Sagging Eibach Springs/ Unlevel Height?

HoustonGT

Gilded Gelding
Apr 6, 2003
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Houston
Hey guys, i just picked up a 2000 GT w/ modded suspension. It has Tokico Illumina Adjustable shocks/struts, and "red" Eibach lowering springs, any way to tell if they are the Pro-Kit or Sportlines? (also has caster camber plates and strut tower brace). The problem is the back seems lower than the front (barely 2 finger gap between fender and tire in back, 3 finger gap in front), do they tend to sag in the back over time or could it be that the front tires are 255/40/18 and the rears are 275/35/18? If so, i guess i'll just remove the isolators up front to level it out.
And could the setting on the shocks/struts be affecting the ride height in the back making it lower if they are set softer out back and more firm up front? Thanks
 
they're sportlines. mine are red, and i hated how they sagged in back on my car also

i swapped the rears for roush springs but it still only sat even, so finally, just recently, i took out both top and bottom isolators in front and now im finally happy with the drop. damn them sportlines and their sagginess :fuss:
 
TrueBlue03 said:
they're sportlines. mine are red, and i hated how they sagged in back on my car also

i swapped the rears for roush springs but it still only sat even, so finally, just recently, i took out both top and bottom isolators in front and now im finally happy with the drop. damn them sportlines and their sagginess :fuss:

So if i take the top isolators out up front will it at least sit level? Don't feel like shelling out 220 for some H&R's when i already have aftermarket springs
 
yea. i know what you mean man. it will probably still sit about even with the front isolators removed...mine now has a 2 finger gap in front with no isolators and sportlines in front. if you are concerned about taking out the isolators, you could always buy some adjustable lower control arms for the rear instead. Most of the adjustable ones allow you to raise the rear of the car by up to 2 inches!! and it'll improve your traction on launching!....just something to think about...
 
TrueBlue03 said:
yea. i know what you mean man. it will probably still sit about even with the front isolators removed...mine now has a 2 finger gap in front with no isolators and sportlines in front. if you are concerned about taking out the isolators, you could always buy some adjustable lower control arms for the rear instead. Most of the adjustable ones allow you to raise the rear of the car by up to 2 inches!! and it'll improve your traction on launching!....just something to think about...
Yea, i love how the back sits, its a great height, i just want the front to be the same. I think i'll try removing the top isolator and see if thats enough, kinda worried about removing both.
 
i've been posting this pic everywhere on stangnet lately because i just removed both isolators last week and i want to show how much it lowered my car. it lowered around 1/2" i believe...maybe even 2/3"...

isolator_compare_pic.jpg










it sucked tho dude without them removed epecially when you fill your gas tank and you got 2 people in the car...and i could just imagine my car saggin to about 1 finger gap in back and like 3 fingers in front and it just bugged the hell outta me!!! now im happy tho with the isolators out in front.




.
 
could always try getting a set of poly isolators for the rear to take up some of the slack back there and see if that makes a difference. If the stock rubber ones are getting worn they could cause it to sit a little lower... not sure how much lower though.
 
Alright i think the best route for me would be to take out the top isolators out up front and buy some poly isolators for the rear until i get my tax return in a few months and then i'll buy some H&R SuperSports. Should come out to only 30 bucks total and my buddies and i can do it ourselves. I can also go ahead and check the settings on the shocks/struts while im at it, cuz i think the back is too soft because when cornering at a high speed, it has a strong tendency to oversteer.

-TrueBlue03, can you tell me exacty what tools i will need (sockets and sizes)? I have a a good hydraulic floor jack, jack stands, and im gonna rent a spring compressor from Autozone. Anything else?
 
i didnt even need a spring compressor. first i undid the caliper bolts and tie rod and stuff. then i just pre loaded the suspension by placing a jack under the a arm and jackin it up just about 3 or 4" (while the car is already on jack stands) then unbolted the strut down behind the brake rotors and very slowly lowered the jack and the spring is just kinda sitting there and all you have to do is push down on the A arm with your hand a little, and it comes right out (probably because the sportline springs are so much shorter than stock).

I dont know what sizes of wrenches and sockets i used tho. i just dug through wrenches and sockets in my garage...sorry man. I do however have a couple good sites that you can refer to. The firt one unblots the strut at the bottom (by the brake rotor) and the second site unbolts the sturt at the top. (but you have to pay close attention to your allignment so you dont mess it up while you move things around)

http://www.yellowmustangregistry.com/vogtland.html


http://www.stangnet.com/tech/spring2.html


oh, and one last thing. I have seen some people H&R supersports sit pretty damn low in back ....the drop looked even front and back and also if you have sub or the battery in back, that may also mean that your car can still sit just even....even if you do go with H&R SS.
 
HoustonGT said:
Alright i think the best route for me would be to take out the top isolators out up front and buy some poly isolators for the rear until i get my tax return in a few months and then i'll buy some H&R SuperSports. Should come out to only 30 bucks total and my buddies and i can do it ourselves. I can also go ahead and check the settings on the shocks/struts while im at it, cuz i think the back is too soft because when cornering at a high speed, it has a strong tendency to oversteer.

-TrueBlue03, can you tell me exacty what tools i will need (sockets and sizes)? I have a a good hydraulic floor jack, jack stands, and im gonna rent a spring compressor from Autozone. Anything else?

Put the rear isolators in 1st and see how much gap you have between the front and the rear and if needed then take one out of the front. Better then taking one out of the front and installing the rears only to have the front way lower and the rear higher up afterwards.
 
Disturbed One said:
Put the rear isolators in 1st and see how much gap you have between the front and the rear and if needed then take one out of the front. Better then taking one out of the front and installing the rears only to have the front way lower and the rear higher up afterwards.
Yea i plan on doing that because i'd rather not take out the isolators, plus from what i hear, the rear suspension is alot easier to work on than the front:nice: