Engine Running Issue after rebuild

M

MattRRT

Member

Dec 9, 2020

12

1

13

Charlotte NC

Jun 29, 2021

#1

• Jun 29, 2021

• #1

1987 5.0 Manual, timing chain broke after I finally had it running well

Rebuilt with an upgraded cam. Original heads with a valve kit. Gear driven timing. Newer explorer intake

Harness and A9L computer out of an 89 for the MAF conversion.

EGR deleted since it has a newer explorer intake. All other smog was deleted before purchase.

This is a video of how its running. And what I did with timing. If I turn the idle down much more it stalls.

HELP! I am a novice, I have really only wrenched on Toyota's and no real expirience of this level.

Thoughts? Timing? Fuel? EEC?

Timing YouTube Link

 

M

MattRRT

Member

Dec 9, 2020

12

1

13

Charlotte NC

Jun 29, 2021

#2

• Jun 29, 2021

• #2

Codes;
67
81
82
85
95

 

M

MattRRT

Member

Dec 9, 2020

12

1

13

Charlotte NC

Jun 29, 2021

#3

• Jun 29, 2021

• #3

Watching the video again, the sploog was back on for the video but the timing was set with it off

 

M

MattRRT

Member

Dec 9, 2020

12

1

13

Charlotte NC

Jun 29, 2021

#4

• Jun 29, 2021

• #4

Fixed the link to YouTube

 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

5 Year Member

Aug 25, 2016

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polk county florida

Jun 30, 2021

#5

• Jun 30, 2021

• #5

Watch the timing light, it flickers like the engine has a miss.
You sure the firing order is correct?
What cam did you install and why the gears and not a chain?

 

M

MattRRT

Member

Dec 9, 2020

12

1

13

Charlotte NC

Jun 30, 2021

#6

• Jun 30, 2021

• #6

Some of that is frame rate capture. I triple checked it today, the firing order is correct.

Today I purchased a test light for the ignition and when I rev it up, it misses on multiple cylinders, (2, 3, and 6) at the 2000rpm range

 

M

MattRRT

Member

Dec 9, 2020

12

1

13

Charlotte NC

Jun 30, 2021

#7

• Jun 30, 2021

• #7

I didnt check every cylinder out of frustration with the day, but can if it would make a difference.

Try a different distributor?

 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

5 Year Member

Aug 25, 2016

27,872

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polk county florida

Jul 1, 2021

#8

• Jul 1, 2021

• #8

Start with looking at the distributor cap, the distributor can develop side play causing a random cylinder misfire, sometimes the cap will show scrape marks.
plug wires can cause random misfire too.

 

M

MattRRT

Member

Dec 9, 2020

12

1

13

Charlotte NC

Jul 3, 2021

#9

• Jul 3, 2021

• #9

So thinking about the relay code, I swapped the AC relay for the fuel pump relay ( no AC in the car anymore) and it runs MUCH better now.

Still stumbles a bit here and there so I'm gonna do the fuel filter now. We will see

 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

5 Year Member

Aug 25, 2016

27,872

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polk county florida

Jul 4, 2021

#10

• Jul 4, 2021

• #10

The occasional stumble is usually an electrical issue, ten pin connectors (salt and pepper shakers) , plug wires, that kind of thing.

 

M

MattRRT

Member

Dec 9, 2020

12

1

13

Charlotte NC

Jul 5, 2021

#11

• Jul 5, 2021

• #11

General karthief said:

The occasional stumble is usually an electrical issue, ten pin connectors (salt and pepper shakers) , plug wires, that kind of thing.

Click to expand...

now it’s stumbling consistently at 2500, can accelerate through it now. I did do the fuel filter

I ordered a new injector harness, was hoping I wouldn’t need it (I’m way over budget) so I may give that a shot.

I may start checking injectors too

 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

5 Year Member

Aug 25, 2016

27,872

10,542

203

polk county florida

Jul 5, 2021

#12

• Jul 5, 2021

• #12

Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"

Updated 26-Oct-2019 to clarify creeping idle RPM increase as the car is being driven. Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank Checklist. They are very effective in finding and eliminating the problems by use of...

forums.stangnet.com

 

M

MattRRT

Member

Dec 9, 2020

12

1

13

Charlotte NC

Jul 5, 2021

#13

• Jul 5, 2021

• #13

I am wondering how much this has to do with it

Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis ground where the battery pigtail ground connects. The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side handles just as much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.

 

M

MattRRT

Member

Dec 9, 2020

12

1

13

Charlotte NC

Jul 7, 2021

#14

• Jul 7, 2021

• #14

OK so I have replaced 2 relays. Reset the EEC (battery disconnect with headlights on)

It ran fine while cold, once warm it started stumbling again. The only non-smog related code is 95, secondary fuel relay.

I am going to do the check on the inertia switch that I found elsewhere on this forum.

Fuel pressure check is 45 pounds with out without the FPR hooked up to vacuum. Any thoughts?