• Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Removing lower control arm

  • Thread starter Thread starter 65Rob
  • Start date Start date Jan 29, 2012

65Rob

Member
Nov 29, 1999
276
6
19
Victoria, BC, Canada
Jan 29, 2012
#1
  • Jan 29, 2012
  • #1
Just pulling the suspension off the 65 and hit a snag at the lower control arm. The crossmember is in the way of the bolt coming out so needless to say I have to remove it. I assume there's a welded nut in the boxed frame to remove it but I'm sure I'm on the edge of shearing the bolt off with how much force I've already used to this point. I sprayed some wd40 in the hole in the frame in that area to let it sit over night. Just wondering if shearing the bolt is a regular issue? I've certainly done that enough times over the years and it's PIA to fix, short of just welding the crossmember back in place and calling it a day and causing future headaches.

Was also surprised that the lower arm had the original balljoints
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Jan 30, 2012
#2
  • Jan 30, 2012
  • #2
An air impact wrench is a must on these. I've seen them shear with a big breaker bar, and that opens a can of worms. Air impact tends to break up the rust that's holding it in place. On reassembly, I reverse the bolt, unless the car is a show car, so it can come out with the crossmember in place.
 

horseballz

10 Year Member
Sep 30, 2009
824
19
49
Las Vegas, NV
Jan 30, 2012
#3
  • Jan 30, 2012
  • #3
Another tip for any bolt that may have some rust involved is to turn it to tighten, just a bit, before trying to loosen it. It breaks the rust bond more easily. Also, the "heat wrench" is your friend!
Just My $.02,
Gene
 

65Rob

Member
Nov 29, 1999
276
6
19
Victoria, BC, Canada
Jan 30, 2012
#4
  • Jan 30, 2012
  • #4
2+2GT said:
An air impact wrench is a must on these. I've seen them shear with a big breaker bar, and that opens a can of worms. Air impact tends to break up the rust that's holding it in place. On reassembly, I reverse the bolt, unless the car is a show car, so it can come out with the crossmember in place.
Click to expand...

Thanks GT I'll try the impact gun, I did have a breaker bar on it and figured it was going to snap the bolt if I went any further and yeah, a big can of worms. I like the idea of reversing the bolt, I was thinking that was the way it should have come in the first place.

Thanks Gene, good ideas, I really want to avoid snapping the bolt.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jan 30, 2012
#5
  • Jan 30, 2012
  • #5
the only problem with reversing the bolt is that if the nut comes off, there is a greater chance that the lower control arm bolt can work its way out. where as if you put the bolt in like the factory had it, if the nut comes off, you dont lose the lower control arm bolt as well. just food for thought.
 

65Rob

Member
Nov 29, 1999
276
6
19
Victoria, BC, Canada
Jan 30, 2012
#6
  • Jan 30, 2012
  • #6
rbohm said:
the only problem with reversing the bolt is that if the nut comes off, there is a greater chance that the lower control arm bolt can work its way out. where as if you put the bolt in like the factory had it, if the nut comes off, you dont lose the lower control arm bolt as well. just food for thought.
Click to expand...

Not sure what the odds of that are but certainly a distrubing thought, I'll have to take that into consideration.

Thanks
 

Bryan83taco

Active Member
Feb 4, 2003
554
40
39
SF Bay
Jan 30, 2012
#7
  • Jan 30, 2012
  • #7
I just recently replaced my lower control arms on my '89 and had issues with the chassis bolts. I picked up a cheap propane torch at my local ace and heated the bolts up. A few minutes on each one. It did the trick and the impact took them right out.
 

65Rob

Member
Nov 29, 1999
276
6
19
Victoria, BC, Canada
Jan 30, 2012
#8
  • Jan 30, 2012
  • #8
Bryan83taco said:
I just recently replaced my lower control arms on my '89 and had issues with the chassis bolts. I picked up a cheap propane torch at my local ace and heated the bolts up. A few minutes on each one. It did the trick and the impact took them right out.
Click to expand...

Thanks I'll probably stick a torch under them for a bit too
 

Mustang Jim

Founding Member
Nov 1, 2001
373
3
18
New Jersey
Jan 30, 2012
#9
  • Jan 30, 2012
  • #9
Definitely try the heat, penetrating oil and impact wrench. I've broken one of those bolts once using a long makeshift breaker bar and it snapped the bolt. It was a pain to get the remainder of the bolt out.
 

65Rob

Member
Nov 29, 1999
276
6
19
Victoria, BC, Canada
Jan 30, 2012
#10
  • Jan 30, 2012
  • #10
Well no luck so far, sprayed it with penetrating oil last night, heated it up and put the impact gun on it, didn't budge. My impact gun isn't much to rave about so this may be the excuse I need to get a good one
 

gikort

Member
Nov 26, 2010
82
1
9
Jan 30, 2012
#11
  • Jan 30, 2012
  • #11
You don't want to heat the bolt, that will expand it and make it even harder to get out. Heat the nut red hot, not the bolt, so the nut will expand making it easier to get the bolt out (I realize you can't heat the nut because it is in the frame).

Best option is your excuse to get a new impact wrench
 

65Rob

Member
Nov 29, 1999
276
6
19
Victoria, BC, Canada
Jan 31, 2012
#12
  • Jan 31, 2012
  • #12
gikort said:
You don't want to heat the bolt, that will expand it and make it even harder to get out. Heat the nut red hot, not the bolt, so the nut will expand making it easier to get the bolt out (I realize you can't heat the nut because it is in the frame).

Best option is your excuse to get a new impact wrench
Click to expand...

Actually I was wondering about the heat concept. Anyway I do love a good excuse to buy a new tool, picked up the 700lb force Jet this morning I will try it tonight, hope it does the trick.
 

65Rob

Member
Nov 29, 1999
276
6
19
Victoria, BC, Canada
Jan 31, 2012
#13
  • Jan 31, 2012
  • #13
WOW, came off like nothing with the new gun, half a trigger pull and the bolt was in my hand.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

New Products From J&M Products - 1979-1998 & 1999-2004 Race/Extreme Duty Rear Lower Control Arms
  • J&M Products
  • Oct 9, 2025
  • Vendor Sponsor Forums
Replies
0
Views
235
Vendor Sponsor Forums Oct 9, 2025
J&M Products
C
1965 Mustang Lower Control Arm Question.
  • chopper1876
  • Nov 9, 2024
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Replies
19
Views
823
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Dec 7, 2024
GOvert
G
A definitive answer to the question of how much height Energy Suspension isolators add
  • 2000xp8
  • May 20, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
242
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- May 20, 2025
2000xp8
S
5.0 Rebuild
  • smittys7up
  • Nov 29, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
8
Views
522
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Dec 20, 2025
Noobz347
0
V6 to V8 Swap info
  • 02_2v_Curtis
  • Jan 11, 2026
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
570
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Jan 11, 2026
02_2v_Curtis
0
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?