Recommendations for '65 steering wheel

180 Out

Member
Jul 23, 2005
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I put one of these -- Grant model 968, 15" diameter -- on my kids' '65:

968incar.jpg


It tore up the turn signal cam, so I took it out and put the OE 3-spoke back in. I'm not liking the skinny large diameter wheel at all. So what fat-rimmed wheels are people running that do not destroy the turn signal? 14" would be the minimum, since this is a non-PS car.

Alternatively, does anyone have a tip for making the wheel I already have work with the turn signal stuff?
 
It tore up the turn signal cam, so I took it out and put the OE 3-spoke back in.

+1

I'm waiting 'til I go to a power R&P someday, and then I might go back to my Grant.

It's a 14" also and with a V8 sitting on 225 front tires, it definitely was making it difficult to steer. But when I investigated the grinding noise, I went back to the stock wheel.

What is the stock diameter anyway? I thought it was 15", but it must be more like 16"

I wanted the extra room the smaller diameter wheel provides, 'cause I have '88 mustang seats that are a tad taller.
 
I put one of these -- Grant model 968, 15" diameter -- on my kids' '65:

968incar.jpg


It tore up the turn signal cam, so I took it out and put the OE 3-spoke back in. I'm not liking the skinny large diameter wheel at all. So what fat-rimmed wheels are people running that do not destroy the turn signal? 14" would be the minimum, since this is a non-PS car.

Alternatively, does anyone have a tip for making the wheel I already have work with the turn signal stuff?

I thought about welding some "bumps" on the Moto Lita boss to turn off the turn signal.

Do you know by chance what tach and clock are in the rally-pac pic? The housing looks original, but the tach is aftermarket. Something I'm looking for right now.
 
Tim65GT: I believe the stock wheel in a '65-'66 is 16". Regarding steering effort, I just added a set of Opentracker roller spring perches and a Baer bump steer kit to my kids' '65. I don't know which is responsible, or if both contribute something, but the steering effort is way down. It's so light that it feels loose at freeway speeds. This is why I'm going back to a smaller wheel. I put up with the city bus feel of the OE unit to keep parking lot effort low for my teenage girls. But I think they can handle a smaller rim now.

You might want to try some rollerized spring perches before you go R&P; I'll bet you'll find less effort. I have read posts by guys who have the Opentracker units that say this is true. It must have something to do with the geometry. I know when you steer the wheels the camber changes. This implies that the upper control arm is moving up and down a little. For the UCA to move, you either have to work against the rubber bushing in the OE spring perch, or against a roller bearing in the Opentracker unit.

fasttback: I pulled that pic off the Grant web site. Looks like someone's restomod, including the dreaded Custom Autosound head unit.

'65 fastback: I like that steering wheel! I'm thinking this LeCarra leather wrapped, $234 for this kit at Mustang Depot of Las Vegas:

ml-mk4-kit.webp


or a Grant one like yours. What is the model number?
 

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After an aluminum radiator, the suspension is on my list of upgrades starting with subframe conectors.

I've been reading the benefits of roller spring perches from other members, but I didn't realize it decreased steering effort.

I was going to upgrade the front suspension with them and also hinge type adjustable strut rods.
 
BullittStangV8 - I bent my turnsignal lever slightly to get it positioned the way I want it and keep it clear of my knuckles.

180 Out - Mine is a Grant, Collectors Edition - #1130 - http://www.grantproducts.com/default.html

Tim65GT - I, also, have the OpenTracker roller spring perches and Baer Tracker kit and it made a very noticable improvement to the steering effort of my TCP manual Rack and pinion.

Tim
 
Tim65GT, was this grinding noise caused by the spring loaded horn contacts shorting out? I have this problem with my Shelby wheel and haven't found a way around it yet.

Not sure what could be causing your problem. Usually, if the horn contacts short out the horn goes off. Unless the hot contact is shorting to ground, then the fuse would blow. Perhaps your ring is not spaced right? :shrug:

On mine, it was the horn cancelling spring ring. I took it off the stock wheel and put it on the Grant horn contact hub. Apparently the two tangs (arrow) were sticking too far in and were rubbing on the bearing retainer plate (next pic arrow). I caught it before it did too much damage. (The pictures are before the damage)

Instead of fixing it, (trimming the tangs) I went back to the larger stock wheel mainly because my daughter was having a hard time parking the car. Now she has her own car, but I’ll probably wait until I upgrade the suspension before I try the Grant wheel again. I also have a ’68 collapsible column I want to put in.

hornctt.webp


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Your issue is different than mine then. In your 2nd pic you can see the two horn contacts on the right. On mine, the one with the yellow wire doesn't have any insulation on the connector. When the wheel is on those two leads get pushed down thru a cutout in the barrel. I'm pretty sure it is shorting out right there. Electrical tape didn't work so I guess I'll have to remove some metal.
 
180 Out--Just an FYI: If you like the LeCarra wheel, there is also a Grant wheel that looks almost exactly the same as the LeCarra pic you posted above. It's model #739--the hollow center of the spokes extends a little further out than on the Grant #1130 pictured. I'm not sure if the grip is leather or not.

Also, in the new Summit catalog, the Grant Collector's Edition GRT-1130 pictured above is $122.95 (vs. $208 from Grant). The Grant GRT-739 (like the LeCarra pictured above, not sure if leather grip) is $109.88. Both are 14".