Progress Thread severe97's Project Thread!

severe97 · Jan 27, 2025

Hello I need help please, I’ve been experiencing overheating issues, the needle can sit right in the middle at idle and as soon as I drive it will spike all the way to red (270). I don’t hear any bubbling coming from the radiator though, however; once I pull over the car will hesitate to start, slow crank until it cools down. Here is what I’ve done to it:

I recently refreshed the engine with GT40 heads, truck flow stage 1 cam and lower/upper explorer intake, headers and straight pipe. It has a new motor raft 180 thermostat, new SVE radiator, new motorcraft water pump and the stock fan. The timing is set up at 12 degrees and I did let the radiator burp. I have also replaced the temperature gauge sensor and the air charge temperature thats right behind it. The coolant sensor is also fairly new.

I just replaced one O2 oxygen sensor that broke, with a motorcraft as well. What am I missing? I thought maybe the heater core is bad but then I have no leaks.

Lastly, I rebuilt the computer by replacing the capacitors and I also replaced the relay on top of the computer that was bad.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

gkomo · Jan 27, 2025

I feel like you may have two different conditions/issues you assume are related. I can’t see coolant temp ‘spiking’ so quickly. It would be a slow gradual climb to 270 IMO. Do you have a real water temp gauge or just going off the stock cluster gauge?

The hesitating start may be something unrelated like your starter getting heat soaked, etc.

There are smarter people than me that will chime in though.

Have you pulled codes?

Noobz347 · Jan 27, 2025

When you see spikes, that usually means that there's air in the system. The temp sensor gets bathed in a pocket of steam and...

Also.... What codes do you get?

severe97 · Jan 27, 2025

gkomo said:
I feel like you may have two different conditions/issues you assume are related. I can’t see coolant temp ‘spiking’ so quickly. It would be a slow gradual climb to 270 IMO. Do you have a real water temp gauge or just going off the stock cluster gauge?

The hesitating start may be something unrelated like your starter getting heat soaked, etc.

There are smarter people than me that will chime in though.

Have you pulled codes?

Thanks,

Yes, the temperature actually takes a little while to get to normal (mid range). Once I drive off it’ll go to 3/4 then almost hit 270 right about the L. It does drop back to 3/4 (assuming thermostat opens) then goes back up. Maybe it needs more antifreeze but then I filled it up when I installed the water pump.

Could be the starter is getting heat soaked, but you’re right, I think it’s related to the overheating issue.

I have the stock cluster gauge, I thought about installing an aftermarket but I was hoping it could be something else.

Last time I pulled codes which was recently I got 22, 81, 82 and 84.

severe97 · Jan 27, 2025

Noobz347 said:
When you see spikes, that usually means that there's air in the system. The temp sensor gets bathed in a pocket of steam and...

Also.... What codes do you get?

Thanks, I should try taking the air out again. I had the car on jackstands and idling for about 25 minutes while putting antifreeze 50/50 and letting air out with a flannel.

Noobz347 · Jan 27, 2025

Code 22: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Out of Range

This needs to be addressed. Are you Speed Density or Mass Air?

Code 84: EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) Solenoid Circuit Failure

This also needs to be addressed. Checked the connectors and wires. Check the solenoid for resistance. Anywhere between 30ish and 70ish ohms is good. It may need to be replaced.

severe97 · Jan 27, 2025

Noobz347 said:
Code 22: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Out of Range

This needs to be addressed. Are you Speed Density or Mass Air?

Code 84: EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) Solenoid Circuit Failure

This also needs to be addressed. Checked the connectors and wires. Check the solenoid for resistance. Anywhere between 30ish and 70ish ohms is good. It may need to be replaced.

It’s a 90 speed density.

Thanks, ill check the connectors and resistance. What are the symptoms for code 84?

Noobz347 · Jan 27, 2025

severe97 said:
It’s a 90 speed density.

Thanks, ill check the connectors and resistance. What are the symptoms for code 84?

