When you swapped out the intake did you reconnect the ground wire and when you did the swap you put the corresponding bottom ?
Maybe instead of going by the words of the grapevine you should go to the source...Theres lots of TECHNICAL INFO TO KNOW BEFORE INSTALLATION...
On my Edelbrock intake #3881 theres a snowballs chance in hell that both would mate up perfectly as the stock intake has oval ports and the Edelbrock intake has rectangular ports...
Its been years but from what I remember my buddy had a EFI performer intake too and when he installed it he had problems but found out he failed to install a baffle plate and didnt install the egr plate either....Both parts mentioned plus all emissions hookups were definately needed to be hooked-up after calling Edelbrock fuming and finding out the old owner of the intake was the problem because he bought it used off craigslist and actually should of bought a new one because the missing parts costed him a pretty penny and 5 weeks time to get them........LOL
When the intake was swapped out there were a number of things that got disconnected..Id go back and inspect every plug that was pulled because sometimes those connectors dont go back on all the way but feel like they hit home....The MAP BAP TPS also TFI module and AIT sensor plugs are famous for this...
Like others have said you need the MassAirflow sensor ...Its the primary form of measurement and the TPS becomes a slave to it...You kinda need the BAP too unless you put a resistor or have a chip w/tuner program......
Once you disconnect the MAF the ECU is supposed to go into Limp Mode if the BAP and TPS sensors are good.........
With the EEC-IV system when my MAF totally fails I dont get a code...I only get a code for the MAF if the power or signals arent processing correctly with-in the ECU which is weird but from memory I think it has its own internal chip too making it kind of a standalone sensor even though its wired in and sensed by the ECU the ECU goes by the MAF's parameters that are programmed in so if you use a different size MAF youre gonna have to get a chip and do a MAF transfer profile enhancement or find someone who can erase your bin file and burn a new one with proper changes........
Another thing to note is I recently was informed that Moates is discontinuing their chips, chip repairs also technical support and going into retirement so the only alternative is the non-EEC-IV based but in a EEC-IV case ;- The Pimp Megasquirt system..........
The way I know when my MAF isnt working is by hooking up my laptop to it and use my Moates dashboard to read the voltage or hooking it up to my Matco OB2 reader and right now I bet youre saying that the EEC-IV is OBD1 and it is- but with one of these adapters below I can use the PID from the Matco handheld and a download from the internet to read vehicle vitals as its running and even not running plus I also go right to the MAF when my vehicle starts up and instantly shuts off like the battery in my QH chip died or starts up and instantly bogs down and shuts when the throttle is cracked like I lost fuel pressure........
A friend of mine bought an 89 and the old owner changed the longblock out and when removing the engine he mustve snagged the MAF plug on the block when yanking the engine out because the wires under the loom were stretched so badly there was literally 3 strands on 2 wires making the flow of juice not happen right and wasnt too good but with a multimeter the problem was found because those wires showed high resistance plus they intermingled when I did a cross-wire test on the other wires on the MAF plug....
Alls you have to do is disconnect the ECU plug from the ECU and use this schematic starting at pin #1 go down the line pin by pin with one probe and hook the other probe to its corresponding termination to see if you get an audible beep and then touch the other pins to make sure theyre not melted or rubbed raw somewhere in the harnesss causing a short to the same wire.....
Another problem area are the Salt and Pepper shakers......10-12 years ago on another buddies car his connectors were a lil toasty due to a brake fluid fire and he needed to repin every wire in both connectors both male and female sides but opted to use solder and shrink tubing to hardwire the ECU harness to the Injector harness.......
It took a lil bit using a cheap Radioshack 40watt soldering iron outside in 50 degree weather but the car actually ran way better than before the fire too.....
Good Luck