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Selecting Clutch and Cable

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ocalafox
  • Start date Start date Nov 6, 2004
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Ocalafox

Member
Mar 8, 2003
266
0
16
sunny central FL
Nov 6, 2004
#1
  • Nov 6, 2004
  • #1
Hey Guys,

I'm beginning to collect parts for an aod-t5 swap this winter. Steeda has the tri-ax for 161.00, most of what i've read imply this is a good quality shifter, opinions?
Also they have the 2-hook quadrant, firewall adjuster and clutch cable for $99. Question is do I want the adjustable or non-adjustable cable? Both kits are the same price. Seems I've read lately most folks like the non-adjustable oem cable for pedal "feel". For clutch, is the king cobra kit for $169 (d/d perf.) a good daily driver street clutch?

Sorry for going long but would like to plan thw swap right.

Thanks!

vann
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
2,674
14
89
Dallas, TX
Nov 6, 2004
#2
  • Nov 6, 2004
  • #2
Sounds like you have done some good research. The shifter is a good quality peice. I use a UPR shifter and have no complaints and is similar to the Steeda shifter. I did however change the handle because I like the natural curve of the Steeda handle "Tri-AX" over the straight handle with the UPR shifter.

The double hook quadrant is not really needed. A single will do just fine and yes you are correct about getting an OEM cable. Diversified has the OEM cable and heavy duty clutch fork for $39.00. Go here to see Clutch Cable .

I have the D&D King Cobra clutch in my car and I love it. It has a VERY LIGHT pedal feel. I also have a single hook quadrant, firewall adjuster and OEM cable.

BTW: Make sure you grease the new cable well by greasing the bare cable and sliding it back and forth until it is greased well. This will help with the easy pedal effort.
 
O

Ocalafox

Member
Mar 8, 2003
266
0
16
sunny central FL
Nov 6, 2004
#3
  • Nov 6, 2004
  • #3
Thanks Kevin (nice cars on your page, mines white hatch) I/ve seen the fork/cable on the DPM site but was worried about the "self-adjusting" feature. I thought (guessed) that non-adj. was the way to go. Would that cable work with a steeda firewall adjuster and single hook quad?

vann
 

CRASH7772

Member
Apr 27, 2003
401
1
16
NH
Nov 6, 2004
#4
  • Nov 6, 2004
  • #4
Ocalafox said:
Hey Guys,

I'm beginning to collect parts for an aod-t5 swap this winter. Steeda has the tri-ax for 161.00, most of what i've read imply this is a good quality shifter, opinions?
Also they have the 2-hook quadrant, firewall adjuster and clutch cable for $99. Question is do I want the adjustable or non-adjustable cable? Both kits are the same price. Seems I've read lately most folks like the non-adjustable oem cable for pedal "feel". For clutch, is the king cobra kit for $169 (d/d perf.) a good daily driver street clutch?

Sorry for going long but would like to plan thw swap right.

Thanks!

vann
Click to expand...

I would vote for the Pro 5.0 shifter and UPR triple hook quadrant 3pc kit. I bought my UPR kit for $75 shipped from NITROSTANGRACING.COM.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Nov 6, 2004
#5
  • Nov 6, 2004
  • #5
Ocalafox said:
Thanks Kevin (nice cars on your page, mines white hatch) I/ve seen the fork/cable on the DPM site but was worried about the "self-adjusting" feature. I thought (guessed) that non-adj. was the way to go. Would that cable work with a steeda firewall adjuster and single hook quad?

vann
Click to expand...
right Vann. i think 89 means to use the aftermarket quadrant, stock non-adjustable cable and a FWA as a means to adjust your cable.
(the quadrant is what allows adjustment - you will not be using the stock adjustable quadrant and pawl from the sound of it).

to answer your question, yes. i will add that single hook quadrants, depending upon the design, can release a bit quickly (less pedal travel from disengaged to engaged).

good luck.
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
2,674
14
89
Dallas, TX
Nov 6, 2004
#6
  • Nov 6, 2004
  • #6
HISSIN50 said:
right Vann. i think 89 means to use the aftermarket quadrant, stock non-adjustable cable and a FWA as a means to adjust your cable.
(the quadrant is what allows adjustment - you will not be using the stock adjustable quadrant and pawl from the sound of it).

to answer your question, yes. i will add that single hook quadrants, depending upon the design, can release a bit quickly (less pedal travel from disengaged to engaged).

good luck.
Click to expand...
Yes thats what I meant.

