Removing a stuck rear wheel?

lparsons

20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
May 24, 2004
198
1
18
Upstate New York
I was changing my tires today - finally taking off the snow tires - and I can't get my rear driver's side wheel off! Yes, all five lugs are off. I've raised and lowered the car a few times now, and I released the parking brake and have the tranny in neutral. I can turn the wheel by hand (barely).
Any tricks? I already tried dousing it with WD-40. I then let that dry and I'm trying some gentle heat.
:bang:
 
Why can you barely turn the wheel by hand?

I agree that a little agitation might be needed to get that thing off.

Good luck.
 
Lay under the car and kick that thing. Make absolutely sure you have that thing steady and level on some jackstands first, or you WILL get crushed by the car. It's because of the dielectric process between the aluminum wheel and the cast iron brake rotor/hub. Just needs some persuasion to come off is all. Been there, done that...
 
Why can you barely turn the wheel by hand?
When I originally posted this, I had only the rear driver's side wheel off the ground. I suspect that the differential didn't like that a whole lot, and was the reason why it was so hard to turn the wheel by hand.
I then placed a jackstand under the axle, and lifted the other rear wheel. (placed jackstand under axle near that wheel as well). Now the wheels turn a lot better :) Not exceptionally well, but much better.

I agree that a little agitation might be needed to get that thing off.

Good luck.
I guess I wasn't sure what would be safe to hit. I have been pounding on the tire itself with a 1lb mallet. I've tried the rim as well. Still no go.

If it makes a difference, these rims are steel, not alloy or aluminum. I had my winter tires mounted on cheap steel rims when I bought them, so that I could do the tire changes myself rather than pay for mounting / balancing twice a year.

I'll keep pounding with the mallet. Neither rim has shown signs yet of being persuaded ...
 
Both being steel, I'd say they rusted together. Same result as the dielectric process where they want to bond together, but a different process to accomplish the same goal. Should take the same persuasion to remove it.
 
Both being steel, I'd say they rusted together. Same result as the dielectric process where they want to bond together, but a different process to accomplish the same goal. Should take the same persuasion to remove it.

I was suspecting rust as the culprit, being as we actually had winter here in upstate new york this year (as opposed to last winter, which was a grand total of maybe 16 inches of snow). Damn salt trucks get the better of me every time...
 
did you try what I suggested?

sit perpendicular to the wheel, lay down on your back, and place your feet on the sidewalls on either side of the wheel. Kick at the tire in a rhythmic pattern, one foot after the other. If you do it in time, (you're not a musician are you? heh) the vibration should force the wheel off
 
did you try what I suggested?

sit perpendicular to the wheel, lay down on your back, and place your feet on the sidewalls on either side of the wheel. Kick at the tire in a rhythmic pattern, one foot after the other. If you do it in time, (you're not a musician are you? heh) the vibration should force the wheel off

Nope, I'm not a musician :) I did put some leg power into it, though. However, I didn't have enough room in my garage to lay down perpendicular to the car (I'm 6'3"). I eventually did most of the work with my 16oz rubber mallet. I found that hitting it many times in one spot on the tire, then doing the same 180 degrees away, and repeating many times, was effective. Eventually the wheels were coaxed off.

Why can you barely turn the wheel by hand?
Follow up on this question - I suspect I may have a warped rotor on the rear driver's. Turning that one with the wheel off was much more difficult than the other. And it seemed to build resesitance to turning at about the same spot with each revolution. And I made the mistake of trusting complete morons with my brakes a year and a half ago when I could get the job done myself. - http://parsonsfamily.boldlygoingnowhere.org/~lparsons/bad_businesses/kost_tire.html
 
If not mentioned, it's not a bad idea to use a little neverseize between the inside of the wheel and the hub (upon reinstallation).

Good luck.
 
also if the car is in gear its going to be a pain in the butt to turn the rear wheels


i recomend hitting/kicking the wheel, switch up sides too. dont always hit in the same spot.
 
Like mentioned, sit on your butt and kick the wheel with the bottom of your foot, it'll break loose alot faster than using the hammer.

Mine are always rusted on, I'm pretty sure cuz its steel on steel, and we get alot of road salt up here in detroit. I've tried anti-seize, motor oil, and gear oil on the hub, and it still rusts up tight after a full winter.