mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Engine Runs Badly When Warm
- Thread starter Mantoga320
- Start date
We had blocked off the EGR at the spacer with some high temp gasket material as part of the initial troubleshooting. We found the throttle and intake were fairly coked up from the exhaust gasses over the years. I had never pulled the TB and EGR spacer, and the studs were were rusted to the EGR spacer because of coolant seeping in. Using WD-40 and double-nutting the studs, I was able to get 3 unscrewed from the upper intake manifold. One was too tough, though, and the stud sheared at the spacer. We pulled the whole upper intake off and then were able to rotate the whole EGR spacer to get it out. These studs are not so available online, except as part of a kit for about 40-50 dollars. But if you measure carefully, you can get bolts at the hardware store that will work. Just for fun and future upgrading, I put on a 70mm BBK TB/EGR spacer as a replacement, and, yes, applied anti-seize to the bolts. I got the functional EGR spacer instead of a blank one, in case I wanted to hook everything up again. ATM the EGR is blocked off at the spacer, and no Check Engine Light, and the coolant lines are capped.
Now that it's running smoothly again I'll probably try to reconnect everything. I read there are some advantages to hooking it up, if it's working.
I've got my eye on the Edelbrock Performer RPM2 Intake Manifold as a replacement to match the new throttle body.
Now that it's running smoothly again I'll probably try to reconnect everything. I read there are some advantages to hooking it up, if it's working.
I've got my eye on the Edelbrock Performer RPM2 Intake Manifold as a replacement to match the new throttle body.
I do not think your comment about the TPS is accurate, is a bit misleading or just a matter of terminology, Yes, the computer takes a reading when the ignition is turned on or motor started then it calculates from there. But if the TPS is not initially set within the specified range, the computer will spit up error codes like you stated. And in my car’s case, it idles poorly and and is unhappy with anything less than full throttle. The first time I went through @jrichker ’s instructions, my recently purchased car suddenly became much more fun to drive on the street.
When I added my BBK TB, EGR spacer, and MAF, the TPS would not twist far enough to get the voltage down to a bolt or less. A “needle” rat tail file made quick work of that. I had to have a larger throttle opening at idle for the cam. I could probably use an adjustable air plate like Ford put in some trucks, but now my IAC can do its job.
Why do you have the EGR blocked off? Blocking it should not help your performance as it is not used at full throttle and the computer is calculating the in the recycled gas for max mileage and less detonation at cruising. Besides fresh air is better for us all, especially when the only down side is a little weight for parts the computer wants to see anyway.
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The Edelbrock manifolds look nice. To make the RPM 2 work it’s best, you need more than the TB/EGR and MAF upgraded. Heads, cam and exhaust really should be upgraded to get Autobahn RPM range use out of it. Then you need to think about the transmission and rear axles, maybe the driveshaft, too.
As you reed more on this site, you will see how highly rated the cast GT-40 Ford manifold is.(You will also want to save and print out EVERY tech how to @jrichker has typed up and many other tech articles/swap guides. You will know more than the Ford mechanics, and with OBD1and the EECIV, that is a very good thing!)
Anyway, Where do you get thy GT-40 like cast manifold, besides from a 93 Cobra Stang or a Chinese reproduction? It is in disguise as an Explorer/ Mountaineer 302/5.0 intake manifold! I do not know if Ford sold them in Germany. If I recall right, the 96-7 USA ones have the internal EGR passages like stock Mustang ones. Tose passages changed on later ones, but if you do not want to use EGR, the later ones will be fine.
@tmoss ported my lower half, and it looks like golf balls will flow smoothly through it. I opened the upper half to match the larger TB/EGR plate and smooth out the bolt bumps back as far as I could reach. For much less than a new manifold, I have a nice looking intake that outflows most everything in the power band I need for hot street driving.
If you have Monster heads, cam and exhaust planned, the RPM line may fit your ultimate goal better. But my quarter mile times say I have 325-350 Hp at the wheels, and I think that is plenty for the T-5 and stock rear end in a light body.
I envy you getting to drive enthusiastically without worrying about a serious ticket! Sections of our interstate highways in the central states would be just fine for such driving - if the trucks would stay to the right - but the nanny state (disguised as Uncle Sam) has to take care of us.
As you reed more on this site, you will see how highly rated the cast GT-40 Ford manifold is.(You will also want to save and print out EVERY tech how to @jrichker has typed up and many other tech articles/swap guides. You will know more than the Ford mechanics, and with OBD1and the EECIV, that is a very good thing!)
Anyway, Where do you get thy GT-40 like cast manifold, besides from a 93 Cobra Stang or a Chinese reproduction? It is in disguise as an Explorer/ Mountaineer 302/5.0 intake manifold! I do not know if Ford sold them in Germany. If I recall right, the 96-7 USA ones have the internal EGR passages like stock Mustang ones. Tose passages changed on later ones, but if you do not want to use EGR, the later ones will be fine.
@tmoss ported my lower half, and it looks like golf balls will flow smoothly through it. I opened the upper half to match the larger TB/EGR plate and smooth out the bolt bumps back as far as I could reach. For much less than a new manifold, I have a nice looking intake that outflows most everything in the power band I need for hot street driving.
If you have Monster heads, cam and exhaust planned, the RPM line may fit your ultimate goal better. But my quarter mile times say I have 325-350 Hp at the wheels, and I think that is plenty for the T-5 and stock rear end in a light body.
I envy you getting to drive enthusiastically without worrying about a serious ticket! Sections of our interstate highways in the central states would be just fine for such driving - if the trucks would stay to the right - but the nanny state (disguised as Uncle Sam) has to take care of us.
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Agreed. Blocking it was a tip from a local mechanic when we were troubleshooting the problem. Though one reason I could give for blocking it off (speaking as a high mileage owner) is that from the TB to the heads we found the surfaces were coated in carbon residue and gunk. I think if you have a shiny new ported intake, this might be a concern? Maybe it's some other issue, but I felt it was from the exhaust gases going back through. I was reading that the computer just takes the EGR system out of the loop when it sees it as faulty, and the gas in Germany starts at 95 octane, so I'm not too worried about detonation, but we might be losing some MPG. But I'm up for reconnecting EGR and coolant hoses and seeing how it does.
Parts are a bit of an issue for me. I'm tending to go with the online parts stores, because some are now using UPS international with shipping and taxes prepaid, and it comes to my door. Anything else is a headache with Customs. I should check to see if any of those Explorers are to be found here, though. The exhaust is already done, and it sounds goooood. The other stuff is on the wish list. The good part is that, yeah, it is pretty fun to drive it around southern Germany. On a nice day we'll grab the keys with the pony logo and go tooling around. The countryside is beautiful. The secondary roads are limited to 60mph, but there are plenty of good passing opportunities (it's all about the torque!), and then we'll take it on a stretch of Autobahn to make sure it's still smooth at 120mph. Of course, every BMW/Audi/Mercedes left-lane driver who sees us is suddenly on a mission to pass, but I gotta let 'em go.
Blown88GT
Founding Member
FYI, it called a Ford Idle Air Adjuster Spacer & that's exactly what it's used for then & now.
I bought one a while back, it worked, but don't need it any more.
Lived there for 5 years. Be careful applying the octane logic as it is measured differently there. Memory does not serve me all that well, but I believe the top octane there is comparable to 93 octane in the states, despite what the number at the pump says.
I did a little research. It is measured differently, and the article I read there claimed that America average RON with MON. Those stand for "research Octane number" and "Motor Octance Number." In America, those are averaged to give the number at the pump. Typically, MON is about 10 lower than RON. Therefore, 98 octane in Germany would be equal to 93 here. 95 is equal to 91 here.
Bottom line: Don't skimp on the fuel quality you're running there. If you need premium in the states, you need it there, too.
Bottom line: Don't skimp on the fuel quality you're running there. If you need premium in the states, you need it there, too.
Thanks for the info. I always wondered why the numbers ran higher here. Didn't make sense. A couple of years ago they started pricing "super" the same as "regular" unleaded, and now "super" is the lowest available,and some pumps have an "ultra". (of course, I want the super mega ultra turbo full HD with nano technology unleaded, but who can afford that?!)
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