HISSIN50 is correct about some of the single hook designs being quick release. Usually they are advertised like that "Quick Release". I would stay away from that because it will make the pedal feel stiffer. Try to find one with the factory bend but in aluminum.
 
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Ocalafox

Member
Mar 8, 2003
266
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16
sunny central FL
Nov 6, 2004
#7
  • Nov 6, 2004
  • #7
Thanks 89/Crash/Hissin I appreciate all feedback, especially if I'm incorrect on a part selection. I have zero experience on 5.0's with 5-speeds (except 3 years of forum readings). Last manual I drove was in a duece ana/half in Korea (1984)! Does anybody have any ideas other than j-yard for a pedal assy? Ebay/Stangparts.com gets about $175 for a pedal assy. 5.0resto should sell a set for about $119! I'd be there (Shannon are you listening????)!
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Nov 6, 2004
#8
  • Nov 6, 2004
  • #8
i personally would hit a J/Y, but i dont know how many J/Y's you got in horse-country down there.

are you familiar with the Ocala forum? here it is:
http://www.stangsofocala.com/

you might find some guys parting cars out on there who have what you need.

good luck.
 

Hissing Cobra

Founding Member
Jan 4, 2002
798
0
17
Massachusetts
Nov 6, 2004
#9
  • Nov 6, 2004
  • #9
For the pedal assembly, the junk yard is your best bet. If you find a car with a missing dash assembly, you'll be able to take it out in less than 10 minutes for minimal money (a 4 cylinder assembly is the same as a V-8.) I did this and paid only $20.00 for my whole assembly (complete with brake switch and neutral safety switch!)

As for the clutch cable/quadrant hookup, there's plenty of good units out there. I have the Steeda 3-piece kit (double hook quadrant/cable/firewall adjuster) and it works flawlessly. I also have a Centerforce dual friction clutch which is nice and easy on the pressure (it feels like a stock clutch.)

Whichever way you go, good luck! Just stick to quality names and you should be o.k.
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
2,674
14
89
Dallas, TX
Nov 6, 2004
#10
  • Nov 6, 2004
  • #10
Hissing Cobra said:
For the pedal assembly, the junk yard is your best bet. If you find a car with a missing dash assembly, you'll be able to take it out in less than 10 minutes for minimal money (a 4 cylinder assembly is the same as a V-8.) I did this and paid only $20.00 for my whole assembly (complete with brake switch and neutral safety switch!)
Click to expand...
I did the same thing. Paid $20 and pulled it out myself along with other misc. items.
 

90mustangGT

I felt sorry for girls because
Founding Member
Jan 15, 2002
2,773
17
89
Dallas, GA
Nov 6, 2004
#11
  • Nov 6, 2004
  • #11
What have you done so far about a tranny? If you can find one cheap in a junkyard or someone selling one in good shape, fine, but I wouldn't waste my money on a new one because if you really drive your car, your going to break it. Of course some here will say "I have the original tranny, powershift it often into all gears and go the the track every weekend and my T-5 loves it" and if you did a search on all my post you would find me using that quote many times. If you do go with a T-5, I would stick with a original type clutch or a one up from stock clutch. A clutch that grabbs hard really puts a whoopin on a tranny. My T-5 ran great but when I put a Spec III in it, the countershaft to input shaft gears ported and pollished themselves. The regular centerforce seems to be a good choice for what your are doing.

For the cable and quadrant issue, I would just pick a kit, never heard anything bad about any of them. As for the shifter, it seems with the T-5 the Pro-50 and Steeda are the best. Which one is better??? I think you can't go wrong either way, and the plusses from one to the other are more opinion than fact. The newer Tremec trannies come with Hurst shifters, I like the one that's in my car.
 
D

Demented4.6

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2001
1,055
1
38
DAYTON, OHIO
Nov 7, 2004
#12
  • Nov 7, 2004
  • #12
i have a steeda its holding up fine
 
V

v8only

Active Member
Jul 3, 2003
2,378
22
49
Nov 7, 2004
#13
  • Nov 7, 2004
  • #13
Great advice hear!

