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Progress Thread Seriously? Another Boosted Coyote Swap Build? - Still Slowly Moving Forward

  • Thread starter Thread starter Hoytster
  • Start date Start date Oct 3, 2017
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Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
20+ Year Stangneter
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Cornwall, PA
Feb 5, 2018
#181
  • Feb 5, 2018
  • #181
Finished up the passenger side seat mount, the passenger side jacking rail, and started on the first tube for the cross bracing. Hoping to finish up the cross bracing this weekend and then I need to take a couples days off. I have 4 cord of firewood I've been neglecting to get split and I really need to get that done.

Yet again, welding on the pinch welds of a vehicle sucks. It really makes me feel like I don't know how to weld as you're fighting to get decent penetration between multiple thickness of metal, while working your way through the contamination and seam sealer between the panels. I spend ALOT of time cleaning the areas up before welding and it still sucks.


Fabricated seat mount made out of 2x3 .120 stock. Bottom is flat and the top is angled to match the existing seat mounting angle. You could just use 1x3 and not have to form it, but that's not how I do things....





I removed the spot welds on the factory seat mount reinforcements, removed the reinforcements, and welded the holes. I'll grind those down later on.




Starting on the cross bracing. Time to get the pipe notcher out to make everything fit nice. This is a lot like making a cage, except smaller. I'm using 1" .083 DOM tubing.

 
Reactions: hoopty5.0 and Davedacarpainter

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Feb 5, 2018
#182
  • Feb 5, 2018
  • #182
How much weight does this add to the car?
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 30, 2002
1,069
700
164
Cornwall, PA
Feb 5, 2018
#183
  • Feb 5, 2018
  • #183
Surprisingly, not all that much. I will have a better number once I finish and weight all the scrap. I have kept all the pieces I cut out of the car and all the material scraps I have left over, and I have the original weight of all the materials written down somewhere. I used .083 material almost exclusively where most people use .120 material, I saw no real benefit during analysis of going thicker than .083. At this point, without counting the welding wire and making quick calcs, we are talking 50-75 lbs total.
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 30, 2002
1,069
700
164
Cornwall, PA
Feb 5, 2018
#184
  • Feb 5, 2018
  • #184
And I now just saw I have a CT and a new banner. Woot.
 
Reactions: a91what, stanglx2002, Davedacarpainter and 3 others

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
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Birmingham, al
Feb 5, 2018
#185
  • Feb 5, 2018
  • #185
Hoytster said:
Finished up the passenger side seat mount, the passenger side jacking rail, and started on the first tube for the cross bracing. Hoping to finish up the cross bracing this weekend and then I need to take a couples days off. I have 4 cord of firewood I've been neglecting to get split and I really need to get that done.

Yet again, welding on the pinch welds of a vehicle sucks. It really makes me feel like I don't know how to weld as you're fighting to get decent penetration between multiple thickness of metal, while working your way through the contamination and seam sealer between the panels. I spend ALOT of time cleaning the areas up before welding and it still sucks.


Fabricated seat mount made out of 2x3 .120 stock. Bottom is flat and the top is angled to match the existing seat mounting angle. You could just use 1x3 and not have to form it, but that's not how I do things....





I removed the spot welds on the factory seat mount reinforcements, removed the reinforcements, and welded the holes. I'll grind those down later on.




Starting on the cross bracing. Time to get the pipe notcher out to make everything fit nice. This is a lot like making a cage, except smaller. I'm using 1" .083 DOM tubing.

Click to expand...
The welding is beautiful. From somebody that knows what it takes to make a mig weld look like that....Kudos.

 
Last edited: Feb 5, 2018
Reactions: Hoytster

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
27,947
10,584
203
polk county florida
Feb 5, 2018
#186
  • Feb 5, 2018
  • #186
Man, I can't even make jb weld look good.
 
Reactions: Hoytster

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
SN Certified Technician
Nov 28, 2015
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Discordia
Feb 5, 2018
#187
  • Feb 5, 2018
  • #187
Man! That seat bracing ought to hold the fullest sized occupant that'll fit through the doors!
 
Reactions: Hoytster

eighty5fox

Mustang Master
Sep 29, 2016
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mass
Feb 6, 2018
#188
  • Feb 6, 2018
  • #188
wow that is coming out amazing great fabrication skills
 
Reactions: Hoytster

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 30, 2002
1,069
700
164
Cornwall, PA
Feb 6, 2018
#189
  • Feb 6, 2018
  • #189
CarMichael Angelo said:
The welding is beautiful. From somebody that knows what it takes to make a mig weld look like that....Kudos.

Click to expand...


Thanks man. I guess maybe I'm just being a little too critical.
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 30, 2002
1,069
700
164
Cornwall, PA
Feb 6, 2018
#190
  • Feb 6, 2018
  • #190
Davedacarpainter said:
Man! That seat bracing ought to hold the fullest sized occupant that'll fit through the doors!
Click to expand...

