Rust on Window Belt

[DuluthFoxbody]

Not sure if it's called the belt or trim, but there is rust (hopefully only scale or surface rust) along these areas of the window. Looks like there might be a bit where that black quarter window trim starts too.

I understand it depends on the extent of the rust, but in terms of repair do you think this is a job for wire wheel or brush to remove the rust, sand, and then prime or paint? Or maybe use some rust converter or rust encapsulator and then paint? I remember reading these pieces have rivets holding them in, so if necessary maybe drill the rivets, remove, repair, and then reinstall? I have seen the different trim pieces that go under and around the windows, but not new versions of these.

Any best practices on how to approach this?

 

[KRUISR]

Looks typical of sun damaged trim. My son's car was similar. Pic below shows some of the damaged trim paint (look around the door).



I just sanded to smooth out the surface, no primer. I think I finished with 320 grit and then painted with satin trim paint.



I then installed new window run channel (not shown in the pics).

The trim at the bottom of the window is easily removed - a screw in rear door jam, then slide the trim rearward 1/2-1" and lift off. Then sand and repaint off the car - or replace with new.

If outer door belt moulding is worn (window seal along the bottom of glass) there is 3 or 4 rivets to drill out to remove. New replacements are available. If the upper rubber/felt edge is stiff, its time to replace - this piece seals water out of the door cavity along the lower edge of the glass.

Upper door frame and run channel frame are refinished on the car. The run channel weatherstripping (yours looks shot) can be left in for painting or removed, your choice. Only remove if replacing. There are no fasteners holding it in, just friction into the run channel. Mine are removed in the finished pics. When painting these you will want to mask off the rest of the car.



The upper door trim (above the door, attached to the pillar and roof). This can be removed. There is a screw near the side mirror on the A pillar and the trim is held to the roof pinch weld with three clips - similar the the windshield and back glass trims. Mine was filled with butyl for the rear 2/3 of the trim (same stuff that seals the quarter windows).



(pics I took so I could remember where the clips went). In the last two pics you can see the butyl.

 

[DuluthFoxbody]

Wow, that looks great! Thanks very much for the detailed reply; this helps a lot.

Was there a particular reason to not use a primer, or these just don't really need it?

 

[KRUISR]

After I sanded, it was smooth enough for the paint. I didn't want to bother with the extra step.

Priming would then need to be resanded back to a 320 or 400 grit.

 

[rednotch]

Mini da, 1-3" Scotch pads and a can of trim coat, can knock that out in an hour two for both, done that many times, since most that lived out side look like that now most do need new run channel liners, and the mirrors done at the same time though but if your only cleaning up the rusty look, trim coat and sanding it is fine. The Sem trim coat holds up very well direct to metal or over primer.

 

[DuluthFoxbody]

Mini da, 1-3" Scotch pads and a can of trim coat, can knock that out in an hour two for both, done that many times, since most that lived out side look like that now most do need new run channel liners, and the mirrors done at the same time though but if your only cleaning up the rusty look, trim coat and sanding it is fine. The Sem trim coat holds up very well direct to metal or over primer.

Thank you! Definitely reassuring to hear.