Safe Blower with stock internals?

El Chico

Founding Member
Sep 19, 2002
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Camp Lejeune, NC
Is there such a thing as a safe blower when all your internals are stock? I guess what I'm trying to get at is whether I should save a little more for a blower or stay N/A and get heads, cams, LTs, and Prochamber. The blower with no doubt give better numbers, but I don't think it's worth having all that power if your car is back in the shop because of a blown gasket or/and pistons.
 
Like Micool said, the key is the tune and not going past 13psi/450rwhp approx. This is the point at which some/most people have taken their stock engine to. On the other hand, others have went alot sooner from poor tunes, too much boost/HP, etc.

Stay under 400rwhp, get a GOOD tune, and around 10 pounds of boost, and you should be fine
Chad
 
With a supercharger and stock internals you are shortening the lifespan of the engine. If you keep your hp below 400 at or below 9 psi along with an intercooler to keep the heat down you should be ok for quite a while. Its a matter of when your engine is going not if it is. The same can be said for a stock engine its just when you supercharge your probably cutting the life of it down 20-30%. I consider that fairly safe considering these engines can handle 200k + consistantly.

I think the ideal plan is to make sure its possible to rebuild if you have to...if you absolutely are stretched with debt etc. i would not get a supercharger even if i had saved cash because you wont have any way to rebuild your engine if it blows.

kirkyg
 
Stay under 400rwhp, get a GOOD tune, and around 10 pounds of boost, and you should be fine


With that in mind, so what then? Should it be N/A or blower (like Vortech SQ or Novi 1000)? I'll soon have about 3 grand saved up for the NA parts like cams, heads, LTs, and Prochamber. That would get me around 310 natural power to the wheels. Then again I could save up about another 1500 bones and get a blower that would get me about 350 forced power to the wheels.
 
El Chico said:
Stay under 400rwhp, get a GOOD tune, and around 10 pounds of boost, and you should be fine


With that in mind, so what then? Should it be N/A or blower (like Vortech SQ or Novi 1000)? I'll soon have about 3 grand saved up for the NA parts like cams, heads, LTs, and Prochamber. That would get me around 310 natural power to the wheels. Then again I could save up about another 1500 bones and get a blower that would get me about 350 forced power to the wheels.
Blowers are just too damn cool though..........TOO MUCH FUN TO BE HAD!!!!!!! trust me.
 
El Chico said:
Stay under 400rwhp, get a GOOD tune, and around 10 pounds of boost, and you should be fine


With that in mind, so what then? Should it be N/A or blower (like Vortech SQ or Novi 1000)? I'll soon have about 3 grand saved up for the NA parts like cams, heads, LTs, and Prochamber. That would get me around 310 natural power to the wheels. Then again I could save up about another 1500 bones and get a blower that would get me about 350 forced power to the wheels.

I'm sorry dude but its going to be very difficult to get 310hp to the ground with those mods. I would suggest stroker if you just HAVE to go n/a. Its also going to cost more than 3000 if you plan to get anywhere near that power level. Your looking at 1500-2000 for headwork, 600 for cams, long tubes will run you about 600 coated, prochamber is 200, you'll probably want to increase your compression if your staying n/a so theres another 1500 for forged internals, etc.

kirkyg
 
El Chico said:
Stay under 400rwhp, get a GOOD tune, and around 10 pounds of boost, and you should be fine


With that in mind, so what then? Should it be N/A or blower (like Vortech SQ or Novi 1000)? I'll soon have about 3 grand saved up for the NA parts like cams, heads, LTs, and Prochamber. That would get me around 310 natural power to the wheels. Then again I could save up about another 1500 bones and get a blower that would get me about 350 forced power to the wheels.


Look at my Sig , 370rwhp 372rwtq, safe as all get up . couldnt be happier .
 
I'm sorry dude but its going to be very difficult to get 310hp to the ground with those mods. I would suggest stroker if you just HAVE to go n/a. Its also going to cost more than 3000 if you plan to get anywhere near that power level. Your looking at 1500-2000 for headwork, 600 for cams, long tubes will run you about 600 coated, prochamber is 200, you'll probably want to increase your compression if your staying n/a so theres another 1500 for forged internals, etc.

I know someone with the mods I listed to include C&L plenum with Accufab 75mm Throttle body and he dynoed at 315 to the wheels. I've already done the math and it'll be:

VT Stage 2 Heads and Cams - 2400
Bolts/gaskets/etc - 300
MAC LT - 350
Prochamber - 230

APPROX TOTAL = 3280

I'm getting 300 for selling my X-pipe to a friend. I think what kirkyg says is pretty logical though. I think with that natural power I could then work on the suspension to get the full effect of the power. Plus, adding a blower later down the line with everything to support it would put out a crazy amount of numbers.

Of course with a blower it's as simple as changing out the pully for more power but with that come the chances of everything *****ing itself.

I guess I'm just paranoid because I don't have the money to fix what breaks anytime soon or if at all depending on what it is that's broke. Can anyone help by giving me that warm and fuzzy feeling about what route to go?
 
with all due respect why would you be worried about babying your car if you were supercharging it. Now i dont drive like a maniac but i garantee if/when i get a supercharger im going to hit some pounds during daily driving for fun :D

kirkyg
 
VT Stage 2 Heads and Cams - 2400
Bolts/gaskets/etc - 300
MAC LT - 350
Prochamber - 230

APPROX TOTAL = 328
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with these mods, what will be the time @ 1/4?