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Removing tie rods and ball joint from spindle

  • Thread starter Thread starter MysteryMachine
  • Start date Start date Sep 8, 2005
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MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
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Parkesburg, PA
Sep 8, 2005
#1
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #1
Having issues getting the bolts out of the spindle is there a trick to it of should i just keep beating the hell outta them. I'm putting in new ball joints and bumpsteer kit so i don't care if i screw up the bolts. Also is there a reason why I can't just lower the control arm slowly and remove the spring like you can in the back or does that not work?
 

95Vert

New Member
Aug 19, 2004
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North Mexico (deep south Texas)
Sep 8, 2005
#2
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #2
I switched out hte ball joints on my uncles 98 F-150 and had a hard time. First, I was hitting it in the wrong direction. Then it was just plain hard to get them out. I used several hammers and a lot of beer. About the springs, I used and steel tube to yank them out. Be careful not to pinch your fingers cause that beeeatch hurts.
 

MysteryMachine

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Jun 21, 2003
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Parkesburg, PA
Sep 8, 2005
#3
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #3
everything i read says about using a spring compression tool the one we have which is actually 2 don't fit on my springs so i just want to forget it but wasn't sure if it was a must have thing. As far as teh bolts i have wacked them with a hammer and they don't budge wasn't sure if maybe i missed something or not guess i'll just keep beating on them and see what happens
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Sep 8, 2005
#4
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #4
Pickle fork if not reusing the parts.
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
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Sep 8, 2005
#5
  • Sep 8, 2005
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maybe i should have left my strut attached lol
 

sawbones25

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
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Virginia
Sep 8, 2005
#6
  • Sep 8, 2005
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You're probably not going to be able to get to the ball joint bolt well enough with the strut still bolted up. But that bolt has to come off first, then get the pickle fork and pound it in there separating the spindle from the ball joint.

If I were you though, I would replace the whole lower control arm also. New ball joints don't like to stay in old control arms due to the hole being enlarged. You can get larger ball joints but I've found they aren't very reliable either.

JMHO
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Altoona, PA
Sep 8, 2005
#7
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #7
I used a pulley puller to get mine off, I didn't have a pickle fork and nothing else would work. Getting the springs out was a PITA too, but I used a spring compression tool and then chained the spring to the A arm, (MAKE SURE ITS SECURE!!!), I then used a pry-bar to get the top part of the spring out of the socket. It comes out with a vengance so be careful. Re-installing the stock springs is a BITCH, if you use a spring compressor you have to make sure you have it high enough off the bottom of the spring so that it doesn't bottom out on the A arm when the spring "bends" in the spring pocket. It took me several attempt to get it perfect.
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Boca Raton, Florida
Sep 8, 2005
#8
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #8
Yea trying to remove the spring with strut bolted to the spindle is well pretty moronish. I've done some stupid things too. "Here's your sign."
 

94_Teal_GT

Founding Member
Aug 14, 2002
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Palm Bay, FL
Sep 8, 2005
#9
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #9
I used THIS and THIS to remove/install the ball joints and remove the tie rods.

Things tend to go easier with the right tools. You can use the tie rod tool to break the ball joints loose from the spindle, just DON'T take the nut completely off the ball joint or the tie rod.
 

LoudToy958

Member
Mar 30, 2005
435
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16
Bremerton, WA
Sep 8, 2005
#10
  • Sep 8, 2005
  • #10
The tie rod - pit arm puller above will make it easy to get the spindle off the ball joint, as well as pop the tie rods off. Just stick that sucker on the ball joint head, and tighten her down little at a time. It will pop right off with suprisingly little effort.........
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
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Parkesburg, PA
Sep 9, 2005
#11
  • Sep 9, 2005
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might have to make a run to harbor freight. My strut is out everything is off the spindle but the ball joint and tie rod only reason i mentioned the strut was thought maybe it would hold the spindle while i beat on stuff lol.

So has anyone else had or heard of the problem like saw said about the ball joints not staying in the old control arms?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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Sep 9, 2005
#12
  • Sep 9, 2005
  • #12
Wait, what bolts are you whacking on? The ones on the ball joint or something else? The BJ nut is loose, but not removed all the way (that is how I do them too)?

The BJ's shank tends to get 'loaded' in the spindle and often does not really want to come out. Sometimes using a jack under the control arm to change the angle on the shank helps. (USE UTMOST SAFETY WHEN DOING ALL THIS STUFF).

Good luck.