I'll pull a pedal assembly, but because it sucks so bad to pull, I charge around $100.

fyi, you actually do not want to grease the cables, they are teflon lined, and are designed not to be greased. Greasing them will trap dirt, grit, grim etc in the cables, and eventually make it hard to press again.

http://50stangs.com/techarticles/clutchcableadjustment.html

I've got tons of info on adj clutch setups on my site if you want to read more.

as for the clutch, the king cobra is a fantastic clutch. It can hold mild amounts of mods, and is very user friendly. Do NOT look for excitement though, as it's mearly an upgraded stock replacement, and you'll get no heavy gear slamming action from it.

Specs are very fun clutches, but I've found that they are WAY too harsh on stock t5's, and wind up breaking the t5's often. The best clutch i've used so far is the centerforce dual friction. It hits hard, but not so hard as to break your t5, and pedal effort is actually significantly lighter than stock.

if you're on a budget though, and are less than 300 horses, go with the king cobra clutch, it's 100-$200 cheaper than the centeforce's and specs. If you choose spec, stay away from the stage one's, they're organic, and chatter like a bitch.
 

1991GreeNLX

New Member
Jul 2, 2004
129
0
0
Houston TX
Nov 8, 2004
#14
  • Nov 8, 2004
  • #14
well the STEEDA CABLE firewall adjuster is great as well as the tri-ax shifter go with a spec stg.2 clutch real nice and will grab if your gonna get a new tranny i recomend a tremec 3550 its a good trany and a step up from the T-5
 
V

v8only

Active Member
Jul 3, 2003
2,378
22
49
Nov 8, 2004
#15
  • Nov 8, 2004
  • #15
fyi, unfortunetly they killed off production on the 3550, only choice now I believe is the 500 or 600, both great trannies though, just a little more $
 

1991GreeNLX

New Member
Jul 2, 2004
129
0
0
Houston TX
Nov 8, 2004
#16
  • Nov 8, 2004
  • #16
i didnt know they stpooed making the 3550 hmm learn something new everyday then get a TKO
 
O

Ocalafox

Member
Mar 8, 2003
266
0
16
sunny central FL
Nov 8, 2004
#17
  • Nov 8, 2004
  • #17
Thanks to all for the great advice! I'm leaning towards a t5 from d/d performance. A local salvage yard quoted $85 for a pedal assy from a 93. They pull it and sell it at the counter, good enough deal for me. I just know my thumpers and tmoss lower will be more fun without the aod!

vann
 

tmoss

Gettin Wired
Founding Member
Jun 28, 2001
7,153
32
128
Saint Louis, MO
Nov 13, 2004
#18
  • Nov 13, 2004
  • #18
89sleeper said:
HISSIN50 is correct about some of the single hook designs being quick release. Usually they are advertised like that "Quick Release". I would stay away from that because it will make the pedal feel stiffer. Try to find one with the factory bend but in aluminum.
Click to expand...

I run the UPR quick release quadrant, firwall adjustor and the stock cable. Pedal feel is just like stock. Also, I saw a recommendation to grease the cable. The original Ford cable had a teflon lining, if the replacements have them too, lubing won't hurt but won't be that efffective either.
 

04sleeper

Founding Member
Jun 22, 2002
2,674
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89
Dallas, TX
Nov 13, 2004
#19
  • Nov 13, 2004
  • #19
tmoss said:
I run the UPR quick release quadrant, firwall adjustor and the stock cable. Pedal feel is just like stock. Also, I saw a recommendation to grease the cable. The original Ford cable had a teflon lining, if the replacements have them too, lubing won't hurt but won't be that efffective either.
Click to expand...
Hmmmmm wierd. A friend of mine was running a quick release quadrant and he had a King Cobra clutch and firewall adjuster like my self and his pedal feel was stiffer than mine. I was under the assumption that the increased rate in quadrant angle would mean you are doing the same thing over a shorter range of motion. "Quick Release".

As far as greasing the cable goes, I have always used the stock cables in my cars over the years and as well as installing them into many of my friends cars and the pedal is never as smooth unless I greased the cable. They are supposed to have the teflon lining but it is still not as smooth as when I would grease them.

fyi, you actually do not want to grease the cables, they are teflon lined, and are designed not to be greased. Greasing them will trap dirt, grit, grim etc in the cables, and eventually make it hard to press again.
Click to expand...
Over 15 years of using this on countless number of cars and never had 1 problem.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Nov 13, 2004
#20
  • Nov 13, 2004
  • #20
a lot of the intangibles in different clutch cable feel (on same/similar set ups) IMHO comes from how well the cable was aligned from the quadrant to firewall.
 
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