She sure is sturdy Need it for my 230 pounds, though hopefully I'm in the drivers seat...
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 30, 2002
1,069
700
164
Cornwall, PA
Feb 10, 2018
#191
  • Feb 10, 2018
  • #191
Finished up the passenger side matrix bracing and reinforcements. Also boxed and welded any open ends of tubing. Pretty happy with the results overall, I learned quite a few things on this side that I'll apply to the driver side.

Front to back view:


Back to front view:


Seat support to Back View:


Seat Support to Front View:


Top View:


Gussets on the inside:
 
Reactions: stanglx2002, hoopty5.0, 90sickfox and 3 others

FoxMustangLvr

I love my Pimp
SN Certified Technician
Oct 14, 2012
4,968
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Spokane, Wa
Feb 12, 2018
#192
  • Feb 12, 2018
  • #192
Nice work bro! Looking at all these undercarriage pictures reminds me how much I hate welding from below. I once had a spark land inside my ear Not fun at all! Ever since that time I wear ear plugs while welding overhead.
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 30, 2002
1,069
700
164
Cornwall, PA
Feb 13, 2018
#193
  • Feb 13, 2018
  • #193
FoxMustangLvr said:
Nice work bro! Looking at all these undercarriage pictures reminds me how much I hate welding from below. I once had a spark land inside my ear Not fun at all! Ever since that time I wear ear plugs while welding overhead.
Click to expand...

Thanks man!

Unfortunately, I know exactly what you are talking about as I've had that happen a couple times now. I wear a welding cap with ear protection flaps but I had one find it's way into my ear on this one. Made me really wish I had this on a rotisserie. Nothing like hearing the inside of your ear burning......
 
Reactions: Davedacarpainter

stanglx2002

CT Material here
15 Year Member
Jul 7, 2005
1,563
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Feb 13, 2018
#194
  • Feb 13, 2018
  • #194
All I can say is WOW!!!!!!! You have taken the ideas I have had for my car for the past 15 years, and are implementing them. I wish that I could do this level of work.

I have been thinking about making my own jacking rails as well, so this is helpful for a future project. You are doing fantastic work, so keep it up
 
Reactions: Hoytster and FoxMustangLvr

jeremythedestroyer

You like Booger weld?WE GOT EM
5 Year Member
Apr 4, 2018
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Apr 9, 2018
#195
  • Apr 9, 2018
  • #195
I like what you did with hard mounting the irs. Also your welds look amazing!
 

bird_dog0347

still married haven't seen testicles in years
15 Year Member
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Apr 9, 2018
#196
  • Apr 9, 2018
  • #196
agreed... also need an update.
 
Reactions: Davedacarpainter

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 30, 2002
1,069
700
164
Cornwall, PA
Apr 10, 2018
#197
  • Apr 10, 2018
  • #197
jeremythedestroyer said:
I like what you did with hard mounting the irs. Also your welds look amazing!
Click to expand...
Thanks man! I was pretty happy with how the hard tail mount worked out sofar. Hopefully it'll actually perform
bird_dog0347 said:
agreed... also need an update.
Click to expand...
I've been slacking a little. Well not so much slacking, just having to put more concentrate into other things right now. I do have 75% of the driver's side matrix bracing done and starting to work on the torque box reinforcements. Just haven't got anything finished yet worth posting.

Also have a Lemons race coming up in May, so most of my weekends have been spent working on this thing. We made some suspension changes this year, some seating and steering changes, and have the normal maintenance items to contend with. Hopefully going to finish up with all the mechanical items this weekend. Then I just have to fab a side window out of lexan for our NACA cooling ducts and call it finished until the race. Then I can start spending more time on the Mustang again.
 
Reactions: bird_dog0347

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
10,641
8,909
234
Birmingham, al
Apr 12, 2018
#198
  • Apr 12, 2018
  • #198
I wish there was a way to know how much stronger this is

I think its beautiful,..I'd just lay under the car and look at it if I did it.

But I wonder...I really wish there was a way to see if the extreme that you have went to with regard to the frame rail stiffening is warranted. I think your work is top notch, but how many bars does it take before the extras just become just added weight?

Trust me, I am the poster child for " Why make it so hard on yourself" comments so I get it.....But even I have a limit...

I am not a fan of through the floor SF connectors, especially when adding all of the cross bracing to tie the rocker pinch weld jacking rail to it. Everytime I see somebody go to the extent that you have, I wonder to myself "what does he gain by this?"

It'd be a really cool science experiment to do a comparison with a car that has that matrix welded under the car versus what has been done to see what if any stiffening was gained.

Your car IIRC has every seam welded additionally...What is the intended goal here? I think you told me, but I'm crotchedy.
 

Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 30, 2002
1,069
700
164
Cornwall, PA
Apr 13, 2018
#199
  • Apr 13, 2018
  • #199
CarMichael Angelo said:
I wish there was a way to know how much stronger this is

I think its beautiful,..I'd just lay under the car and look at it if I did it.

But I wonder...I really wish there was a way to see if the extreme that you have went to with regard to the frame rail stiffening is warranted. I think your work is top notch, but how many bars does it take before the extras just become just added weight?

Trust me, I am the poster child for " Why make it so hard on yourself" comments so I get it.....But even I have a limit...

