Rear howl, slipping rear end? Stock gears.

I have seen the differental pinion gears fail on several 8.8's most of them were F-150's I only seen them come to me on the hook when this happens so I can not tell how long it took to get to that point.

well who cares lets get back to whats important.. This guy need to have the rear end looked at and he needs to do some clutch tests.

BTW lets not get personal in this thread, I don't want to have to lock it
 
im definitly going to agree with blkhorse on this thread, i just rebuilt my tracklock 2 weeks ago. i was realy surprised at how easy it was, took me almost an hour and a half. the traclok is nothing more than an open diff thats preloaded w/friction plates and clucth packs, than pressure is optained by the s-clip. most shops add another clutch too lock them together more. but i didnt i just added thicker shims in the carrier. the only way the traclok can slip is if you removed the carrier shaft that locked the spider gears together dahhh... and if you took the fiction plates and clutch packs out than the side spider gears would never make contact with the top spider gears, and guess what the car wouldnt bugde, cause with out the spider gears the carrier would just spin. unless you have a spool or a mini spool, (oh by the way very bad idea for street apps.) that elimenates the spiders and the carrier alltogether and with what laser red said about it feels like m/t slipping... i dont think so cause when the traclok slips it becomes a 1 WHEEL WONDER yyyaaa...!!!
 
do these cars have traction control?(my 99 does) is it possible you are activating it? is there a green light coming on when this happens? it's a long shot but if I floor it in 2nd it will activate and feel exactly what your talking about in your first post
 
im definitly going to agree with blkhorse on this thread, i just rebuilt my tracklock 2 weeks ago. i was realy surprised at how easy it was, took me almost an hour and a half. the traclok is nothing more than an open diff thats preloaded w/friction plates and clucth packs, than pressure is optained by the s-clip. most shops add another clutch too lock them together more. but i didnt i just added thicker shims in the carrier. the only way the traclok can slip is if you removed the carrier shaft that locked the spider gears together dahhh... and if you took the fiction plates and clutch packs out than the side spider gears would never make contact with the top spider gears, and guess what the car wouldnt bugde, cause with out the spider gears the carrier would just spin. unless you have a spool or a mini spool, (oh by the way very bad idea for street apps.) that elimenates the spiders and the carrier alltogether and with what laser red said about it feels like m/t slipping... i dont think so cause when the traclok slips it becomes a 1 WHEEL WONDER yyyaaa...!!!

You are forgeting one thing, if the differental pinion gears or spyder gears as some call them are stripping each other then they are slipping and you can then have slippage in your rear end..

I have seen this happen before the spyder gears tear themselfs apart.

But you are right that the only difference between a open diff and a tract lok diff is the clutch packs and spring loaded tension that atempts to keep power going to both wheels.
 
svttech i see what your sayin but, he would here them coming apart, i no they sound awful mine did it at the track last year stock spyders dont like 3200 rpm launchs w/ slicks. but for blkhorse im bettin he does have trac/control but i think or guessing he would no what that feels like when it activates itself???
 
svttech i see what your sayin but, he would here them coming apart, i no they sound awful mine did it at the track last year stock spyders dont like 3200 rpm launchs w/ slicks. but for blkhorse im bettin he does have trac/control but i think or guessing he would no what that feels like when it activates itself???

I agree with you that the spyders stripping themselfs is not what is going on here, he would hear that or atleast I think he should hear it.

look several posts up and you will see that I said that I don't think mechanical failure of the rear end is what is causing his "powerloss" I think this powerloss is probally unrelated to the noise from the rear end.
 
I'm sorry but you are wrong. The primary means of friction between the splines on the axles and the splines on the inner side of the side gears are the splined steel discs. If you were to leave the splined steel discs out or leave the s-spring out your rear end would quickly be destroyed from the free spinning carrier case. That's just the way they work.

I do not have a picture of the Traction-Lok from my 2000 but am looking at a picture from a 1990 Mustang Shop Manual. It looks to me if the s spring is left out that the unit will act as a regular differential and if the s spring is strong enough it will lock the side gears from moving. What am I missing?