Rebuilding a 8.8 rear questions

mob

the guy who hits on his mom
20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Oct 3, 2003
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Dallas, TX
Hey guys, I k now this stuff has probably been covered alot but i couldnt find any useful info searching, and ive tried asking around with some people i know but i was told they are definatly stangnet questions.

First let me say my siutation, Im gonna be running ET Streets. I know my trac lok and axles arent going to hold on. So I want to do a 31 spline Eaton posi, and 31 spline axles, i was thinking strange, or maybe superior i heard their cheap.

But first i was wondering, what are the c-clips? I heard if you eliminate them, the axle can fly out? It is a daily driver, but a weekend track car. So i want best performance at the track and i dont care about daily driving conditions but i dont want anything unsafe cause it IS driven daily. Would i be loosing alot of traction or performance with the c-clips still in?

And now the most important question. I just had my gears done, and ended up spending 700 bucks, for the gear install, trac lok rebuild, bearings, and completley getting all new brakes in the rear because they completley exploded (yes there still drums :bang:). Can i keep my gears i just put in? How much do you think install is gonna cost if i jut hand the car over and say put in the posi and axles? I really want to do this on a budget becauase im almost broke, but i need to get this done for the track, because i already have the slicks, just dont know how long their gonna last on the stock rear, i will not be launching hard, or running them hard, because i know if i break it at the track, i am SCREWED

Any anwsers will help as I am clueless when it comes to rearends. Thanks guys.
 
well the instal will be just as much as before because the ring gear is bolted on the carrier (your trac lok) and since it's a new carrier, they will have to make sure everything is whithin tolerance. i say just run the et streets, but be gentle (or don't run them at all if you're really worried) until you have the spare cash to get 31 splines, then run it hard and if you break something, you already have the cash to replace it.
 
C-clips are what keeps the axle in. You can run with or without them. If you go without them you will need either C-clip eliminators or 9"ends welded in. Since you street drive I'd opt for the 9" ends. People say they use the C-clip eliminators in the street without an issue of leaking (common issue with eliminators) but I actually chose to go with the 9" ends myself.

9" ends do the job C-clips do without the C-clip and without the leak prone C-clip eliminators.
 
How do i do the 9" ends?

I guess ill just save a bunch of money to install it all.

I guess my question was if i can use my old stuff, and i guess i can i just have to pay get it installed again.

And i was looking on stange, i only see c-clip eliminator axles. Anyone know where i can get axles that keep the c-clip for 31spline and are good for drums? And if i go with the 9" ends do i get the c-clip eliminator axles? or regular? Thanks
 
mob said:
How do i do the 9" ends?

I guess ill just save a bunch of money to install it all.

I guess my question was if i can use my old stuff, and i guess i can i just have to pay get it installed again.

And i was looking on stange, i only see c-clip eliminator axles. Anyone know where i can get axles that keep the c-clip for 31spline and are good for drums? And if i go with the 9" ends do i get the c-clip eliminator axles? or regular? Thanks

9" Ends need to be welded on...
You can keep your old stuff
Strange, Moser , etc. should both have c-clip axles for drums
If you go with 9" ends you get c-clip eliminator axles.
 
How much would it cost to get them? Do i need to find a 9" rear end? or does someone sell them? Anyone know about how much they would cost? and how much itd cost to weld on?

How much worse is it with c-clips? Why would it be worth taking them off? I still dont understrand that, if its too much money, or not worth the gain, i think ill just go with the c-clip axles if they sell them...
 
mob said:
How much would it cost to get them? Do i need to find a 9" rear end? or does someone sell them? Anyone know about how much they would cost? and how much itd cost to weld on?

How much worse is it with c-clips? Why would it be worth taking them off? I still dont understrand that, if its too much money, or not worth the gain, i think ill just go with the c-clip axles if they sell them...

Ends are about $80 from Moser. I was charged approximately 125-150 to weld them on....The advantage of the 9" ends over the C-clip is that C-clips can break whereas the 9" end does not have that concern. The more power and stickier the tire, the more prone to breakage.
 
kk thanks man, ill check it out

Another question is, will rim and tire fitment change? the slicks are gonna be 10" wide wheels, and 11.5 wide tires, i know its gonna be a very tight fit with the modifications i already have to do, is that space going to get smaller? or bigger? or stay the same with the ends?
 
mob said:
kk thanks man, ill check it out

Another question is, will rim and tire fitment change? the slicks are gonna be 10" wide wheels, and 11.5 wide tires, i know its gonna be a very tight fit with the modifications i already have to do, is that space going to get smaller? or bigger? or stay the same with the ends?

Should stay the same and not change track width at all. Mine didn't.
 
New question! Ive been doing some more research and found out i can get a 31 spline trac lock from a explorer or f150. What years did they come in? How hard are they to take out if i go to a junkyard?

And the main question, i know the 31 spline trac locks are strong but will they hold up with slicks? The engine is stock with a cam, and i have gears so i wont be making that much torque. I would have gone with mt dr's but i go the draglite wheels and mt et streets on them for $150 so i couldnt pass on that offer.

For now ill just run them on my stock trac lock cause i had all the clutches replaced and rebuilt. So it should last for a while till i have the money to buy the 31 spline stuff.

