removing the stock fuel pump

SaleenGT2001

Well-Known Member
Jul 18, 2005
2,811
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Four Oaks NC
i dopped the tank this morning to go ahead and remove the stock pump while i'm waiting for my mongoose kit to come in.:D i got it down and got the top cover with the six 8mm bolts off. i cant see the connector to unplug the wires from the fuel pump.i dont wanna mess anything up so i just decided to quit till i could get some better pics or advice. i was going by the instructions at http://www.dndgarage.net/focuspumpinstall.htm. the 6 small screws that hold the basket in arent 5mm does anyone know the corrrect size?? thanks for the help in advance
 
ok i just didnt wanna break anything. i tired a 5 mm and 5.5mm sockets and they were a little bit too big. i'll have to get some from my box at work and bring home with me tonight. maybe a 4 or 4.5 will do the trick. i just hope i dont drop the screws!! i wonder why they tell you to remove the pump wiring harness if it isnt necessary. that thing is a pian to get to!! i'll try to get that old pump out maybe tonight or tomorrow
 
I don't remember the exact size. I used a magnetic bit to make sure I didn't drop them. I was scared to death. Once you get the basket up, then pop the screws and you'll have a much easier time disconnecting the power. It'll need to be done for the pump swap, but will not hinder you sliding the basket up.
 
jstreet0204 said:
Go ahead and pull the bucket and drill some 1/2 inch holes in the front of it. The focus pump can drain the bucket pretty fast without some extra holes.

ok i'm pretty clueless about the pump install. it is nothing like the pump on my 87 chevy truck, which i changed in a hotel parking lot. is the bucket in one piece or 2 pieces? am i pulling the bucket out already to install the new pump? pics would really help me out!! i'm guessing that i need to drill holes in the bottom of the bucket where the fuel pump filter is located. but once i take out the 6 small screws will i be able to remove the entire basket? i thought the oil return line was gonna be the PITA. guess i was wrong huh?
 
If you pull the basket/ bucket it is easier to do the actaully pump swap. However I know my Fuel guage has never worked right since. If your brave enough and I know I would do it this way next time is to just remove the top and then the pump.
BTW yes I've checked my float works and floats up and down just the gauge doesn't work right.
 
Maybe the 96-98's are different. I know we have a return style set up but i can pull my pump right out of the tank, cut the wires, the bolts were 5mm that held the pump in the bracket, soldered the new pump on and put the pump and bracket back in the bafle in the tank. Didn't even take 1.5 hours. Yours does look different though.
 
TweekedGT said:
Maybe the 96-98's are different. I know we have a return style set up but i can pull my pump right out of the tank, cut the wires, the bolts were 5mm that held the pump in the bracket, soldered the new pump on and put the pump and bracket back in the bafle in the tank. Didn't even take 1.5 hours. Yours does look different though.

They must be different. There was no sodering required when I did mine. plugs directly into the harness.
 
Hey Saleen, not trying to steal your thread but I'm doing the same thing only with an Aviator pump. Hey guys, with this Aviator pump can I just take out the old pump and replace it with the new one w/o having to swap out the floats? And this drilling holes thing, am I going to have to do that with the Aviator pump? Again, not try to steal thread just didn't want to start a new thread on pretty much the same thing.
 
SaleenGT2001 said:
wouldnt drilling holes allow the gas to escape just as fast as it would enter?? maybe a dumb question, but i only wanna do this once!

Yes, but the fucus pump can drain the bucket faster than it can fill through the stock holes. I'd go ahead and do it while you have the tank down. Do a search on modular depot for "bucket and holes" it will come back with several threads where the holes have solved WOT fuel pressure issues.