rear trailing arm unsprung weight
- Thread starter baylor2010
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I have yet to take delivery of my 2006 performance white GT (it was built this Monday), but I have read a lot about Mustang specific arms and know a thing or two about suspension design.
Some of the more popular aftermarket arms include products from Metco, Steeda, BMR, and Spohn. In addition to tubular arms similar to those offered by BMR and Sohn, Metco and Steeda offer the billet arms as well. Although I do not know about the relative strengths of the aftermarket arms compared to one another, all of the products offered by these suppliers appear to be far more robustly constructed than the stock pieces. Also, the tubular pieces are lighter than the stock pieces. I am sure that the machined aluminum arms are even lighter than the tubular arms, but by how much I don't know. My suspicion is that the little weight difference is relatively insignificant on a street driven car. Not only are the tubular arms lighter than stock, as previously mentioned, they offer adjustability that billet arms do not, at least to my knowledge.
Having driven the 05+ only three times, none of which I did a standing start drop-clutch drag launch, I cannot comment on the stock wheel hop, though practically every post that I have read indicates that aftermarket lower control arms in combination with an aftermarket upper control arm eliminates wheel hop altogether.
By the way, I see that your screename is Baylor 2010. Are you in the Waco area?
Some of the more popular aftermarket arms include products from Metco, Steeda, BMR, and Spohn. In addition to tubular arms similar to those offered by BMR and Sohn, Metco and Steeda offer the billet arms as well. Although I do not know about the relative strengths of the aftermarket arms compared to one another, all of the products offered by these suppliers appear to be far more robustly constructed than the stock pieces. Also, the tubular pieces are lighter than the stock pieces. I am sure that the machined aluminum arms are even lighter than the tubular arms, but by how much I don't know. My suspicion is that the little weight difference is relatively insignificant on a street driven car. Not only are the tubular arms lighter than stock, as previously mentioned, they offer adjustability that billet arms do not, at least to my knowledge.
Having driven the 05+ only three times, none of which I did a standing start drop-clutch drag launch, I cannot comment on the stock wheel hop, though practically every post that I have read indicates that aftermarket lower control arms in combination with an aftermarket upper control arm eliminates wheel hop altogether.
By the way, I see that your screename is Baylor 2010. Are you in the Waco area?
Fourth Horseman
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- Dec 1, 2004
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Can't speak directly to the Mustang parts yet, but I have the Metco upper and lower control arms for my Marauder and they make a huge difference in keeping the axle planted during hard launches. They're machined out of billet aluminum and are much larger and stronger than the stock pieces and have bigger/better bushings as well. As to weight, even though they're made out of aluminum they've got to be heaver than the thin stamped steel stock pieces. In a lighter car like the Mustang I'd expect axle twist and hop would be a bigger issue than on the big heavy Marauder, so I'd think you'd get even more benefit from good after-market control arms. Especially if you're going with wider wheels and tires that will generate more grip. Worth the small increase in weight, IMO.
Here they are before installation, next to a keyboard and mouse to give you an idea of the size of these monsters.
Here they are before installation, next to a keyboard and mouse to give you an idea of the size of these monsters.
Though I have yet to see the weight comparasion for the Steeda and Metco pieces, the Spohn pieces are lighter than stock according to the Spohn website. If you look, they have a chart of weight of their products.
Adjustability v. non adjustability allows the owner to modify anti-squat and handling characteristics by changing the angle of the control arms in relation to the rear axle itself. This is more crucial in lowered cars, as you can imagine that by lowering a car via shorter springs, the angles of the control arm attachments change in relationship to the rear axle. By lowering the car, the control arms are positioned in relationship to the axle with angles different from the stock specs. Adjustability (and the addition of some aftermarket brackets sold by Metco, Steeda, or BMR) allows the control arms to be placed in a stock angular relationship to the axle, or at least a closer approximation to the stock configuration.
However, the benefits of adjustability probably won't be so useful for someone that has not lowered their car, or has not lowered their car significantly (like a 2 in drop).
I hope this is a somewhat clear explanation.
Adjustability v. non adjustability allows the owner to modify anti-squat and handling characteristics by changing the angle of the control arms in relation to the rear axle itself. This is more crucial in lowered cars, as you can imagine that by lowering a car via shorter springs, the angles of the control arm attachments change in relationship to the rear axle. By lowering the car, the control arms are positioned in relationship to the axle with angles different from the stock specs. Adjustability (and the addition of some aftermarket brackets sold by Metco, Steeda, or BMR) allows the control arms to be placed in a stock angular relationship to the axle, or at least a closer approximation to the stock configuration.
However, the benefits of adjustability probably won't be so useful for someone that has not lowered their car, or has not lowered their car significantly (like a 2 in drop).
I hope this is a somewhat clear explanation.
I don't have access to a 2006 Gt (yet) to make measurements on the axle to determine whether lowering springs drop the car enough to really screw up the geometry that has been calculated to factory ride height specs. Your best bet is probably to call Steeda direct and just ask what adjustability offers when combined with a mild lowering, and if it is indeed necessary.
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