Running HOT HOT HOT, help me out

[battyice]

If you're still running a stock EFI setup I would steer clear of a 160 degree t-stat. With such a thermostat, many cars won't fully exit the "warm-up" mode because the ECU doesn't think the engine is at operating temperature. I would recommend going with a 180 t-stat by Mr. Gasket, you can get them from Jegs.

 

[Daggar]

If you're still running a stock EFI setup I would steer clear of a 160 degree t-stat. With such a thermostat, many cars won't fully exit the "warm-up" mode because the ECU doesn't think the engine is at operating temperature. I would recommend going with a 180 t-stat by Mr. Gasket, you can get them from Jegs.

This is so damned true!!! I experienced that very thing just yesterday at the end of installing my supercharger. The car believed that it was cold the whole time it was running and ran very very rich from idle all the way through the powerband. I swapped in a 180* this morning (after much cussing due to a lost bolt) and the air/fuel ratio is now, right where it should be.

Also, the part about ordering a quality piece from Jegs or Summit is a great idea as well. They're are considerably more accurate than the regular ole' parts store special and a 180* t-stat actually opens at 180. Not 185 to 195.

 

[89SaleenGT]

If you're still running a stock EFI setup I would steer clear of a 160 degree t-stat. With such a thermostat, many cars won't fully exit the "warm-up" mode because the ECU doesn't think the engine is at operating temperature. I would recommend going with a 180 t-stat by Mr. Gasket, you can get them from Jegs.

X2 BTDT
Quote:
"That should be plenty of airflow, especially with cast iron heads. If it still wants to run warm after you get the system burped make sure you have the air diverter that goes under the radiator support. Then look into sealing air paths back around the radiator from the engine compartment, this was costing me 15-20*F in cooling capability"

X2 again. You will also notice that the A/C will blow cooler. I made sure all the possible air leaks around the radiator were covered. I ended up making some templates out of cardboard then transferring them to fiberglass. As stated air leaks cost 15-20° in colling capacity.

 

[HISSIN50]

X2 BTDT
Quote:
"That should be plenty of airflow, especially with cast iron heads. If it still wants to run warm after you get the system burped make sure you have the air diverter that goes under the radiator support. Then look into sealing air paths back around the radiator from the engine compartment, this was costing me 15-20*F in cooling capability"

X2 again. You will also notice that the A/C will blow cooler. I made sure all the possible air leaks around the radiator were covered. I ended up making some templates out of cardboard then transferring them to fiberglass. As stated air leaks cost 15-20° in colling capacity.

It's been a couple years now - I hope the issue is fixed.

 

[89SaleenGT]

OH MY BAAADD!!

Didn't notice the date. Yeah hope things are straightend out by now.

I'll have to pay a little more attention to the post date.