thanks for the reminder, i need to check mine... it doesn't move side to side if i remember right but there is a clunk. I have solid bushings in all points of the arms except a poly set in the front of the LCA's..
I'm assuming that they are torque prevailing nuts because, as you said, this wasn't required from the factory. IIRC from my install, the nuts have a very slight oval shaped to them. This increases the friction btw the nut and bolt which also prevents the assembly from loosening. Because of this, they are commom on steering and suspension pieces (strut to spindle nuts for example). Typically, torque prevailing nuts are one time use.
I know I've read (somewhere) that it's recommended to replace the factory hardware when changing LCA/UCA's. Can't find it know though. Mine (and a friends) were installed using a torque wrench, both of them loosened up over time. This created a squeeking/creaking noise, some slight clunks, and the rear of the car felt a little loose. The problem returned at least three times. A re-torque fixed it everytime. The last time I used loc-tite and the problem has not returned.
Grn92LX,
If you have aftermarket LCA's along with a creaking/squeeking noise, I would do a quick re-torque first. My noise was so bad, I thought the bushing where worn out.
And what exactly are the correct torque specs for UCA's and LCA's? I just installed UPR adjustable LCA's and the car already had Hotchkis UCA's when I bought it. When I had lowered springs and Strange adjustable shocks installed a month and 1/2 ago, I helped the guy out and I'm certain he didn't use a torque wrench, just the impact air gun when he readjusted the UCA's for the right pignon angle. Seems the rear end has been more twitchy since this install. I read of 190 lbs torque specs in this forum but this seems very high and I fear breaking a bolt.