All thread is just that, a rod that is threaded from end to end with no bolt head. If you cut the head off a bolt you now have 'all thread'.Could you describe what all-thread is? I've never heard of it before
All thread is just that, a rod that is threaded from end to end with no bolt head. If you cut the head off a bolt you now have 'all thread'.Could you describe what all-thread is? I've never heard of it before
Threaded rod, great for making low strength fasteners of odd lengths.Could you describe what all-thread is? I've never heard of it before
I'm fairly certain it's a vacuum leak from the intake manifold, I sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold on the side where the three cylinders aren't firing and rpms jumped instantly. I'm going to take the intake manifold off and put rtv on both sides of the gasket and see if that fixes it. Thanks for all the helpAnswer these questions and let's see how far down the rabbit hole you are going
thread sealer on the lower intake bolts?
Did you use new head bolts or reuse the old ones?
What sequence did you tighten the head bolts and in what order?
What head gaskets and did you install them with the front towards the fron and with the word FRONT up?
since you didnt measure pushrod lenghth, did you at least measure for proper preload and how many turns past zero lash did you go before getting the proper torque on the rockers?
How did you align the timing chain and gears
what intake gaskets did you use and did you use the cork end gaskets
Did you put RTV around any of the head ports
Did you install the intake gasket dry or use some permatex like product to keep it in place
what order did you tighten the intake bolts and in how many sequences.
Did you get the motor to TDC prior to installing the distributor
Do you have spark on those 3 dead cylinders
Are the spark plugs fouled, wet
At the minimum you have a bad vacuum leak, most likely due to your intake. The fact you have 3 dead cylinder and gas in the oil is because you are not firing on 3 cylinders and washing down them which can wipe out your bottom end quickly. Assembling an engine without a manual or experience to know how to do it right is asking for trouble. This could be a very costly learning experience.
It seem that you didn't see the stay in place gasket tip in my post. That is the best bet to get the gasket to stay in place.I'm fairly certain it's a vacuum leak from the intake manifold, I sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold on the side where the three cylinders aren't firing and rpms jumped instantly. I'm going to take the intake manifold off and put rtv on both sides of the gasket and see if that fixes it. Thanks for all the help
I'm fairly certain it's a vacuum leak from the intake manifold, I sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold on the side where the three cylinders aren't firing and rpms jumped instantly. I'm going to take the intake manifold off and put rtv on both sides of the gasket and see if that fixes it. Thanks for all the help
Answer these questions and let's see how far down the rabbit hole you are going
thread sealer on the lower intake bolts?
Did you use new head bolts or reuse the old ones?
What sequence did you tighten the head bolts and in what order?
What head gaskets and did you install them with the front towards the fron and with the word FRONT up?
since you didnt measure pushrod lenghth, did you at least measure for proper preload and how many turns past zero lash did you go before getting the proper torque on the rockers?
How did you align the timing chain and gears
what intake gaskets did you use and did you use the cork end gaskets
Did you put RTV around any of the head ports
Did you install the intake gasket dry or use some permatex like product to keep it in place
what order did you tighten the intake bolts and in how many sequences.
Did you get the motor to TDC prior to installing the distributor
Do you have spark on those 3 dead cylinders
Are the spark plugs fouled, wet
At the minimum you have a bad vacuum leak, most likely due to your intake. The fact you have 3 dead cylinder and gas in the oil is because you are not firing on 3 cylinders and washing down them which can wipe out your bottom end quickly. Assembling an engine without a manual or experience to know how to do it right is asking for trouble. This could be a very costly learning experience.
I was following up until the point where you said clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front, what rubber rails?Threaded rod, great for making low strength fasteners of odd lengths.
Before going to the trouble of taking the intake off, do a compression test. If the rocker arms are too tight, the affected cylinders won't run.
Only use a compression tester with a screw in adapter for the spark plug hole. The other type leaks too much to get an accurate reading. Your local auto parts store may have a compression tester to rent. If you do mechanic work on your own car on a regular basis, it would be a good tool to add to your collection.
