rough idle

[roan65]

ok, this is round 3 for the day. I think I have everything cleared up except this...

At idle it really sounds rough. I think it is missing. I have checked plug wires 3 times now, everything looks ok. Once you give it a little throttle it will coughs and sputters, but will catch it self and sounds pretty good around the 1000 rpm mark.

I checked the sticky about irregular idle. I cleaned the IAC with brake clean and checked vacuum lines. Everything is good.

I have 2 thoughts or concerns. First I had to space out my IAC when I removed my EGR so it would clear the Intake. I just used 1/4 plate of aluminum and drilled the holes ect.. I have read that some spacers work some don't...

My 2nd concern or thought is that this motor has sat for about 4 years. I read somewhere that injectors will go bad if not used. Is it possible that one is sticking untill you give it some throttle it opens up?

I checked codes everything passes on the KOEO. I get codes 12, 13, 21 on the KOER.

12 and 13 are TPS related to high and to low

21 is coolant temp out of range. The motor is warm when I'm doing this test so this is expected.

 

[HISSIN50]

Couple things I'm not sure of. I think you mean IAC, not IAT.

And the motor should indeed be hot before running the self tests. A cold motor can toss an ECT code, but a warm motor shouldnt. If applicable, I would address the ECT issue. Jrichker has a nifty chart of the resistance and temp values for checking sensor calibration.

One method of setting the hot idle is to have the IAC disconnected, so even if your idle plate is too restrictive, once the car is warm, it should be able to idle with no additional air from the IAC. This all depends upon how you set your idle though.

Let me also say that in my experience, after a long downtime, simply getting some miles on the car can helps some of the finer issues.

We assume things like plug wires and plugs are in good shape..................

Good luck with it.

 

[Roland69]

did you try a basic tune up

 

[roan65]

yes sorry IAC. I changed my original post... been a long day!

with this thing sounding so bad at idle, and I have open headers right now I didn't want to get it to warm.

I tried disconnecting the IAC and it just dies.

Right now I don't know if it is drivable. Once you put it in gear is spitters and pops, and won't hardly go.

is there a way to set idle mechanically?

 

[Roland69]

wouldn't running open headers make it idle funny or was it like that with an exhaust system.

 

[roan65]

Yes I have all new Distributer, cap, rotor, plugs, TFI, MAF, BPS, all relays are new, and coil. I also tried an extra TPS that I had, but will probably buy a new one toamrrow.

I can't get it timed because as soon as I pull the spout, it dies. I can't anyways, I just noticed I don't have a timing mark pointer, so I gotta locate or make one. It is hand tuned to idle best in it's current condtion.

 

[roan65]

roland, I'm not sure if open headers will cause the problem! That is good to know if that is true. I have an appoitment for exhaust first thing in the morning. I just put this motor in, so I Have never had full exhasut on it. The muffler shop said they wanted it running, so I was just trying to dial it in. It's already loaded on the trailer so hopefully that will cure it!

 

[Roland69]

I'm pretty sure it will make it run funny running open headers unless highly modified. I may be wrong but That's what I would suspect

 

[HISSIN50]

With a cold motor, the IAC is needed. So that sounds normal.

The lack of O2's will kinda play with your ability to tune.

Here is some info about setting the idle. It might help you now or after the exhaust install (simply being able to warm the car up will help. LOL).

And that reminds me - make sure the shop tosses in some O2 bungs for you.

Good luck.