Engine Several blocks past my wits' end... Running, died, won't start.

[6t9Mach1]

2010 4.0 Mustang, 90,000 miles, wife's daily driver. Over the past few months have had codes P0193, P0201, P0182 resulting in CEL and rough idle at times. Replaced Fuel Pressure Sensor (Motorcraft) and Fuel Injectors (Bosh), replaced fuel filter (Motorcraft) and replaced battery, old one was 5 years old, then cleared CEL. CEL returned in a few days, P0182 lower-than-normal voltage signal from the fuel temperature sensor. From what I've read there is a temp. sensor build into the Fuel Pressure Sensor I already replaced, and I think I read there is also one on the fuel pump. Plugs are good. She's been running the car for a couple of weeks with CEL on but running fine. That ended a couple days ago with a tow via AAA. Car was running fine then while stopped at a stop sign it began to idle rough, light turned green and she tried to get around corner to park out of traffic and it only went a few feet and died. Cranks fine but will not start. Just under 1/2 tank of gas. After getting it home I tried to start and same result, cranks fine but no start or signs of wanting to start. Next morning same thing. Checked for spark and good spark, checked one of the injectors connectors with noid light and was getting impulse. What really made me scratch my head though, I shot some starter fluid into intake and still would not even pop.

Sorry for the length but I wanted to give as much detail as I could. It cranks, sparks but will not even run on starting fluid. I've always suspected it was time for a new fuel pump but if the was the issue it would at least pop on the ether. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated! And thanks for taking the time to read all this.

 

[6t9Mach1]

I have finally found the source of my problems. The "Motorcraft" fuel pressure sensor I purchased on eBay ($17) I suspect is a China knockoff. I replaced it with a part from Rock Auto ($78) and the Mustang sprang to life and is running perfectly. Just because an eBay listing says a part is genuine Motorcraft doesn't mean it is. The Motorcraft bags the parts came in look very similar. The tell is that the knockoff part, while looking identical physically, does not have any markings on it. The genuine part has the part number on it, Fomoco and Bosh markings on it.

Cheap can end up being very expensive. No more eBay "Motorcraft" parts for me! Hope this helps someone.

 

[Noobz347]

Just because an eBay listing says a part is genuine Motorcraft doesn't mean it is.

Welcome to the internet!


Glad you got it worked out.

 

[6t9Mach1]

Thanks for the reply. Ford has buildings full of lawyers just to track the illegal use of the name and logo. I'm surprised they can't crack down on eBay better.

 

[Adieu]

Thanks for the reply. Ford has buildings full of lawyers just to track the illegal use of the name and logo. I'm surprised they can't crack down on eBay better.

The problem is every manufacturer outsourced production of parts to Asia, mainly China. Several Asian countries (especially China) don't give a damn about US patents and IP laws, and sell knock-off parts, manufactured using the knowledge they gained from the American company, frequently of substandard quality, via Amazon, Ebay, Wish, Temu, AliExpress, and so on and so forth. Sometimes it's just fine (brackets, pulleys, air cleaners, stuff like that), other times it's disastrous (like your sensor).

Ford could sue eBay all they want, eBay is just a marketplace and isn't liable, the seller is, and with them in China and China not giving a damn about our laws? They're untouchable.

The counterfeit parts problem is worse than you know though. Say a legitimate supplier sells via Amazon. A counterfeit supplier also sells via Amazon. You order a part, guess which inventory you get? Hint: You don't know until it shows up, if you can even tell. Why? All of the inventory is stocked on the same shelf together.

This causes an additional source of fake parts, the parts store. How? Joe Schmoe orders a "BWD" sensor from eBay or Amazon, or wherever. He installs it and it doesn't work. He doesn't have time to wait on another part, so he runs to the parts store, pays way more for one off their shelf that is legit, and installs it. He then returns the knockoff part to the parts store in their box to get his money back. The parts counterperson who either knows nothing about cars or has the misfortune of being one of the few who still does and in that case being way to stressed out to take a good look at the part, returns it for the customer and puts it on the shelf for the NEXT poor sap.

The only place you can be 99.99% sure you're getting what you're paying for is through the dealership or an OEM approved wholesaler, and you'll notice I left a little room for error because I've had a single time where something slipped through the cracks that I'm aware of (vs the others being fairly prevalent in comparison).

 

[6t9Mach1]

I understand Ford couldn't blame eBay, I should have said eBay sellers. But I guess if they did the seller would just shut down and 15 minutes later be selling under a different name. I guess the best we can do is share our experience and hope others will not make the same mistake.

 

[rednotch]

Can't really trust eBay on anything packaged after early 2000's. It and Amazon are flooded with over seas sellers hawking generic stuff in counterfeit packaging to straight up.direct copies from the same factory. Been buying old stock stuff from sellers who do liquidation and could grab stuff pretty cheaply but its drying up and there asking way more now. I tend to avoid it all together for newer cars.