Seat Risers Out Now What About The Pans

[65-Fstbk]

Finally got my seat risers out. What a bitch those things are!!! About 30 or so spot welds to drill out and then bead welds to grind. Found that the cancer was a little farther along than I had hoped so I will be selling my front long pans and going with a full pan both sides. Advice....don't buy parts before you are SURE what you will need.

So my next question is to butt weld or lap weld the new pans? The floor pans that Mustang Monthly shows on their site seems to be done with a lap and rosette welds. I'm thinking that might be better for me b/c I'm not a welder by trade. I would spray the bare metal with weld through primer first and then seal both sides after.

Also, where do you cut the pans to fit the rear seat area? The back section of my pans are good so should cut to make the easiest path or??

Has anyone got any advice for me here?

Thanks,

Chris

 

[2+2GT]

I put full length floors in mine years ago, but since it'll never be a show car, I just lapped the seam. Now, though, I would never use two long floors, I would replace the whole floor in one piece, as original. Original appearance top and bottom, and less work too.

 

[Red5oh]

I also did just the pans and probably would have gone a full floor just for the ease of it, even though it would not have been necessary. I have plenty of pics for your reference. Let us know how it all goes.

 

[65-Fstbk]

Full floor vs pans

I thought about going full floor but the price difference between a full floor and 2 full pans is quite alot. The tunnel and rear of the pans on the car are in really good shape (tunnel right to pan level is perfect) so I thought fitting in 2 full pans would be pretty easy while keeping as much of the factory metal in the car as possible. It would also avoid the potential for sag in the car when the tunnel section gets cut. I've read a couple of scary stories on that one.

Also, I will check out the link to your pics.

Thanks for the reply guys. I'm looking for as much advice as possible.



Chris

 

[65-Fstbk]

Full Pan Quest

I put full length floors in mine years ago, but since it'll never be a show car, I just lapped the seam. Now, though, I would never use two long floors, I would replace the whole floor in one piece, as original. Original appearance top and bottom, and less work too.

2+2GT - That full pan looks nice. How does it come out in the rear section? Where is the seam line. Did you have any sag issues with tunnel cut?

 

[Cobra5.0Jeep]

I was lucky and only had to replace the front pans.

 

[65FBE2]

I did the complete pan on my convertible and it is well worth the extra money. What is your labor worth and how much do you care what the job looks like when finished? Just be sure and brace the doors with a temp brace before you cut out the floor pan. Measure the openings top middle and bottom. Then make sure you have the same measurements before welding. I drilled out all the factory spots and rewelded once the pan was in place. This will be a little harder to do on a hard top as the pnis large and hard to get in and out. The soft top really help with this. The pan fit almost perfectly with only a small area at the back of the tunnel that needed a small amout of trimming to fit proper.

I also bought new seat risers and convertible reinforcment pans just to save the labor of cleaning them up after they were removed. I would do it the same way again if I had it to do over