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Running super rich

  • Thread starter Thread starter 00Blackgtvert
  • Start date Start date Apr 11, 2007

00Blackgtvert

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
118
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Northeast PA
Apr 11, 2007
#1
  • Apr 11, 2007
  • #1
Well i havent been on in a while but i just took the car out of storage and i came upon an old problem. My car is running super rich. Like i smell pure gas when i smell the exhaust. what could be my problem, is ther anything i can do or do i need a tune up?
 
R

Red2000GT

Founding Member
Sep 10, 2000
2,450
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46
Regina,Sask.Canada
Apr 12, 2007
#2
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #2
Possibly your long-tubes have cooled the o2 sensors to the point they aren't working properly. If they've got some miles on them they may just need replacement.
 

topless98gt

Adhesive Feces
Mar 31, 2005
182
0
17
Arlington, TX
Apr 12, 2007
#3
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #3
Are you throwing any codes by chance? I'm pretty sure that the o2 sensors would be throwing fault codes if it were the case that they are going bad.

The IAT could be bad, not sending a good temp for enough air to mix with the fuel. Use a multimeter to test that. Just do this to test the IAT:

1. Remove it from the car.
2. Probe at outside temp and write down resistance.
3. Stick in freezer for a few minutes.
4. Probe again immediate after removing and write down resistance.

Is there any noticeable change in resistance? If not, then your IAT is bad, which should throw a code as well.

Do you by chance have an aftermarket intake?

I noticed that your exhaust has SOME back pressure, so that shouldn't be the cause of you running rich. This is currently the problem I am having, I have no back pressure and my AFR is dropping to nearly 11:1 in the higher RPMs.

But yeah, let me know how the IAT test goes.
 

00Blackgtvert

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
118
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Northeast PA
Apr 12, 2007
#4
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #4
ok my check engine light is on so that would mean im throwing a code right? unfortunatly i dont have a tuner to check the code.
 

Dope 97GT

New Member
Jul 16, 2005
439
0
0
Rochester, NY (SUNY Brockport)
Apr 12, 2007
#5
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #5
go to an autoparts store like an autozone or something they can check the code for you for free. Dont let them tell you what it says but get the actual alpha numeric code and then post it up.
 

topless98gt

Adhesive Feces
Mar 31, 2005
182
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17
Arlington, TX
Apr 12, 2007
#6
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #6
So yeah, it's most likely your o2 sensors if you're throwing a code. But yes, when your CEL (Check Engine Light) or often called SES (Service Engine Soon) light is on, that means you are "throwing a code."

But like Dope said, please go to the nearest Autozone (other autoparts stores may check for this for free as well) and have them check it for you.

Please have a pen and paper ready when you go so that you can write down the codes. The codes will look something like this: P0136, P1112, etc.

Please let us know
 

00Blackgtvert

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Apr 11, 2005
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Northeast PA
Apr 12, 2007
#7
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #7
alright ill try to get tht done soon hopefully i can clear this problem up at atimes its to the point it smells like gas in the car
 

topless98gt

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Mar 31, 2005
182
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Arlington, TX
Apr 12, 2007
#8
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #8
00Blackgtvert said:
alright ill try to get tht done soon hopefully i can clear this problem up at atimes its to the point it smells like gas in the car
Click to expand...
Do you carry a gas can in your car? I've had a problem with plastic gas cans leaking in my trunk, making it smell horrid.

Also, is your car running limp or anything?
 

00Blackgtvert

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
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Apr 12, 2007
#9
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #9
running limp? as in
 

topless98gt

Adhesive Feces
Mar 31, 2005
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Apr 12, 2007
#10
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #10
Not full power, as if you have like 3 air conditioners going at once.
 

00Blackgtvert

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
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Northeast PA
Apr 12, 2007
#11
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #11
yeah it feels that way sometimes, didnt get to a parts store today
 

00Blackgtvert

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
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Northeast PA
Apr 12, 2007
#12
  • Apr 12, 2007
  • #12
isnt there a way to check the code by mesing with the diagnostic through the odometer
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
Apr 13, 2007
#13
  • Apr 13, 2007
  • #13
00Blackgtvert said:
isnt there a way to check the code by mesing with the diagnostic through the odometer
Click to expand...

Nope, that only reads ICM ( instrument cluster module) and will not read any codes from the PCM,ABS or any body modules

See my sticky at the top of the forum..
 

00Blackgtvert

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
118
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0
Northeast PA
Apr 13, 2007
#14
  • Apr 13, 2007
  • #14
well i guess i have to go to autozone and get the code read.
 

Dusstbuster

I love meat more than anything! I just have a spec
May 31, 2004
1,462
33
64
Moorhead, Minnesota
Apr 13, 2007
#15
  • Apr 13, 2007
  • #15
The car also adjusts the AFR when it throws certain codes I thought and makes it run rich to save the engine from a lean-out or something...that could also be why it's running richer. I'm not sure if a High-flow cat allows more fuel smell through than a stock H-pipe but if it's as bad as people make O/R pipes out to be + running rich I bet that could be part of your problem. Only way to tell though is autozone.
 

00Blackgtvert

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
118
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0
Northeast PA
Apr 13, 2007
#16
  • Apr 13, 2007
  • #16
hopefully i can get there saturday. how much do new o2 sensors run incase that the problem, and is that a job i can do myself?
 

topless98gt

Adhesive Feces
Mar 31, 2005
182
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Apr 13, 2007
#17
  • Apr 13, 2007
  • #17
They run anywhere from $50 and up, I think. If you have to replace them, spend the extra few bucks to get wide-band sensors. Bosch makes a really good wide-band sensor.

If you can use a crescent wrench to unscrew the o2 sensor from the mid-pipe, and you can unplug the o2 sensor from the wire hardness, then you can do it.

IMHO, I would NEVER pay ANYONE to put new o2 sensors in. Depending on how hard they are to get out of the pipe, it could be short as a 5 minute job.

The only tools that are required are the correct size crescent wrench (sorry, I don't know the size off hand), a ramps/jack+stands, and the new o2 sensors, and POSSIBLY PB blaster (rust agent).

Let us know how the code diagnoses turns out. I can almost guarantee from the symptoms that it's one, if not both, of your rear o2 sensors.

P.S. Did this problem happen before or after you installed the catted H pipe?

I ask this because some cats may still require MIL Eliminators ($50 or so depending on where you get them). What these do is trick the car into thinking the car has proper cat filtering.
 

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Jul 24, 2003
2,872
3
48
StateCollege PA
Apr 13, 2007
#18
  • Apr 13, 2007
  • #18
you know, i started my car few days ago for the first time since late october, and my car is running super rich too. Like i can see a smoke comeout from tail pipe when I rev it little.

I wonder if this has something to do with the fact battery was completely dead??
 

topless98gt

Adhesive Feces
Mar 31, 2005
182
0
17
Arlington, TX
Apr 13, 2007
#19
  • Apr 13, 2007
  • #19
mity2 said:
you know, i started my car few days ago for the first time since late october, and my car is running super rich too. Like i can see a smoke comeout from tail pipe when I rev it little.

I wonder if this has something to do with the fact battery was completely dead??
Click to expand...
If I read it correctly, he said it was an old problem, meaning that it was a problem before he stored it.

But mity, it's possible that your ECU got reset and the car hasn't adapted to the exhaust yet. IMO, you should always disconnect the battery if you think you're going to store it for more than a week or so.
 

00Blackgtvert

New Member
Apr 11, 2005
118
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0
Northeast PA
Apr 13, 2007
#20
  • Apr 13, 2007
  • #20
as i remember i have had this problem since maybe 3 months after my longtube install
 
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