Remove steering column cover - two screws underneath. Pop out the switches in the upper part of the dash (2 on each side) and remove the wiring harness for each one. Remove The upper part of the dash - this will require removal of the lower part first - there is two parts - a plastic cover - remove the screws (3 or 4) and pop it off - I think it is also held on with fasteners that you just pull off. Then remove the metal cover below it.
To remove the upper part, undo the two screws at the back - use a ratchet and the right size torx bit. Remove any other screws and pull it off. The instrument cluster is held on with 5-6 screws - remove them and pull it out a couple of inches. Remove the two wiring harnesses that plug in to the back - one on each side. Remove the speedo cable - push in on the clip and then pull back. The cluster then comes out. I think the bulbs go in from the back - I think they just twist in and out. You should be able to figure it out!
I have always had to remove the lower when I was working on the dash - you might be able to get away without removing it to get the top part of but I think there is one screw on the right side of the steering column that needs to have the lower removed to get to.