I have used a Pitman arm puller, pickle fork and a BFH and sometimes it takes trying all 3 before one works.
 

donjohn

New Member
Feb 7, 2004
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Irvine - Southern California
Sep 9, 2005
#13
  • Sep 9, 2005
  • #13
haha, you guys are funny

i used this pickle fork on an air gun to separate it... it was pretty loud, but cake

for the springs... unscrewed the strut from the engine bay and lowered the control arm (calipers off i think). took a ball peen hammer and yanked the stock spring out

put sportlines in, so no need for a compression tool, even though i had it
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
1,835
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Parkesburg, PA
Sep 9, 2005
#14
  • Sep 9, 2005
  • #14
I'm hitting the bolt on top of the BJ and the one that comes through the spindle from the tie rod. Gonna see if my dad will stop on his way home from work at HF and pick up them tools for me.

So what you guys are saying is that after i get the spindle off just lowering the control arm wont let the spring fall out?
 

94_Teal_GT

Founding Member
Aug 14, 2002
405
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0
Palm Bay, FL
Sep 9, 2005
#15
  • Sep 9, 2005
  • #15
MysteryMachine said:
I'm hitting the bolt on top of the BJ and the one that comes through the spindle from the tie rod. Gonna see if my dad will stop on his way home from work at HF and pick up them tools for me.

So what you guys are saying is that after i get the spindle off just lowering the control arm wont let the spring fall out?
Click to expand...
Crap! Forgot to mention this. The instructions on the Harbor Freight ball joint press aren't exactly correct. Guess that's the difference between their's and the Craftsman press that looks identical but costs $99.99 Car Craft Look through this article for some basics. See page 4 for the correct configuration of the ball joint press for removal. I found it easier if you cut off what's left of the rubber boot when removing the old ones. Another word of caution, if you get the tie rod seperator that I linked to, make sure you leave the nut about 1/2 way up the threads. It's quite startling when they pop loose!!!

I don't know exactly what you're asking about Spring Removal . I didn't use or need a compressor to remove the stock springs. I removed the caliper, unhooked the ABS sensor cables, removed the stabilizer end links, then placed a jack under the front of the lower control arm. Next I removed the 2 large bolts that attach the strut to the spindle, then lowered the jack and pushed the control arm down as far as it would go. The springs came out w/o too much coaxing.
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
1,835
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Parkesburg, PA
Sep 10, 2005
#16
  • Sep 10, 2005
  • #16
well my dad stoped at HF for me and got me a pitman arm puller but it kina looks different then the one you posted and it cost more i hope it works. As for the ball joint kit he said they didn't have one so we'll see what i can do with out it for now.

Thansk for the heads up on stuff migt work on it tomorrow i'll let ya's know how it goes
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
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129
Sep 10, 2005
#17
  • Sep 10, 2005
  • #17
MysteryMachine said:
As for the ball joint kit he said they didn't have one so we'll see what i can do with out it for now.
Click to expand...
If not mentioned, a parts store should rent/loan that BJ tool out (that is where I first saw it, used it, and liked it well enough to buy it. Of course that was before they got so cheap to buy. ).

Good luck.
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
1,835
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Parkesburg, PA
Sep 10, 2005
#18
  • Sep 10, 2005
  • #18
yeah that or my bro in law has huge sockets that he bought to install his BJ's on his truck. I don't really see the need now that i think about it to buy one don't plan on doing this too often taking all this stuff of is a pita
 

MysteryMachine

Active Member
Jun 21, 2003
1,835
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Parkesburg, PA
Sep 10, 2005
#19
  • Sep 10, 2005
  • #19
Ok well I slept till like 1 then had to help my dad so i didn't get started on the car till late. Once I did i was having issues with that stupid cover thing so i ended up busting out my big grinder and grinding the heads of the rivits off. Can anyone explain why the hell ford used rivits on the front? Anyway tryed the puller my dad picked up for me it woudlnd't work on the tie rod but poped the ball joint bolt out so i figured i'm done cause it was dark. Told my dad he wasn't a complete **** up lol cause it works for 1 thing so he asked if i used the pickle fork and i said not really so we went back out and he beat on the fork and on the bolt and on the fork and bolt some more he turned the fork over beat on it and the bolt some more and finially the damn thing came out. So then i droped the jack again he pushed down on the CA and pulled the spring out which i tried and couldn't do. So of course he had to be a smart ass about it lol
 

sawbones25

Founding Member
May 29, 2001
1,318
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Sep 10, 2005
#20
  • Sep 10, 2005
  • #20
Your dad sounds like a cool guy.
 
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