Rear Strut Install Problem...

S

Slow02StangGT

New Member

Jun 3, 2009

2

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0

Missouri

Jun 4, 2009

#1

• Jun 4, 2009

• #1

I must be retarded, that's all I can think.

I just installed new c/c plates, lowering springs, UCA, LCA, and new struts. Everything went fine until I lowered the jacks and went to tighten the top rear strut bolts (last step of this whole process). For some reason the top strut bolts stop tightening about an inch short and just spin. I've used an impact and it's not threaded enough to grab ahold of the top of the strut. I even took a grinder and cut a slit in the top to hold it with a screwdriver (prolly not the best idea, but I'm getting p***ed) and tried tightening it with a wrench with no luck.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

flstang65

10 Year Member

Dec 6, 2007

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SE Georgia

Jun 4, 2009

#2

• Jun 4, 2009

• #2

Can you post a pic of what you are talking about? I think I know what you are talking about, but I just want to make sure before I start suggesting ideas.

 

squeak93

15 Year Member

Jun 2, 2005

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Joplin, Missouri

Jun 4, 2009

#3

• Jun 4, 2009

• #3

What do you mean its not threaded enough?

IF you can't do it with an impact your pretty much hosed. The slot is a good idea (never worked for me but still).

Pics would help.

 

S

Slow02StangGT

New Member

Jun 3, 2009

2

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Missouri

Jun 4, 2009

#4

• Jun 4, 2009

• #4

Pic.....

Here's a pic of the top of one of the struts.

 

Attachments

• PIC_0053.webp

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squeak93

15 Year Member

Jun 2, 2005

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Joplin, Missouri

Jun 4, 2009

#5

• Jun 4, 2009

• #5

Can't tell much by the pic.... You might have to get a diff impact that has more torque... No reason it should go on pending the threads go down far enough and they are all clean.

 

Spreadman

two wheels

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Houston, TX

Jun 4, 2009

#6

• Jun 4, 2009

• #6

Pull off the top nut and take another picture. Looks like you have something else on the shaft that shouldn't be there. And you're not supposed to torque them down super tight. I think the settings are 17 ft lbs. Someone correct me.

 

J

jomull55

New Member

May 20, 2007

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lucas, OH

Jun 4, 2009

#7

• Jun 4, 2009

• #7

take a picture from underneath also

 

flstang65

10 Year Member

Dec 6, 2007

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SE Georgia

Jun 4, 2009

#8

• Jun 4, 2009

• #8

Are you sure you even have the right shocks?

 

mransr

Founding Member

Nov 3, 2000

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Riverside, SoCal

Jun 5, 2009

#9

• Jun 5, 2009

• #9

put the upper bushing through the lower bushing BEFORE you try and install the shock...that angled part of the upper bushing should be below the body

 

twogts4us

15 Year Member

Apr 1, 2004

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Dunedin, FL

Jun 5, 2009

#10

• Jun 5, 2009

• #10

flstang65 said:

Are you sure you even have the right shocks?

Click to expand...

That's what I'm wondering...and for the record, we call these rear dampers "shocks", not "struts". I hope you put the CC Plates on the front...along with the "struts".

 

Spreadman

two wheels

Founding Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Houston, TX

Jun 6, 2009

#11

• Jun 6, 2009

• #11

mransr said:

put the upper bushing through the lower bushing BEFORE you try and install the shock...that angled part of the upper bushing should be below the body

Click to expand...

What he said. I thought it looked strange.

 

BurningRubber

10 Year Member

Dec 6, 2004

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Jun 6, 2009

#12

• Jun 6, 2009

• #12

Yeah, struts up front, shocks and quad shocks in the back.

This may not end well, lol.

 

fast97gt

Active Member

Jan 2, 2007

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north carolina

Jun 7, 2009

#13

• Jun 7, 2009

• #13

ya i dont know, are you using all the new hardware that came with it? cause that nit looks like the factory stuff