Russian Roulette......

streethorse · May 26, 2012

Well I changed out my spark plugs on my 06 GT today, followed all the rules, and all is goood!
All 8 creaked and moaned all the way out even with pleanty of PB Blaster.
the car has 65k on it and this made a nice improvement>
The Dealer actually wanted $600. to do it.
I paid $70. at AM for the Motorcraft plugs and free labor by me.....

GoneFord · May 28, 2012

Congrats!

streethorse · May 28, 2012

Thanks man!

joe_momma · Jun 22, 2012

Is there an issue with the plugs on the '06s? I just picked up a GT this week, but it only has 6k on it.

streethorse · Jun 22, 2012

joe_momma said:
Is there an issue with the plugs on the '06s? I just picked up a GT this week, but it only has 6k on it.

Yes my friend there is a problem, but you wont have to worry about it for 50k miles from now thats the good news!
The bad news is that the plugs can easily break off in the head during removal

joe_momma · Jun 26, 2012

OK, so after reading up on this, I've decided that this weekend I'm going to take my plugs out and apply some anti-seize. Here's the procedure I'm using, correct me if you see anything wrong:
1 - cold engine
2 - remove coil packs
3 - loosen plugs 1/8 - 1/4 turn, blast with PB Blaster
4 - sit for 15-20 minutes
5 - remove plugs, alternating between loosen/tighten
6 - apply anti-seize
7 - reinstall stock plugs
8 - reinstall coil packs

I do have one question concerning the socket though...it's a 9/16" right? Does it require a deep-well or anything like that? I remember reading that you need 10-12" worth of extension, but what about the socket itself?

bigb427 · Jun 26, 2012

You will no doubt get differing opinions on this, however as someone who has performed on average 5-20 tune ups a week on 4.6/5.4 3-valve engines for many years now, I will post my opinion.

1st, plan on breaking at least one plug. You might get lucky, but you might not. If you aren't prepared for this to happen do not do the job until you are prepared, or have someone else do the job.
2nd, use carburetor cleaner, not penetrating oil. You are working against varnish, not rust.
3rd, if you really, really, really want to try to reuse the original plugs, let it sit overnight, not 15-20 minutes.
4th, get a 9/16" socket specifically designed for removing these spark plugs. It is a deep well design, but if you use a standard deep well socket you will almost certainly break or crack a plug either when removing it, or tightening it.
5th, take your time removing the plugs, and absolutely do not forget to alternate on loosening a little/tightening a little back & forth as you posted above.
6th, remember - even if you do everything perfect, you still might break at least one plug.

Good Luck!

joe_momma · Jun 26, 2012

Thanks for the tips b! Even though it's an '06, it still has less than 7k on her. Do you think I'll still have issues?

bigb427 · Jun 26, 2012

7000 miles on a 06? Damn, if you aren't gonna drive it, why'd you buy it?

The lower the mileage, the less likely you are going to have a problem. I wouldn't think you'd have a problem, but never say never!

DrSmith · Jun 26, 2012

bigb427 said:
You will no doubt get differing opinions on this, however as someone who has performed on average 5-20 tune ups a week on 4.6/5.4 3-valve engines for many years now, I will post my opinion.

1st, plan on breaking at least one plug. You might get lucky, but you might not. If you aren't prepared for this to happen do not do the job until you are prepared, or have someone else do the job.
2nd, use carburetor cleaner, not penetrating oil. You are working against varnish, not rust.
3rd, if you really, really, really want to try to reuse the original plugs, let it sit overnight, not 15-20 minutes.
4th, get a 9/16" socket specifically designed for removing these spark plugs. It is a deep well design, but if you use a standard deep well socket you will almost certainly break or crack a plug either when removing it, or tightening it.
5th, take your time removing the plugs, and absolutely do not forget to alternate on loosening a little/tightening a little back & forth as you posted above.
6th, remember - even if you do everything perfect, you still might break at least one plug.

Good Luck!

Where did you buy the specific 9/16 socket? I have to do this before I put the super charger on.....
thanks!

bigb427 · Jun 26, 2012

This is what I use, I don't remember where exactly I got it from: http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-3931.aspx

joe_momma · Jun 27, 2012

I just picked it up a couple of weeks ago....apparently it was previously owned by a couple for their "weekend" car or whatever.

As far as the specific socket tool, I found one on Amazon that has an extension already built in, no need to worry about that coming off during install or removal. I think it was $17 or so. Expensive for a limited use item, but I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.