Oh yea and if i get a used 31 spline trac lock how do i rebuild it? I heard you pack extra clutches in there? how do i tell a shop to do that? Im sure Jake Lomatta would know what to do but should i buy 2 sets of trac lock rebuilds? And is the trac lock rebuild the same as the 28 spline? Can i get them same kit from 50resto? or will i have to find them somewhere else for the 31? thanks, sorry its long
 
lwtchlx said:
save urself the head ache of rebuilding a limited slip and throw a detroit locker in there($500-$600 for 31 spline) and sell ur 28 spline trac loc to some ranger owner or some dumb kid.


Im not getting a locker ive decided that, and id rather spend 200 bucks on a junkyard 31 spline trac lok, then $600 bucks that i dont have on a locker
 
well if u get one out of a junkyard and the case is cracked then u just wasted ur $200 not to mention its gonna be another $200 to get 2 carrier bearings 3 qts of 70w140 gear lube and fiction modifier to install it and then u got the labor oh and didnt u wanna double pack the clutches well thats even more money so u gonna spend around $600 neway. its not fun to half ass something and have to fix it again. u can get a new auburn pro limited slip for around $400(they have a warrenty most new stuff has that). and ur gonna need fiction modifier again alone w/ 3 qts of gear lube and 2 carrier bearings to install it. i put a factory limited slip i got from a guy at work w/ double pack clutches in my 05 ranger and thats all the stuff i had to buy and i get a discount at the ford dealership i work at and it came to to be $176. i got the limited slip for free but if were goin to buy something it would deff be a locker. u just gotta be careful pulling stuff out of a junkyard. ive seen the eaton lockers that come in GM trucks cracked in half when i help a buddy of mine put gears in his Z71
 
lwtchlx said:
well if u get one out of a junkyard and the case is cracked then u just wasted ur $200 not to mention its gonna be another $200 to get 2 carrier bearings 3 qts of 70w140 gear lube and fiction modifier to install it and then u got the labor oh and didnt u wanna double pack the clutches well thats even more money so u gonna spend around $600 neway. its not fun to half ass something and have to fix it again. u can get a new auburn pro limited slip for around $400(they have a warrenty most new stuff has that). and ur gonna need fiction modifier again alone w/ 3 qts of gear lube and 2 carrier bearings to install it. i put a factory limited slip i got from a guy at work w/ double pack clutches in my 05 ranger and thats all the stuff i had to buy and i get a discount at the ford dealership i work at and it came to to be $176. i got the limited slip for free but if were goin to buy something it would deff be a locker. u just gotta be careful pulling stuff out of a junkyard. ive seen the eaton lockers that come in GM trucks cracked in half when i help a buddy of mine put gears in his Z71


Um dude, im going myself to pull it out, if its cracked i wont get it.. second all my bearings have less then 300 miles on them, i can reuse them, and if i cant ill just buy new ones. And where are you getting 200 bucks from? I got the master bearing kit from 50resto for 85 bucks.. the clutch pack cost 40 bucks each. Lets say i got the trac lok for 150 bucks, i get the cheap bearing kit that comes with the carrier bearings for 60 bucks, and 2 clutch pack kits. Thats about 300 bucks. Im not getting an Auburn cause you cant rebuild it so lets say i get a Eaton, thats 400 bucks.. And your telling me to get a locker for 600 bucks? Im not doing stuff half assed, are you telling me the people that do junkyard $400 5 lug conversions did it half assed, because they didnt buy the $1300 cobra kit form 50resto? The 31 spline trac lock is all i need, its strong, itll be rebuilt with the clutches so itll last, and it will hold up with the slicks, either way itll be 20x better then what i have in there right now, and when your in highschool and make $6.15 an hour its kinda hard to save up 600 bucks to dump on a diff. And idk why youd recomend the aubrun diffs. all the stores i heard about people breaking them, and then you cant rebuild them, why would i get a diff for 400 bucks to just toss it when it breaks when i could rebuild the 31 explorer trac lock. And isnt trac lock the ford version of posi? so if the 31 spline eaton posi and 31 spline explorer trac lok work in pretty much the same way, why would it be half assed? Because its not new out of the box? And what are the odds of a late model daily driver explorer having a cracked case?

On the side note, i will admit, i get the urge to drop a gear and fly around a turn, i like turns, so i am NOT getting a locker. Its done. dont try to convinse me to get one cause im not.


oh yea and gear lube cost 30 bucks..


Its ok though, cause your just trying to show me the worst scenerio, and im just trying to show you the best scenerio, in the end its gonna come down to how much i want to spend, and what I want to get, all i wanted to know what if the 31spline explorer would hold up the slicks, but ill just find out myself, and tell the next moron when he comes and asks :D
 
u wanna stay limited slip double pack the clutches on a 31 spline trac lock the link above says u can get one unshipped $200. since ur changing the carrier uve got to replace the carrier bearings. when u go into a junkyard look for an explorer w/ disc rear brakes they are 31 spline also nab the axles have them shortened. might seem costly but doing this acutally makes them stronger b/c when they shorten an axle shaft they remove the part in which necks down to go into the carrier. im also in highschool and i only make $6 an hr at a ford dealership handling all the trade-ins. you can do this kinda stuff it just takes you longer. best way to get it done faster is do the labor yourself. also then if it breaks you know how to fix it.