65coupe said. I just installed a Powertrac from Richmond and it makes me very uncomfortable driving around the street. My Dad just had a Eaton Limited Slip installed and the guy installing it will not do Richmond. We haven't completed the install yet, but it seems to be a much better performer than what I have.
 
Here is my recommendation: 8" Trak-loc , got it off Ebay 2 years ago from a guy who builds them. Just do search for Ford 8", several ratio's to choose from, as you can see i went w/ the 3.80. It's built to handle up 450-500 hp.
835961_150_full.jpg

835961_151_full.jpg

I got the same exact unit and gear ratio. Probably from the same person, although I purchased mine this year at Carlisle for $595. The seller uses all new parts, gears, bearings etc. The unit uses 4 spider gears rather than the weaker 2. He told me it would be capable of handling well beyond 500 hp, which is beyond the range I am concerned about. Ben using it for about 4 months and no problems at all. Perfect ratio for my T5.
 
I got the same exact unit and gear ratio. Probably from the same person, although I purchased mine this year at Carlisle for $595. The seller uses all new parts, gears, bearings etc. The unit uses 4 spider gears rather than the weaker 2. He told me it would be capable of handling well beyond 500 hp, which is beyond the range I am concerned about. Ben using it for about 4 months and no problems at all. Perfect ratio for my T5.



did those units come from TJ1141? ........... I'm thinking about buying one on eBay!
 
I got the same exact unit and gear ratio. Probably from the same person, although I purchased mine this year at Carlisle for $595. The seller uses all new parts, gears, bearings etc. The unit uses 4 spider gears rather than the weaker 2. He told me it would be capable of handling well beyond 500 hp, which is beyond the range I am concerned about. Ben using it for about 4 months and no problems at all. Perfect ratio for my T5.

Yep, I believe it is TJ, sounds like you got a deal, i did the auction style on ebay and got mine for about $650 i believe. I've been happy w/ mine as well. His customer service is great. Mine had a very slow leak on the pavement, that i determined was fluid being pushed out the front of the pinion. I called him up , mind you this was almost 2 years after purchase and expl'd the situation. He knew what I was talking about and said it sounded like a bad seal around the
pinion itself. I pulled pinion out(first time I ever did that, not hard at all) shipped him the pinion itself, had it back w/i a week w/ new seals and crush sleeve. Installed it and no more leaks and it's been months now. I highly recommend him. Also tell him you want the clutches set up tight as possiblel... :nice: I've made probably 30-40 passes at the track w/ Drag Radials and MT ET Drags and love it...
 
You could always try to find a whole T-lok 9" rear end(or piece one together).

I pieced mine together and the whole rear end with a used 28spl 3.50 T-lok chunk(I think it's a two-spider), '57 narrow housing & axles, new axle bearings, new wheel studs, and new brake cylinders was probably less than $600. I have a press and installed the studs and bearings myself, though.

That was about two years ago; prices may have gone up since then.
 
I have the Powertrax Lock Right in my 8 inch rear now for over 3 years.
I love it. It locks in a TRUE posi when in a straght line and unlocks when making a turn. If you try a burn out when turning it will lock in and unlock and this can get a little squirly. I does wonderfull straight line burn outs, duel tire smoke all the time.

I updated my car Domain site, please check it out!
 
I have the Powertrax Lock Right in my 8 inch rear now for over 3 years.
I love it. It locks in a TRUE posi when in a straght line and unlocks when making a turn. If you try a burn out when turning it will lock in and unlock and this can get a little squirly. I does wonderfull straight line burn outs, duel tire smoke all the time.

I updated my car Domain site, please check it out!

I thought mine was cool at first too. They can perform well, but just do not seem to hold up when driven on the street alot. This is espacially true of a daily driver. I would never buy one again, unless I was building a drag car or mud truck. I don't think I would even put one in a weekend warrior hot rod. Lockers SUCK for the street. They don't ride smoothly either.

My truck and my friends car I mentioned before are just 2 examples of why not to get one. I have known many others that would not ever buy another locker again.

If your going to drive your car on the street just get a limited slip and foget about the locker.

Keep in mind that the limited slip units require a special additive or the clutchs will chatter and wear aout prematurely.
 
eeeeeaaassssyyy here fellas.....just everyone calm down....

I'm still looking at the locker, as its not a DD, and money is still an issue. I put on about 1K miles a year at the most....but eventually, if i go that route...I would do it the RIGHT way
 
Where do you get off putting me down for my opinions? I know how to drive a car with a damn locker in it. I just do not like them for cars that are driven on the street a lot. Lockers suck for cruising! They are noisy, and do not operate smoothly. That is all I was trying to say about them. I just figured that many people may not know what they are getting into with one. I have seen where they did not hold up for very many miles and know many people that do not prefer them for a street driven car.:notnice:
 
I got a center section like the previously mentioned one on Ebay. Its a 9 inch instead of an 8 inch. It is completely rebuilt with all new parts and it was about 500 dollars for the whole unit. I bought it from ebay seller r_mustangs.

Just a note: I never said that Lockers were crap. There are other applications where they are more suited and do just fine.
 
Where do you get off putting me down for my opinions? I know how to drive a car with a damn locker in it. I just do not like them for cars that are driven on the street a lot. Lockers suck for cruising! They are noisy, and do not operate smoothly. That is all I was trying to say about them. I just figured that many people may not know what they are getting into with one. I have seen where they did not hold up for very many miles and know many people that do not prefer them for a street driven car.:notnice:
Ok, My Bad, I was a little overboard with that comment.
I grew up with lockers and always loved them and all my cars where street driven but I must admit that this Lockright
locker is the first to throw me into a spin:eek: