- Sep 2, 2004
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If I have the right kind of roll cage welded into my car, would I still need sub-frame connectors?
Roll Cage/Subframes...?
- Thread starter Back2Mustangs
- Start date
BennyBlown2v
New Member
Not really - but you would need a full race cage (solid, no swing outs for doors or bolt in peices)... But if you got the money for a cage why not just do the subframe connectors anyway?
LaserRed01GT
Banned
SFC's work much differently at stiffening the chassis than a cage does. Until you start to get into SFI spec cages for certifying a 9.49 or quicker car, the primary purpose of the cage is safety. When you start getting into the 25.xx cages, then can expect them to stiffen up the chassis.
SFC's are always a good idea. The stiffer the chassis, the easier it is for the suspension to work properly and plant the tires. SFC's on my '01 made a big difference.
SFC's are always a good idea. The stiffer the chassis, the easier it is for the suspension to work properly and plant the tires. SFC's on my '01 made a big difference.
- Sep 2, 2004
- 466
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Well first of all, I want side exhaust so badly I can't stand it. I already have the subframes, I just haven't had them welded in yet because I want to find a way to make them work with side exhaust. Secondly I'm just getting the ball rolling on a 600-700HP 2V combo...so I'm not sure that a cage is needed, I don't really know that much about them, I just heard that they offer some chassis stiffening and thought it might be a way to bypass the SFC's, haha. Stupid logic, but I'm stubborn when I get my mind made up on something. Thanks for the input guys!
forum155pl
New Member
a full on cage would stiffin it alot.. but if you have subframes built into a 6 PT it would be mega sweet... i'm going to be doing a cage this winter sometime with the sibframes tieing into it somehow... ive seen guys that cutout the subframe and weld a O in it to run the exhaust though it.. thats what i'm going to be doing soon...
JerseyStyle
Founding Member
I'm going to be going down the same road as you in a month. did you get quoted a price yet on the install? I'm a big fan of the subframes and cage, even a full griggs race suspension with the cage(really sweet
).
forum155pl
New Member
I'd like to see your mod list if you're seriously considering a roll cage
Anything running 11.99's requires at least a roll bar according to the NHRA. A full cage isn't required unless you've modified the floor board and/or the firewall until 10.00....otherwise, a full cage must be installed running 10.99's
I guess he should be thankful he's not driving a convertible. A roll bar is needed for 13.99's no matter what.
forum155pl
New Member
to me a rollcage is just a comfort thing..when i was 13 i was in a ranger that rolled 3 times and ended up on its side.. when i crawled out of the windshield i scratched my back so bad that i had to get 250 stitches from my ass to my shoulders... if i'm going to go fast im doing a roll cage ...
LaserRed01GT
Banned
I have a copy of the 2007 NHRA rulebook and the new SFI specs book. The NHRA rules have slightly changed this year. A 5 point roll bar will not be required until you go 11.49 or quicker. From 10.99-10.00, you can still run a roll bar if you have the stock firewall. The floor pan has nothing to do with chassis certification until you get to a 25.5 chassis. If you run 10.99-10.00 and have modified the firewall, you must run a NHRA certified cage. 9.99 or quicker or 135 MPH you must have a NHRA cerfified cage.
I used to build chassis for a living and there are all kinds of different cages that will statisfy most NHRA techs doing a 10.99-10.00 certification, but you have to keep the fundamental purpose of a cage in mind, safety. A cage should at minimum have two halo bars (hoops) coming off the main hoop each connecting to a floor mounted front hoop. There should at least be a halo crossbar with seat supports, and a diagonal main hoop brace that attaches at one end no more than 12" from the drivers helmet. The main hoop should have at least two straight rear supports. I also used to always put a x-brace crossbars on the rear supports as well. A dash crossbar is optional on the front hoops, but it is a good idea.
It will all depend on how fast/quick you realistically expect your car to go.
I used to build chassis for a living and there are all kinds of different cages that will statisfy most NHRA techs doing a 10.99-10.00 certification, but you have to keep the fundamental purpose of a cage in mind, safety. A cage should at minimum have two halo bars (hoops) coming off the main hoop each connecting to a floor mounted front hoop. There should at least be a halo crossbar with seat supports, and a diagonal main hoop brace that attaches at one end no more than 12" from the drivers helmet. The main hoop should have at least two straight rear supports. I also used to always put a x-brace crossbars on the rear supports as well. A dash crossbar is optional on the front hoops, but it is a good idea.
It will all depend on how fast/quick you realistically expect your car to go.
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