Rocker Arm Asembly Assistance

[DissFigured]

When bolting the rocker arm to the fulcrum, is there a specification somewhere that tells me how tight to make this bolt? I can't find it in my shop manual.

I pulled the rocker arm off the #1 cylinder (the exhaust side) and I am re attaching it. Initially, I just sort of eyed it but when I started the car, it was very unhappy. made an exciting noise on that side a few times, and I then killed it out of fear.

So, I checked that rocker and it seemed loose compared to the rest. I didn't tighten it enough I guess.

At any rate, is there a site anywhere that tells me specifically how tight to get this bolt?

 

[Dark Knight]

Engine? Pedestal or stud mount? What year?
If it's a stud mount with a shoulder, you just torque it down.

http://cranecams.com/pdf/469e.pdf
or for pedestal mount
http://cranecams.com/pdf/453e.pdf

 

[DissFigured]

sorry, 65 coupe w/ 289

looks like mine are stud mount.

Does this mean I can just tighten the heck out of them?

I notice most of them are lose enough to wiggle just a little bit and I can roll the rod between my thumb and fore finger? Shouls they do that" Should I tighten them all down?

 

[D.Hearne]

Get that cylinder on TDC of the firing stroke. Install the rocker, then fulcrum ball, then the nut. Make sure the pushrod is seated correctly. Tighten the rocker untill the pushrod has resistence (twist it between two fingers while tightening the nut) When you feel resistence tighten the nut another 1/2 to 3/4 full turn. Now it's done.

 

[DissFigured]

OK, that part is clear as glass and I totally think I can do it.

Now how do I make "that cylinder on TDC of the firing stroke" In fact what is TDC?

 

[D.Hearne]

When the distributor rotor is pointing at the #1 terminal on the distributor cap, that cylinder Should be at or close to TDC of the firing stroke. Or remove the #1 cylinder spark plug, crank the engine with out the coil hooked up and stop it when you feel the piston's pressure on your finger, stuck in the plug hole. The timing marks on the harmonic balancer should be lined up with the timing pointer then. TDC is reached twice in each firing sequence, one for the fire stroke, the other at the top of the exhaust stroke. Obviously you don't want to adjust the rocker then, when the valve is slightly open at that time.

 

[Max Power]

http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/showdetl.cfm?DID=6&Product_ID=2551&CATID=21

 

[DissFigured]

THERE WE GO! Thank s for that link.

I was thinking how the hell am I going to crank the engine and stop it fast enough to land on the 1 cylinder.

"Honey, start the car. I am going to stick my finger in this spark plug hole. When I scream in agony, turn it off"

I am actually getting pretty good at working on this car. I have rewired the whole thing, replaced the front suspension, and I am working on the disc brake conversion. but I totally lack the vocabulary to communicate w/ folks about it w/o sounding like an idiot.

So what is TDC anyway?

 

[D.Hearne]

TDC stands for Top Dead Center, this is when the piston reaches is farthest point in travel up the cylinder bore. What you do when using the finger method is stop cranking (you can use a screw driver yourself arc-ing across the solenoid switch on the fender apron directly across the open space from the #1 cylinder to bypass the ignition switch in the car) Then fine tune the crank position with a breaker bar and 15/16" socket on the front of the crank. All this sounds like a lot, but it becomes common knowledge and simple to understand in time.

 

[Max Power]

Diss, here is a primer on the 4 stroke engine and timing. TDC is pretty clear in here:

http://www.cartechbooks.com/vstore/showdetl.cfm?DID=6&Product_ID=2554&CATID=21