Removing heads - any precautions?

I really think you need to mark the chains. but with it being a swap IDK. good luck

I would put it in safe mode. There is a complete head swap article at ModDepot.

If you can still find it online there is a complete Ford service manual too, I downloaded mine a couple of years ago.

Dont drop it on your foot

Sounds right Miles. Whenever I do one I am kinda anal on how I lay out all the parts and marking the timing of the engine, just to be sure. Good luck.:SNSign:

i was told that a head swap was the perfect time to replace the timing chains. so how would you line up brand new chains? or is that more just good general advice while everything is torn down to replace them?

and i couldnt find a head swap article on modulardepot

i would mark the chains everytime i have worked on these OHC motor i have marked them along with the timing sprokets and crank that way it will be in the same plce when being re-installed

i got 140k on mine. im gathering info and parts for my head swap just wanted to know the how's and how much's of every part.

so what is the answer then if you use new chains?

where do you get a ford service manual? or at least a copy of the section about head removal/install?

I didnt mark mine, but I made sure they were on right when I put them back on. You basically have to lay the chains out on the floor, to get the exact middle links..like this..

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Those end links go on the mark on the crank, and the other goes on the mark on the cam sprocket...or something closely related to that. It talks about it on some thread or article, as well as in the Haynes manual.

Good luck, BEST MOD EVAH!

itshowmuch said:

where do you get a ford service manual? or at least a copy of the section about head removal/install?

Click to expand...

www.fordcds.com

TheSalad said:

I didnt mark mine, but I made sure they were on right when I put them back on. You basically have to lay the chains out on the floor, to get the exact middle links..like this..

____________________
|____________________|

Those end links go on the mark on the crank, and the other goes on the mark on the cam sprocket...or something closely related to that. It talks about it on some thread or article, as well as in the Haynes manual.

Good luck, BEST MOD EVAH!

Click to expand...

That's how I did mine with used chains.

TheSalad said:

I didnt mark mine, but I made sure they were on right when I put them back on. You basically have to lay the chains out on the floor, to get the exact middle links..like this..

____________________
|____________________|

Those end links go on the mark on the crank, and the other goes on the mark on the cam sprocket...or something closely related to that. It talks about it on some thread or article, as well as in the Haynes manual.

Good luck, BEST MOD EVAH!

Click to expand...

The Salad is right, You have to lay them out look closely for the links I always mark them, If you havent done it before I wouldnt try it without the manual, At least a Haynes or chiltons, DOuble check all of your alignment marks then install accordingly to the crankshaft and cam sprockets.

Miles said:

In the middle of doing my headswap: valve covers off, all front accessories are off, engine front cover is about to come off.

My question is before I remove the timing chain, do I need to mark any of the links for timing purposes when I come to reinstall it? or is this just done when installing for timing purposes. FYI - I've read the articles on marking the timing chain for timing purposes when installing new heads.

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yes mark the links AND the cam/crank sprockets, if you do one or the other it won't mean anything

Check the chain guides and tensioners to see if they're worn or not.

Also the MUST to do thing is to PUT THE DIPSTICK TUBE IN THE SAME TIME WHEN YOU'RE PUTTING THE HEAD BACK ON

I had to remove and fix one of my heads just last month. Some stuff you might want to do:

1) stuff a rag in the openning where your oil pan sticks out in front of the block (where the timing chain cover used to be). I dropped a socket down in the pan and it took me an hour to fish it back out with a magnetic pick up)

2) pick up a telescopic magnetic pickup if you don't already have one. you're going to need it.

3) drain the coolant from the block - otherwise when you remove the heads you have antifreeze in your oil pan and all over the garage floor. There is a significant amount that will spill out.

4) you're probably going to use your old crankshaft bolt to turn the crankshaft. Be sure to keep that bolt separate from the new bolt you'll need during reassembly. After you're done with the old bolt you'll want to throw it out since it is TTY.

5) loosen the camshaft bolts before you take the chains off (put the car in 4th or 5th gear if you have a manual tranny to keep the crankshaft from turning)

6) be sure to take your car out of gear when you're trying to move the crankshaft to the "safe" position (be sure your wheels are chocked)

7) make sure you mark the chains and sprockets clearly. I used brake cleaner to remove the oil on them so I could mark them well

8) I tried to lift off the drivers side head with the exhaust manifold attached and I just didn't have enough clearance. I finally just unbolted the manifold and then it was easier to pull off the head.

9) I have a 2001 GT and there was some tube attached to the back of the drivers side head (towards the firewall). Be sure to unbolt that if you have one on there as well before you trying pulling the head off.

10) Be sure to change your oil before starting the car up after everything is done.

Hope this helps!