Other than the code, it [could] cause some idle or [just off idle] issues. It really depends on what's wrong with the valve. If the diaphragm is bad then that's a vacuum leak helping or causing your first code.

On your speed density, and first code:
SD and TFS-1... Hmmmm... I'd have to do a little more research.

You can test these MAP sensors.... sorta. To me, it's easier to have another on-hand. Particularly, when the code is for [out of range]. Check the vacuum lines just be sure. It should not share vac with [anything] if it can be avoided. Even a T going to a gauge can be an issue.

@2000xp8 Do you have a thought on this?

severe97 · Jan 27, 2025

Thanks for your input. Sounds like I need to do more digging. I’ll continue providing updates and checking for more replies.

Mac131 · Jan 28, 2025

I'd check to make sure you have a reverse rotation water pump installed.

RaggedGT · Jan 28, 2025

To much timing maybe ?

severe97 · Jan 28, 2025

Mac131 said:
I'd check to make sure you have a reverse rotation water pump installed.

I do, I made sure it was a reverse one when I bought it from LMR. Thanks

severe97 · Jan 28, 2025

RaggedGT said:
To much timing maybe ?

I thought about it. It’s at 12 could be 13 maybe that’s where it feels best. I have a basic timing gun too, any tips?

bentley429isBAC · Jan 28, 2025

Likely have more air in the system. Jack the front of the car up, remove radiator cap start the car let it run and watch for it to burp. If you did this while its on the ground flat the radiator may not be the highest point in the system trapping air in the engine.

LILCBRA · Jan 28, 2025

Quick question for clarification: did you set timing with the spout connector disconnected? Or is your 12* number with it installed?

2000xp8 · Jan 28, 2025

Any time i've seen a temp spike, it's always been air.
I used to just let the car idle in the driveway for like 30 minutes.
I also have used an autometer full sweep mechanical gauge as long as I remember.

I never really did much code reading, i used to have access to so many spare parts, almost none of which are hard to install, that i would just swap in new ones, if it didn't fix it, i left i in there and the one i had became the spare.

The duration on the TFS stage one looks to be close to the high side for speed density, not sure if that one was around when guys were still experimenting with SD.

severe97 · Jan 28, 2025

bentley429isBAC said:
Likely have more air in the system. Jack the front of the car up, remove radiator cap start the car let it run and watch for it to burp. If you did this while its on the ground flat the radiator may not be the highest point in the system trapping air in the engine.

Thanks, I did do that but maybe didn’t get all the air out. I’ll do that again.

severe97 · Jan 28, 2025

2000xp8 said:
Any time i've seen a temp spike, it's always been air.
I used to just let the car idle in the driveway for like 30 minutes.
I also have used an autometer full sweep mechanical gauge as long as I remember.

I never really did much code reading, i used to have access to so many spare parts, almost none of which are hard to install, that i would just swap in new ones, if it didn't fix it, i left i in there and the one i had became the spare.

The duration on the TFS stage one looks to be close to the high side for speed density, not sure if that one was around when guys were still experimenting with SD.

Thanks for your feedback,

I’m really hoping it’s air in the system that should be an easy fix. Also, might as well get an autometer water gauge to eliminate the possibility of a bad cluster gauge.

In terms of my set up, I thought the GT40 heads and TFS 1 set up is very popular, if it’s high for speed density, is there a solution for this?

Thanks again

severe97 · Jan 28, 2025

LILCBRA said:
Quick question for clarification: did you set timing with the spout connector disconnected? Or is your 12* number with it installed?

Thanks,

I disconnected the spout connector, set it at 12 degrees then reconnected the spout connector again.

General karthief · Jan 28, 2025

A 90 model with Speed Density?
That should be a Mass Air system.
That's the first thing I would address........

Progress Thread severe97's Project Thread!

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now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

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Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

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I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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Progress Thread severe97's Project Thread!

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now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft

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Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

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I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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