School me on heads and drivability

DucatiRdr · Nov 3, 2010

After owning the same Mustang since 1988 I still have less than 20K on the odometer. I have the easy bolt-ons done but the long block (exc for 1.72 RR) and intake are still stock as are the 3.08 gears. What has been holding me back are the compromises with heads and intake. I want to keep the stock speed density cam and the road manners that go with it (for now).

What I don't know is what it's like to live with heads and an intake? Is it herky-jerky from a stop? What's it like to drive in stop and go traffic? Will I lose a lot of the low end torque?

I have no aspirations of making this a strip car but I do want a kick ass road weapon that does a lot of things well. I want to keep up with my buddy's 2006 Camaro SS. It has to maintain low speed driveability but deliver that fat midrange that I have now. I want to keep the emissions functioning also.

I scored a great deal on an Edelbrock Performer intake and thought the logical mate was Performer heads, but I read those were one of the very first 5.0 Mustang designs and are a little tired. Will Trick Flows work well with my Edelbrock intake? GT-40X?

87mustang4001 · Nov 3, 2010

Easy fix

I have a 89 lx that I use as my daily driver. All I have done to it is- Ported the stock heads (new valve springs), E303cam, ported explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, and an adjustable fuel regulator. The fuel regulator is a must have in my opinion. The e cam keeps it very steetable below 3000rpm. but above that, watch out! no herky jerky, its smooth as silk. My neighbor has a 2001 stang, and this thing eats it alive 0-100. Very streetable set up, and great power and affordable. With the price of the intake ( got it from a junk yard) and the porting was $825. Just my opinion. P.S. Find a u pull it junk yard, its a great place to start. As for your friends car. Keep a 50 shot of nitrous in your back pocket. I had it on this car over the summer and it was a great little trick. super easy to hide and set up.

Mintsick · Nov 3, 2010

No such thing as a 2006 Camaro SS, but anyways if you match the components properly there is no reason it cannot be as well mannered as it is stock. I like the budget/oem ford parts route of grabbing a set of GT40/GT40P heads and explorer intake setup, should still make good power with the stock cam.

DucatiRdr · Nov 3, 2010

What? No 2006 SS? Just goes to show that I don't know my Camaros. He has a final year Camaro for sure. Thought it was an SS...guess it isn't.

The heads I'm considering are either the Edelbrock Performers or TFS 170 (fast as cast - whatever that means) w. 2.02 valves. I don't know what the 2.02" valves will do to my low end driveability, but the guy at Summit didn't think there would be a problem.

Remember, I already have an Edelbrock Performer intake sitting in my basement.
Would the TFS heads "clash" with the Eddy Performer I already have? The TFS are on sale at Summit for $949 and I have a 10% discount code, so the TFS are a deal that is hard to pass up.

2000xp8 · Nov 3, 2010

Twisted heads are good no matter what 302 setup you put them on.
Since you already know they are on sale for $999, if you have the cash get them.
You aren't likely too see any better bang for your buck.

The intake you have is fine. Add a 70mm tb and your good.

Most driveability issues come from too much cam or a short runner intake killing all the power down low, and adding it up top.

If you choose your cam right, your car will run like stock except it will run the quarter a second and a half faster.

Another thing that makes a car hard to drive is the clutch, some people get a h/c/i setup on and think they need to go nuts and buy super strong setups, but they make it hard to slip in traffic.

DucatiRdr · Nov 3, 2010

I guess my hesitation comes from overdoing my '99 Ducati 900SS. I installed a big-bore kit with high comp pistons (11.5:1), had the heads ported and a custom tune. Ran like a raped ape until the fuel mix changed around here and at that point it was regular trips to the dealer for another dyno tune. I got tired of that fast and was hoping to avoid the same problem with my Mustang. That's partly why I'm sticking with the OEM cam for now - a hunting idle will drive me bezerk.

DucatiRdr · Nov 3, 2010

Deleted double post

90lxcoupe · Nov 3, 2010

like someone already said, go with the trick flows for 999 from summit, cant beat that deal, great heads, and when you are done installing them go to Dez racing in Seekonk for a tune. If your going to have someone work on it id suggest them too.

clement · Nov 3, 2010

put the 190 FAC heads on it with a holley systemax and leave the stock cam in it. if the car is setup right high 11s shouldnt be a problem. stock driveability because of the stock cam.

old_blue · Nov 3, 2010

Once you change the cam with speed density you will have issues. You'd be better off going with mass air if you change out the cam.

NIKwoaC · Nov 4, 2010

Don't be afraid of "big" heads. Big heads don't hurt drivability, big cams do.

DucatiRdr · Nov 4, 2010

old_blue said:
Once you change the cam with speed density you will have issues. You'd be better off going with mass air if you change out the cam.

I did the mass air conversion a while ago...back in 1989 I think so I'm good to go.

Bought the Trick Flows on sale plus a 10% coupon. Just over $900 delivered with a set of dowels. Score!

Now to pick out a set of 1.7 rockers...

Notchbck93 · Nov 5, 2010

A stock cam with 1.7's would work if your're that hesitant.

The stock stick is a great torque stick.

DucatiRdr · Nov 5, 2010

I like the driveability of the OEM cam, plus I've never installed one so I'm not sure what's involved. I can pull and replace parts fine, but the tuning, degreeing the thing, etc is what is going to catch me up.

That being said, I hate having to buy parts twice and if I can use the 1.7s with a TFS-1 and Trick Flow TW heads I don't mind holding off on the cam purchase.

2000xp8 · Nov 5, 2010

If you install the cam straight up, which for most people is plenty good, you won't have to tune or degree anything.
The hunting idles is not a product of cam, it's a product of poor installation of parts.
I'm being serious, when the car is bolted back together, it should start up and run like you never took it apart.

Lets not forget you need some 24's and a pmas meter too.

5.0_Junkie · Nov 5, 2010

Hey DucatiRdr where did you get the 10% promo code at summit from? I have ordered lots from summit, maybe I missed it somehow, was it emailed or in the catalog?

DucatiRdr · Nov 5, 2010

5.0_Junkie said:
Hey DucatiRdr where did you get the 10% promo code at summit from? I have ordered lots from summit, maybe I missed it somehow, was it emailed or in the catalog?

The MA Dept of Fish and Wildlife issues a book with the regs every year and Summit was advertising in this year's book. The coupon expired on the 4th though.

I do have a 10% coupon code for Mustangs Unlimited if you're interested. CJ Pony Parts is also having a 10% off sale this weekend.

DucatiRdr · Nov 5, 2010

Ok, so now I'm considering a TFS-1 (sounds freaking mean!) to go with the Trick Flow 170s I have on order. What is the TFS-1 going to drive like on the street? Highway? Traffic? compared to the stock cam? Rough below 2K?

There is a guy up the street with a 1992 with a 4-eye front end. GT-40P heads and Typhoon intake. He had an E-cam and pulled it after having a hunting idle he couldn't fix (disappeared when the OEM cam went back in). He said that if I haven't driven a car with a cam in it that it would take some getting used to, hard brakes at idle, need to feather the throttle until you get on the cam.

I hate to ask 1,000 seemingly simple questions but I have no experience with anything but a stock H/C/I.

25thmustang · Nov 5, 2010

My brother went from a stock cam to a custom grind. I will say, all the people who mention loss of low end... it seems to be a per car basis. His car from the stocker to the custom just pulls harder through the powerband. Also the lump of a cam is just fun.

School me on heads and drivability

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