B - hopefully this goes smoothly! I'm really just trying to head off any issues down the road. I'm wanting to get some anti-seize on the plugs for now.

bigb427 · Jun 27, 2012

Cool, let someone else take the hit on depreciation, and you get a practically new car - gotta love it!

In my experience antiseize doesn't really help. It's not going to hurt though, so if it makes you sleep better - go for it! The problem isn't with rusted/seized threads, but with varnish build up on the ground shell which protrudes past the threads into the combustion chamber. Putting antiseize on the threads isn't going to help with this problem. I've seen people put antiseize on the shell itself, but that will burn off and varnish will build up again over time.

The way I see it, people have two options to avoid broken plugs. Run a product like "Seafoam" through the intake at regular intervals to help with the varnish build up and replace the plugs at 60K miles, or replace the plugs with an aftermarket one piece design (be certain that they are in fact a one piece design, don't just buy them because they are supposed to be "great spark plugs" or "high performance") which won't break off even if there is substantial varnish build up.

In my opinion, based on lots of experience repairing vehicles coming in with concerns of all types and having aftermarket spark plugs of every conceivable manufacturer, nothing is going to perform better and give you less problems than Motorcraft spark plugs. I would never use anything except them in anything of mine, or of anyone who asks me. I do not know who sells one piece plugs, and don't really care, but I am certain of one thing, there is absolutely no aftermarket spark plug that gives more people problems than Champion. Put them in your lawn mower or your chrysler, don't put them in a Ford. Just my 02 cents.

joe_momma · Jun 27, 2012

Good to know b...
I always use Seafoam in my mower/weedeater/blower at home - never thought to use it in a vehicle.
Funny you mention Champion - they are the primary mfg I see advertise a one-piece design (the 7989 or whatever it is). I did see some other mfgs while browsing for plugs, but didn't know anything about them - been out of the loop for a few years. E3, NGK, etc...

streethorse · Jun 28, 2012

joe_momma said:
OK, so after reading up on this, I've decided that this weekend I'm going to take my plugs out and apply some anti-seize. Here's the procedure I'm using, correct me if you see anything wrong:
1 - cold engine
2 - remove coil packs
3 - loosen plugs 1/8 - 1/4 turn, blast with PB Blaster
4 - sit for 15-20 minutes
5 - remove plugs, alternating between loosen/tighten
6 - apply anti-seize
7 - reinstall stock plugs
8 - reinstall coil packs

I do have one question concerning the socket though...it's a 9/16" right? Does it require a deep-well or anything like that? I remember reading that you need 10-12" worth of extension, but what about the socket itself?

Your 8 steps was pretty much exactly how I did it. I used a 1/2" drive ratchet with an 18" extention.
You will need a 9/16th deep well socket. I put a rubber O ring up in the socket to grab the spark plug tip
so it doesnt fall back in. Just go slow and steady with even pressure and you should be OK.

joe_momma · Jun 28, 2012

I ordered the socket with the built in extension off of Amazon earlier in the week; it should be on the doorstep when I get home this evening. Hope to complete this little task on Saturday morning before it gets too hot.

streethorse · Jun 28, 2012

joe_momma said:
I ordered the socket with the built in extension off of Amazon earlier in the week; it should be on the doorstep when I get home this evening. Hope to complete this little task on Saturday morning before it gets too hot.

You should get new plugs for sure, they have been upgraded by Ford....... Motorcraft SP-514 $70. do it.

rebus · Jun 29, 2012

If you have a beam type torque wrench use that to remove the plugs and don't exceed 33 ft lbs. Use nickel antisieze on the barrel, not the threads, Autolite has the entire removal procedure on their web site. Did mine for S/C install @ 26,000 mi. all came out like butter using PB blaster from autozone, except for the coldest cylinder # 1. Number one squeaked all the way out. Be careful about how much cleaner you use as it can leak into the bore and you can suffer hydraulic lock after installing new plugs and turning over the motor if you didn't clear the cylinders of excess cleaner. Compressed air helps a bunch.

bigb427 · Jun 29, 2012

rebus said:
...using PB blaster from autozone, ...Be careful about how much cleaner you use as it can leak into the bore and you can suffer hydraulic lock after installing new plugs and turning over the motor if you didn't clear the cylinders of excess cleaner.

Yet another reason to not use penetrating oil, but carb cleaner instead per my 2nd recommendation in post #7 above.

joe_momma · Jul 2, 2012

Well I tried this procedure over the weekend. I didn't have any luck - tried a couple of plugs and they wouldnt' budge. I was afraid to try any harder to be honest. I know they are supposed to be snug, but I felt like they were way too snug. So, I'm just going to leave them in for now.

Russian Roulette......

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