I like the updated signature Jeff! Now to try and answer your question...
It's almost a bit of a trade off for the situation you're in. You want quality parts that perform well from the performance end of things but also want the BMW ride quality. To me it's a sacrifice for one or the other. It is possible that the heim joints in your older arms are worn and this could be causing some of the noise/vibration so I would look into this first. In my eyes, a good suspension is key and you are making a considerable amount of horse power now. I'm not sure that poly bushings would do you justice with all of your new found power. I know @Sharad will have a lot more to offer to this than I ever could. If it were me I would look to see that the heim joints are in good shape and leave the solid suspension in the car.
It's almost a bit of a trade off for the situation you're in. You want quality parts that perform well from the performance end of things but also want the BMW ride quality. To me it's a sacrifice for one or the other. It is possible that the heim joints in your older arms are worn and this could be causing some of the noise/vibration so I would look into this first. In my eyes, a good suspension is key and you are making a considerable amount of horse power now. I'm not sure that poly bushings would do you justice with all of your new found power. I know @Sharad will have a lot more to offer to this than I ever could. If it were me I would look to see that the heim joints are in good shape and leave the solid suspension in the car.
This is what I like for a street strip car at your power level. Keep the sphericals in your housing, but with these uppers:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-...table-upper-control-arm-urethane-bushing.html
And then I use the Pro Street adjustable lowers which also have one heim joint and one poly bushing on each arm:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-...e-lower-control-arm-kit-urethane-bushing.html
That way, you have a spherical on each arm to reduce bind, and a poly bushing on each arm to absorb some NVH. Win-win.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-...table-upper-control-arm-urethane-bushing.html
And then I use the Pro Street adjustable lowers which also have one heim joint and one poly bushing on each arm:
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-...e-lower-control-arm-kit-urethane-bushing.html
That way, you have a spherical on each arm to reduce bind, and a poly bushing on each arm to absorb some NVH. Win-win.
My car is all street, makes a bit more power and torque.
I had heim joint uppers with fresh stock rubber bushings on the rear side.
I hated it.
I put ford racing uppers back in. Just feels so much better and i didn't notice any negative effect in taking off or handling.
IMO, leave the heim joints for race cars.
These cars ride bad enough, no reason to make it worse.
If it's adjustability you want, steeda makes (or used to) a set of double adjustable uppers that instead of a heim joint has a poly bushing.
I had heim joint uppers with fresh stock rubber bushings on the rear side.
I hated it.
I put ford racing uppers back in. Just feels so much better and i didn't notice any negative effect in taking off or handling.
IMO, leave the heim joints for race cars.
These cars ride bad enough, no reason to make it worse.
If it's adjustability you want, steeda makes (or used to) a set of double adjustable uppers that instead of a heim joint has a poly bushing.
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I have had good luck with the UPR chrome moly with the urethane bushings for the the street even with the solid bushings.
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