I am not a fan of through the floor SF connectors, especially when adding all of the cross bracing to tie the rocker pinch weld jacking rail to it. Everytime I see somebody go to the extent that you have, I wonder to myself "what does he gain by this?"

It'd be a really cool science experiment to do a comparison with a car that has that matrix welded under the car versus what has been done to see what if any stiffening was gained.

Your car IIRC has every seam welded additionally...What is the intended goal here? I think you told me, but I'm crotchedy.
Click to expand...


Appreciate the kind words, and yes, I have sat underneath the car and stared at it. Not too long though, I have plenty of work to get done still.

I agree with you, I wish there was an easy way to measure how much stiffer this whole setup is. I wish I had a test rack that would be able to test rigidity of the chassis before and after the modifications, but, then I'd probably be working for a manufacturer or a well funded racing team. The only real-world measurement I have is the difference in corner jacking the car, which is quite significant. Makes me wish I had taken some measurements of chassis rigidity before I started cutting in the floor. I remember an article By MM&FF back in, oh, 2009 I think, that tested the difference in chassis rigidity before and after subframe connectors. All they did was measure critical points of the chassis and jack the vehicle in certain areas to see how much the chassis deflected. Surprisingly, the MM subframe connectors they installed didn't effect torsional rigidity much, but increased floor pan stiffness significantly which is what they attributed to the "seat of the pants" feel you get when you install connectors. My design is obviously a little more involved than just welding in a set of external connectors, which is by design.

One thing I did before I started cutting was design the entire reinforcement setup in CAD and perform some half-assed analysis of the rigidity of my design. To be clear, this analysis did not factor in the vehicle chassis itself, it just looked at the reinforcement setup as a whole, outside of the car. I really have no numbers as to how this setup performs welded into the car, I am just assuming from my experience that the design will augment the rigidity that is already in the chassis. By looking at my design in CAD, I was able to trim down metal thickness and the amount of bars to maximize the strength of the design. I went with .083 thickness rails and tubing, where most people go with .120. I found no benefit with going with .120 in my design, which would have added some significant weight. I also stuck with 2x3 for the main rail where most people go with 2x2. The increase in vertical height of the main rail helps to increase torsional rigidity in the design, much more than a 2x2 .120 main rail. I'm not trying to justify my design, you give you a perspective of what I looked at and why I went with what I did.

The cross bracing I did was originally based on Stifflers x-brace design. Their design is pretty good, so I didn't have to modify much to incorporate it into my design. Yet again, I have no way to quantify the benefits on the actual car, but the increase in lateral rigidity in CAD was huge. You don't have to deal with lateral rigidity in the chassis much with drag cars, but it's very important for road race cars. Torsional rigidity is important in both types of racing. Since most of the strength in a Fox chassis is in the rocker panels, I wanted to tie the subframes and cross bracing into the rocker panels so everything would work together as one unit. Plus I can fab jacking plates for the tube I welded down the rocker panel to make jacking that car up easier.

Other considerations I had:
1. The rocker to subframe corner pieces were added to give me a good spot to tie my cage too. They had the added benefit of increasing lateral rigidity of the chassis and adding safety into the wheel well.
2. I wanted the seat mounts to be as strong as possible, and probably overkill. I really want to feel the car and road, and don't want any flex in the seat mount.
3. Safety. I don't plan on running a full cage with a halo (since this will be driven on the street), so I'm trying to build as much strength in other areas as I can. This is also why I am stitch welding the entire car. Some of it has to do with rigidity, but most of it has to do with staying alive in the off chance I smack a wall at 100+ mph.

I can go on and on about all the other things I looked at, but in the end, I really have no way to quantify the increase in stiffness in the actual car at this point. I just know I can now jack three corners of the car up by putting the jack in a strategic location, something I could not do before the install. There are still many other reinforcements I plan on doing to the car still that will tie together with everything else I am doing. In truth, what I have done so far does not increase torsional rigidity all that much. Adding more reinforcements in the vertical plan will really help with the torsional rigidity. Also, stitch welding the transmission tunnel and firewall area will also help with this.

After all that being said, the main reason my setup is so involved is I wanted this to be integrated in the car as best as possible. I never really liked the add on subframes hanging below the car and other reinforcements being "tacked" on. I want people to really have to look closely to notice what I did. I'm not building this car for attention, but I do appreciate when someone notices the amount of work that must have went into making this all happen. Is this setup for everyone? Definitely not. There are much faster and easier ways to accomplish what I did, but I do believe my design is very strong and will benefit what I'm trying to do with the car. Plus by integrating this all through the floor, I'm cutting weight out of the car being I start putting stuff back in. I finally got around to measuring the weight of everything I have cut off and everything that I have welded back in (including welding wire). In total, I added ~65 pounds with this whole setup.
 
Reactions: General karthief

Davedacarpainter

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...
SN Certified Technician
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Discordia
May 6, 2018
#200
  • May 6, 2018
  • #200
Honestly! I don't know how you expect me to copy your work if you aren't showing us what you're doing.........
 
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