Rebulding Tranny. Best Flywheel/Clutch For MY Car
- Thread starter Joey5.0
- Start date
tunedin302 said:Yes they will bolt right up (assuming the BBK jig isn't off). The FMS ceramic shorties w/ 1 piece flange is the better way to go but they will cost more $$. I would also invest in some good gaskets (NOT BBK) and ARP locking header bolts while there (~ $60-70). But that's just me
What are the Advantages and Disagvantages of Longtubes?
I heard there a pain in the ass to install, but i just figured that my transmission is out, so they shouldnt be that hard at all really....right?
Also heard the creat more power than Shortys but less torque....Anyone help me out. A local buddy has Brand New BBK Longtubes and Off road X that i might get if i get possitive comments on them over my current Shortys and h pipe.
Longtubes will create more torque over shorties. They'll also give you a better exhaust tone. Quieter at idle/cruise and louder at wide open throttle.
With the tranny out, the bellhousing/starter will not be an issue, and you may have to remove the passenger side motor mount and lift the engine (with a jack or crane) to get the header in there.
With the tranny out, the bellhousing/starter will not be an issue, and you may have to remove the passenger side motor mount and lift the engine (with a jack or crane) to get the header in there.
LTs are nice. The BBK LTs were a great piece and fit around my Mcleod scattershield and TKO tranny. I had a lift to slide one side through the bottom. I forget which now, it's been so long. I believe I had to move the starter out of the way, but I can't really remember anymore. I do remember, though, that I had to grind on the scattershield a bit and install it before the longtubes. The tranny is nice to have outta the way for the first LT, but you need to install it before the second one is installed. I'm not sure if it was just because the TKO was so bulky, though.
Good luck in whatever you decide. You'll be happy either way.
Good luck in whatever you decide. You'll be happy either way.
Based off my experience.
Clutch
I have used the FRPP King Cobra, AFM Super King Cobra, Centerforce Dual friction, and currently have a Spec 2+ in my 93 Cobra. ( I also run the T-5z tranny)
My King Cobra clutch lasted around 50k miles behind a 295rwhp/315rwtq combo and 413/560 on a 150 shot before the disc came apart at the track. The AFM clutch kit lasted until I put the blower on my car a few months later (525rwhp/534tq). Inspection showed it was slipping. CF dual friction has the most awesome pedal feel of any clutch out there. Feels like you are driving a honda but with the grip of a Spec clutch but it still wasn't enought to hold my power.
The Spec 2+ is holding fine in my car now. Very nice engage/disengage and holding my power level very nicely.
So for your combo i would recommend the Spec stage 1
Flywheels
There are a lot of debates about aluminum vs. steel. We have installed some aluminum flywheels in some mod motor cars (4.6 2v) and you could not tell a difference during normal- mild aggressive driving between the two other than the aluminum revs a little faster.
Something to note that I didn't see anyone explain to you. The 50oz and 28oz specs refer to the balance of your engine. So you cannot mix and match these parts. If your engine is OEM balanced 302 then you must use a 50oz imbance flywheel. If you are running a custom rebuild or certain stroker kits, then it can be a 28oz imbalance or a 50oz imbalance.
Clutch
I have used the FRPP King Cobra, AFM Super King Cobra, Centerforce Dual friction, and currently have a Spec 2+ in my 93 Cobra. ( I also run the T-5z tranny)
My King Cobra clutch lasted around 50k miles behind a 295rwhp/315rwtq combo and 413/560 on a 150 shot before the disc came apart at the track. The AFM clutch kit lasted until I put the blower on my car a few months later (525rwhp/534tq). Inspection showed it was slipping. CF dual friction has the most awesome pedal feel of any clutch out there. Feels like you are driving a honda but with the grip of a Spec clutch but it still wasn't enought to hold my power.
The Spec 2+ is holding fine in my car now. Very nice engage/disengage and holding my power level very nicely.
So for your combo i would recommend the Spec stage 1
Flywheels
There are a lot of debates about aluminum vs. steel. We have installed some aluminum flywheels in some mod motor cars (4.6 2v) and you could not tell a difference during normal- mild aggressive driving between the two other than the aluminum revs a little faster.
Something to note that I didn't see anyone explain to you. The 50oz and 28oz specs refer to the balance of your engine. So you cannot mix and match these parts. If your engine is OEM balanced 302 then you must use a 50oz imbance flywheel. If you are running a custom rebuild or certain stroker kits, then it can be a 28oz imbalance or a 50oz imbalance.
ps. my King Cobra held up for many many miles behind a twin turbo 302 making around 450 rwhp.
Chris
Chris
New Tremec is in, King Cobra Clutch, New Tob, Rear Mail Seal, BBK Shortys, BBK Off Road-H, Smog Delete, Re-surfaced Flywheel, New Belt, And some other stuff here in there. Started the car everything sounded great, drives good to. Gotta break it in. Headers and H sound so awesome. I still need to re-tighten the exhaust, torque the driveshaft bolts to correct specs, and for some reason the clutch inspection plate will not go back on. I also need to know how to adjust the clutch cause its really loose than before.
Id like to thank all the guys on this forum that answered my questions and helped me out.
Id like to thank all the guys on this forum that answered my questions and helped me out.
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