With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the throttle wide open with a plastic screwdriver handle between the throttle butterfly and the throttle housing. Crank the engine until it the gage reading stops increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good & what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from 140-170 PSI. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that have more than 10% difference.
I generally use a big screwdriver handle stuck in the TB between the butterfly and the TB to prop the throttle open. The plastic is soft enough that it won't damage anything and won't get sucked down the intake either.
A battery charger (not the trickle type) is a good thing to have if you haven't driven the car lately or if you have any doubts about the battery's health. Connect it up while you are cranking the engine and it will help keep the starter cranking at a consistent speed from the first cylinder tested to the last cylinder.
If you do have to remove and replace the manifold gasket, here's a very useful tip.
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Bingo! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
Ask Nicoleb3x3 about the intake gasket that slipped out of place and caused idle and vacuum leak problems that could not be seen or found by external examination. Spay everything with anything you have, and you won't find the leak...
Most gasket kits include a rubber rail for the front and rear of the intake manifold where the manifold mates up against the engine blockI was following up until the point where you said clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front, what rubber rails?
We are all very knowledgeable. Each one of us could probably walk you through an entire engine teardown and rebuild.
We try not to give any advice unless we have a decisive answer.
You messed up on the intake.
-remove the intake
-Clean surfaces
Go buy 5/16 all-thread at the hardware store, cut them longer than the bolts for the intake.
-Install the gaskets with a smear of rtv around the water jackets, then screw the all thread into the bolt holes. (No need to do every one of them 4 will do)
Slide the intake over the all-thread this will ensure that everything lines up correctly.
-install the intake bolts then removing the all-thread and replace it with the correct bolts.
-re-torque intake and install plenum ect ect.
Good luck
Could you describe what all-thread is? I've never heard of it before
Most gasket kits include a rubber rail for the front and rear of the intake manifold where the manifold mates up against the engine block
I'm going to take the intake manifold off and put rtv on both sides of the gasket and see if that fixes it. Thanks for all the help
Mine didn't include that rubber rail, I'm wondering if the intake could be leaking through thereMost gasket kits include a rubber rail for the front and rear of the intake manifold where the manifold mates up against the engine block
You would have oil leaks there, not a misfire.Mine didn't include that rubber rail, I'm wondering if the intake could be leaking through there
So like I said before, I sprayed carb cleaner on the intake manifold on the driver said and the rpms shot up. So now I'm trying to chase down an intake manifold leak. I'm going to take the intake mani back off and spray some permatex on the gaskets. I took the intake off last night just for giggles to see if the gasket had fell down when it was put on before, and it didn't look like that was the case. I put it back on and made sure the gasket stayed in place, but still had the same problem, and same results with carb cleaner. Do you think I'm on the right track? I've been working on cars for a few years now and never had anything like this happen, it's stumping meYou would have oil leaks there, not a misfire.
The heads are new, and I'm using felpro gaskets. The head bolts are torqued to the proper specs and torqued in the proper pattern and sequenceI would not reuse the intake gaskets, what intake gasket are you using? New heads? Are your head bolts torque to yield?
Get a spec sheet showing torque patterns for head and intake bolts. Use the all thread to keep gasket in place.
I've never bought intake gaskets that didn't include the end rail pieces, try to get the blue end rail gaskets, they have tabs that keep them in place, use a skim coat of silicon to help seal, if you don't get the blue ones just run a line of blue rtv about 1/4" thick on the rails, make sure everything is clean and dry
pictures of the heads?Pictures. Plz
Ill do that, I hadn't done it yet because I figured it would be throwing so many codes I wouldn't be able to figure out what was actually causing it. On top of the fact that it wont run with the intake on, its backfiring through the intake as well, I can hear it popping.Dump codes sticky
Look at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum where the sticky threads are posted. One of them is how to dump the computer codes. Codes may be present even if the CEL (Check Engine Light) isn’t on. You don’t need a code reader or scanner – all you need is a paper clip, or if your lady friend has a hair pin, that will do the job.
I highly suggest that you read it and follow the instructions to dump the codes. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/how-to-pull-codes-from-eec4.889006/
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