Rebuilding my 1989 mustang GT

Hey guys I’m want to rebuild my 1989 Mustang GT the car has 190k miles on it I’m wanting to do a complete rebuild but I don’t know all the parts I need I have already ordered these kits


What else do I need to have a complete rebuild kit also can I put any connecting rods with those pistons I also plan on getting GT40p heads any suggestions for a cheap intake? Looking into some shorty headers also looking for a clutch suggestion cause since the motor is getting built might as well do the clutch what kind of injectors should I go with something good but won’t hurt the bank also maybe a short shifter any recommendations? I’m looking to turn the car into something I can cruise but can go to the strip and make a pass not every weekend but once in a while also what type of tires should I get I have the stock turbine rims would like to put some MTS or Hoosiers on it can I add that kind of tire to that rim? Sorry for all the questions but I don’t know motors much but am trying to learn as I go thanks in advance for your replies
 
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Welcome Chris thats a cool kit that I dont know anything about. I have a stock motor , and would consider that very complete set up. Would someone who knows tell us if it would be a good one . All those things your speaking of have to be researched here on StangNet by going over every item you are considering. Buying one or two pieces at a time until you get it right. Unless of coarse you got the big money to buy it all at together. Then I would call Summit and talk to a representative. Read on brother of the endless ideas here on StangNet , and enjoy your 89.
 
If you've already ordered that cam you'll need to return it. Your 5.0 doesn't have a flat tappets, they're roller lifters. And that kit looks to be a complete kit, but until you have your block checked by a qualified machinist you really won't know what size pistons you'll need. You're best off waiting until you know if your engine needs an overbore or not. Gt40P heads aren't a bad starting point for something fairly mild. And I think a good manifold to start with would be the Explorer GT40 intake that, if you're lucky enough to find a complete engine, you'd be able to pull all of that in one shot. The heads will definitely need gone through by a qualified machinist as well, and they'll need upgraded valve springs to go with whatever cam you end up going with. Gt40P heads generally require a specific set of headers, so those with experience with P heads can give you more information than I can. I think that's a good starting point and will yield you the main components. Once your engine has been gone through and the rotating assembly is ready, then most here can jump in and give their 2 cents on cam selection and injector size. Good luck!
 
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Not only is that cam kit a flat tappet, the firing order is completely wrong. You need the 351w/5.0 HO firing order.

If you’re taking the block to be go a through, you might as well get .030 over pistons as well. There’s no guarantee the std bore diameter would be ideal, but you can kind of figure an overbore would be fine.

Also, the main and rod bearings are standard. While there’s a good chance the are in good shape, it’s also good to confirm before ordering to be sure they won’t need to be ground or resized.
 
I know nothing about the top end so could one or two of you guys put a camshaft kit on this post. I go thru them dreaming of the day. Others do also Im sure , but we dont know the specific kit without calling the company. Just a medium kit for a street car with one hundred thousand miles. Also CarMicheal put a picture of your doghouse lol. I read his build posts and there is lots of words and small pics, but I love the car . I want to see that beautiful front end......I will mess this up so I dont have it on his post.
 
I know nothing about the top end so could one or two of you guys put a camshaft kit on this post. I go thru them dreaming of the day. Others do also Im sure , but we dont know the specific kit without calling the company. Just a medium kit for a street car with one hundred thousand miles.

Going with GT40 heads since their flow starts topping out around the .400-.500 lift numbers, and going with an off the shelf cam, I'd consider this one from Lunati.


It's a dual pattern, which mean the lift and/or duration favors either the intake or exhaust. In the case of a SBF, the exhaust needs a little more assistance than the intake. As you can see from the specs of this particular cam the exhaust has a little more of both duration and lift to help compensate for the lower flow inherent to SBF heads. And the lift numbers on this particular cam will be right in that ballpark that those heads can flow. Lift numbers that are any bigger are basically a waste with the GT40 heads and you'd want to upgrade to something with better flow numbers that max out at a higher lift.

To get a better idea if you're interested in learning a little more.....


View: https://youtu.be/JPAeepqrY-0
 
I've done the full porting on 2 sets of "P" heads. They are are ok... At a minimum, you should port the short side exhaust for more flow, your going to have to replace the valve springs, may as well replace the ex. valves, they are usually worn.....Better yet, buy a set of aluminum ones. I just got a set of the Skip White ones from Ebay after a lot research (These look to be very well made) for our next project. I won't do any more "P" heads. I'ts not worth the labor, weight, potential warps, etc. The "E" cam is fine for most of us poor folks. My son just built a 3.73 posi for our play car ("Miss Piggy" ).. Fresh 302, ported "P" heads, w/ E cam , 2 1/2" exhaust, T5 clean up.....The 3.73's woke her up!!