Shape, it is not too bad a job. your aod probably takes it easier on them than some stick drivers.
ill share what i know, though i know you know what is up and turn a good wrench.
for testing: you know to grab each yolk and twist them against eachother. i have experience (in Seattle) of them testing fine that way, but having corroded from the inside out. i was getting some squeak with the rear joint.
for doing them: i am lazy. to get my shaft out, i have to yank exhaust stuff. i do them with the DS on the car. hit them with some PB Blaster, etc to make the spyders come apart easier.
unbolt the DS from the rear end. mark the DS and pumpkin flange, so you can bolt it back up the same. also i like to mark any two parts that come apart, like the DS on either side of the u joint. so when it goes back together, it is oriented the same. they are dynamically balanced, and i think many people that have vibration problems did not mark each part they took apart. (no offense, as i bet shops dont mark them, and the problem was there before we got the cars. i think the repair manuals omit this step).
anyhow, DS flange bolts: 12mm, 12 point socket is needed (a good one. if you dont happen to have a good one, buy a nice one. if you round the DS to pumpkin bolts, that is a pain). the bolts are tight, factory has loc tite on them. i use an extension and 3/8 ratchet. some folks use their leg on a breaker, etc. i am a big guy, so i dont fit well, but if i can reach, it comes off. LOL. apply e-brake and break two loose. undo brake, and rotate DS. duplicate on last two bolts.
once unbolted, you can either use my favorite (you know, the 4 pound swinging press) and a socket that is just smaller than the caps on the joints. pound one in, take the cap off, then pound another (90* from the first one). remove the cap, and now pound the last two as necessary. there are different ways to do it, it is a logic and look as you go thing.
carefully take a cap off the new joint and slide the joint in. inside the cap are needle bearings, dont mess them up. i actually buy an extra joint so if i mess one up, i can use the extra and put the first one together later when i feel like it. just me.
both front and rear should be the same. the fronts tend to go out half as often as the back joints.
im sure you have researched the aod's, but i will share this. My g/f's 94 camaro (aode) clunks when coming to a stop. i eventually read that it is normal. nothing that can reasonably be done- it is intrinsic to the design. i dont know if the stang aod's have any similar ideosynchracies. sounds like these are new symptoms, anyhow.
also, if you need two joints, and have any vibs, i would get an aluminum DS. they can be had for 140 bucks. real nice piece. some aerostars had them too, as i recall. i dont know if they bolt right in.
if you yank the DS out and do it on a bench (most manuals recommend this), you may lose some atf (manuals lose gear oil). if so, remember to top up.
loc tite the DS to pumpkin bolts (the 12 mm, 12 pointers). they like to back out.
on pushing the old joints out, in addition to the hammering method, i have used a 6.5" C-clamp with a socket on the cap, also (substitute clamp for hammering). next time, if it fits, i will use a ball joint press. they have one that is a big C clamp. you can get this tool loaned from autozone, etc. i used it on ball joints and it worked great. i bought one since i liked it so much.
i say this, since once you start, you dont want to bend your only clamp and be SOL. nice to have more than enough stuff to do it. you know.
that is all i can think of. easier than what i made it sound like. good luck, Shape.
. Anyway if it is the joints I was planning on putting the rear pretty high with jackstands and leaving the front wheels on the ground. That should minimize fluid loss shouldn't it?
