Relocating battery to trunk

Monsterbishi · Feb 18, 2006

YEAHLOH95 said:
it will not hurt handling it will help equal the front to rear weight bias

There's a right way to do things, and a wrong way, any mass you place behind the rear axle not only shifts the weight balance, but it also causes a shift in the COG much further back when under cornering, it's like lobbing a hammer - the head will always lead in and hit first.

Stang D · Feb 18, 2006

YEAHLOH95 said:
it will not hurt handling it will help equal the front to rear weight bias

I agree Troy. The closer you get to 50/50 weight bias, the better off you generally are. That's a principle of suspension tuning. Moving 1% of the cars total weight rearward is probably not going to a huge difference in handling in any event. Nothing you couldn't tune out anyway.

Eric94GTvert · Feb 19, 2006

Monsterbishi said:
There's a right way to do things, and a wrong way, any mass you place behind the rear axle not only shifts the weight balance, but it also causes a shift in the COG much further back when under cornering, it's like lobbing a hammer - the head will always lead in and hit first.

You should send an email to Maximum Motorsports and inform them of this information.

YEAHLOH95 · Feb 19, 2006

moving it to the rear is twice as good as just removing weight ,because you are adding weight to the rear too ..imagine a see-saw and you take 40lbs off one end and add it to the other ....

Rootus · Feb 19, 2006

It probably doesn't hurt, but I definitely wouldn't risk the hassle of moving the battery if my only goal was to improve the weight balance. Two of the best handling cars I can think of have a 60/40 front/rear weight distribution .

Dave

Monsterbishi · Feb 19, 2006

Eric94GTvert said:
You should send an email to Maximum Motorsports and inform them of this information.

Shouldn't need to, it's car construction in it's most basic form, which is why all top sports cars/supercars/motorcycles/ have as much of the vehicles mass between the axles/wheels

Just because everyone you know does it one way, doesn't make it the right way.

Dan95-5.0 · Feb 19, 2006

all right guys, time out everybody back to your corner LOL

back to my question. anybody got an item list????

SWYZ721 · Feb 19, 2006

It will hurt handling if it is BEHIND the rear axle. If it is OVER or in FRONT of the rear axle, than it is ok.

Monsterbishi · Feb 20, 2006

SWYZ721 said:
It will hurt handling if it is BEHIND the rear axle. If it is OVER or in FRONT of the rear axle, than it is ok.

Pretty much, in a ideal world, everything would be stacked right in the middle of the car, even more so if it all sat below the level of the center of the wheels

Anyway, back on topic, the parts you need,

1. Battery box + way to secure it down to the body, check with your local dragstrip, most require a metal plate in the bottom of the box which spreads the load of the bolt head.

2. Welder cable/2-4g audio wire/etc - to establish how much, use some string led through the path you want it to follow.

3. P-clips/Ahesive Cable tie achors & cable ties - depending on your local law, the lead will need to be secured to the body at certain intervals, usually every 10-12"

4. Battery Terminals

5. Inline Fuse depending on what the rated capacity of your alternator is, go 10-20amps over for the fuse selection.

That's about it really.

Eric94GTvert · Feb 20, 2006

Dan 95-5.0
Pm sent although these guys have it covered.

Good luck!

Stang D · Feb 20, 2006

Make certain you use heavy enough cable for your application. A 347 with 11-1 compression needs far more amperage than a 302 at 8-1. Voltage drop is really hard on starter life. I burned a few up in short order, many moons ago. Be nice to just go huge on the cable and be done with it, but the stuff is very heavy and defeats some of the purpose of relocating in the first place.

Dan95-5.0 · May 20, 2006

ok heres the deal...

i'm changing the fuel pump on my car this long weekend and decided now is the best time to put the battery in the trunk.

i got everything i need except for the 2ga cable to run from the battery to the alternator. i cant find this. where i bought my 1/o cable from, they said they ran out.

heres the stuff i got:
32ft of 1/o cable
42ft wire loom
1/o and 2ga eyerings
threaded rod
master switch
inline fuse holder
150 amp fuse

my question is, will it be ok to run all the positive and ground cables and install the master switch and leave the alternator as is for now until i get my hands on some 2ga. i know that if i throw the switch off, it will still run because of the alternator but i'm not going to the track yet till i get the 2ga installed.

i thought it over and i think it will be ok.

95strokerPSU · May 20, 2006

I'm still using the factory sized alt to dist block cable. I have a problem with charging but I don't think it's related. You should be ok for the time being but will probably want to change it out.

Dan95-5.0 · May 21, 2006

well after today, i'll be able to find some 2ga cable.

got the tank lowered in the middle of the day and found out that the filler neck to gas tank seal was worse then i thought.

i looked around and the only place to get it is straight from ford. there not opened till tuesday and its not in stock either. it will take 1 day to ship in. that means i'm SOL till next week.

got another question. what will happen if i run a lower continuous amp rated master switch? what will this cause?

Relocating battery to trunk

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