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Removing camshaft

  • Thread starter Thread starter raleighstang65
  • Start date Start date Jul 23, 2007
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raleighstang65

Member
Jan 19, 2007
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Wake Forest, NC
Jul 23, 2007
#1
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #1
I removed the lifters, timing chain and camshaft retainer. I can't get the old camshaft out now. It doesn't even budge. I can turn it. The engine ran fine when I took it apart to install a new cam. Is there something else that needs to be removed for the cam to come out or is there something possibly wrong? I didn't want to pry it out and scratch a bearing. The engine is still in the car.
 

Stanger007

Founding Member
Sep 26, 2001
2,015
2
46
Baton Rouge, LA
Jul 23, 2007
#2
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #2
Sounds like you got everything that holds it in.

I have good luck screwing one of the waterpump or timing cover bolts into the cam and using it as a handle to carefully work it over the cam bearings.

Wes
 
R

ron67fb

Founding Member
Aug 3, 2001
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36
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 23, 2007
#3
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #3
What are you using to take it out with? There are a number of bearings all with ridges due to wear and old oil so it will not slide out easily. Use a long bolt like Wes said, or bolt on the cam gear and use that as a handle to twist and pull on the cam. It'll "pop" out once it clears the ridges and you might hear it bang up against the bearings but don't worry too much about it.
 

raleighstang65

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Jan 19, 2007
170
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Wake Forest, NC
Jul 23, 2007
#4
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #4
I was using the short bolt that went through the cam gear/timing chain gear. So it's normal to feel some resistance at first? And it's alright to turn it while I'm pulling it out? First cam swap, I feel confident that I can do it, just don't want to mess anything up in the process.
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
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17
Danb., CT
Jul 23, 2007
#5
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #5
Aren't the lifters pushing town on the lobes of the camshaft from the valve spring. Wouldn't this extra tension be preventing you from removing the cam? How 'bout removing the valve covers and lossening the rockers to relieve some of the stress that's on the cam lobes.
 
F

FLStang

New Member
Apr 12, 2007
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0
Central FL
Jul 23, 2007
#6
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #6
geostang351 said:
Aren't the lifters pushing town on the lobes of the camshaft from the valve spring. Wouldn't this extra tension be preventing you from removing the cam? How 'bout removing the valve covers and lossening the rockers to relieve some of the stress that's on the cam lobes.
Click to expand...



he said he removed the lifters....
 

Stanger007

Founding Member
Sep 26, 2001
2,015
2
46
Baton Rouge, LA
Jul 23, 2007
#7
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #7
Try one of the longer bolts from the water pump to give you some leverage.

If you've got the distributor, lifters and thrust plate off then that is all that will hold that bad boy in. You can give it a gentle tug and it will come forward.

I remember doing my first cam swap - it was a lotta fun!

Wes
 

geostang351

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Mar 30, 2005
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Danb., CT
Jul 23, 2007
#8
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #8
FLStang said:
he said he removed the lifters....
Click to expand...

RIGHT!! How could I have missed the first four words in this thread???
 

raleighstang65

Member
Jan 19, 2007
170
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16
Wake Forest, NC
Jul 23, 2007
#9
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #9
Oh yea! If by alotta fun you mean wondering what the heck I got myself into, then yea its a blast! I put a longer bolt on to use as a handle and gave a hard tug and its not moving at all. Just doesn't make sense to me cause I can turn it, but it won't move forward.
 

fasttback

New Member
Apr 16, 2005
471
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Northern CA
Jul 23, 2007
#10
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #10
As mentioned before, use a long bolt to help pull and leverage the thing. Word of caution - when the cam breaks loose try to avoid the cam lobes from hitting the bearings. The last "quick" cam change I did I ended up pulling the motor for some new cam bearings.

Maybe a small plate can be mounted in place of the retainer to limit the cam from moving too far during the ridge breaking process?
 

yeloxr7

Member
Apr 18, 2005
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Jul 23, 2007
#11
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #11
geostang351 said:
RIGHT!! How could I have missed the first four words in this thread???
Click to expand...

Ah, but he didn't say anything about removing the distributor.......
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Danb., CT
Jul 23, 2007
#12
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #12
yeloxr7 said:
Ah, but he didn't say anything about removing the distributor.......
Click to expand...

That's what I meant
 

raleighstang65

Member
Jan 19, 2007
170
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16
Wake Forest, NC
Jul 23, 2007
#13
  • Jul 23, 2007
  • #13
Distributor is out... cam is still in!
 
B

BlwnGazkit

Member
Nov 3, 2006
153
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16
Richmond, VA
Jul 24, 2007
#14
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #14
And your certain you removed the thrust plate??? I'm stumped!

The cam must've really worn itself into those bearings. And if thats the case, they should probably be replaced to...
 

Stanger007

Founding Member
Sep 26, 2001
2,015
2
46
Baton Rouge, LA
Jul 24, 2007
#15
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #15
Yank on that shaft.

Wes
 

raleighstang65

Member
Jan 19, 2007
170
0
16
Wake Forest, NC
Jul 24, 2007
#16
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #16
The thrust plate is just the small plate in front of the camshaft right? Held on with two screws? The lifters were not easy to get out, had to put the vise grips on all but maybe two.
 

fasttback

New Member
Apr 16, 2005
471
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0
Northern CA
Jul 24, 2007
#17
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #17
raleighstang65 said:
The thrust plate is just the small plate in front of the camshaft right? Held on with two screws? The lifters were not easy to get out, had to put the vise grips on all but maybe two.
Click to expand...


Yep, just two bolts. Sounds like the lifters had a lot of build up on them...not uncommon.
 

raleighstang65

Member
Jan 19, 2007
170
0
16
Wake Forest, NC
Jul 24, 2007
#18
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #18
Yeah, there was a decent amount of varnish on them. If the cam has worn itself into the bearings, would the engine sound and run strong? It ran great when I took it apart. And if I can't get the cam out and just want to put it back together for now, can I use the new hyrd. lifters that came with the Performer-Plus cam instead of trying to put the old lifters back in?
 

fasttback

New Member
Apr 16, 2005
471
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0
Northern CA
Jul 25, 2007
#19
  • Jul 25, 2007
  • #19
raleighstang65 said:
Yeah, there was a decent amount of varnish on them. If the cam has worn itself into the bearings, would the engine sound and run strong? It ran great when I took it apart. And if I can't get the cam out and just want to put it back together for now, can I use the new hyrd. lifters that came with the Performer-Plus cam instead of trying to put the old lifters back in?
Click to expand...

Mine ran strong before I destroyed two cam bearings pulling out the cam. I got my cam out by pulling back and forth on the cam until the bearings finally gave way. Once it broke the bearing ridge, it flew out with the cam lobes stopping on the bearings (that why I suggested adding some sort of stopper that will limit the forward movement). If you really want that cam out and pulling won't work, you can try tapping it out from the rear (this involves dropping the transmission and removing the rear cam plug).

About the lifters - were your olds ones giving you trouble or did you mix them up already? If no on both, why not just run them again if it was running strong? If you decide to run the new lifters on your old cam, you should not reuse them on your Performer-Plus cam when you install it.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jul 25, 2007
#20
  • Jul 25, 2007
  • #20
Aren't there holes in the valley of the block that you can see the cam through ? Put a flat head in there and "persuade" the came to move forward.

Maybe post a pic or two to make sure you didn't miss something.
 
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