She moved on its own today!!!!! Yey... but..

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Jul 24, 2003
2,872
3
48
StateCollege PA
slight probrems. One is that when clutch meet flywheel, it shakes the entire car. Like u remenber how first time u ever drove standard car? imagine that, but much more prominant. I'm assuming its due to New clutch, and fresh flywheels. and there for as it brake in, it'll get better. I hope

Next probrem is that despite the use of new TOB, i still got sqweeks like it did with OEM TOB:mad: ! Its much louder. And its also shaking the clucth pedal!!!
There has got to be someway to adjust OEM Clucth. i just need to put tiny tiny bit of tension on the cable to make it go away

Ne1??
 
i used SPEC stg1 kit with reserfaced OEM flywheel.
Once its moving, shifting is no probrem. But to get it going, its alike shakes the entire car if i try to move like anyother 5speed car. i can damn near do clutch drop, then it'll not shake, but i don't want to do drag lantch everytime i drive the car either. I mean i CAN NOT do creep forword(or backword for that matter) right now, hense makes it impossible to drive through trafic.
And the chirp&pedal shake at idle... both will stop if i put tiny amount of pressure to it, or drive away. hense the idea of adjusting. But then i realized that if i put tiny amount of pressure to the pedal while car is moving, then it MAKES it to chirp! WTF?
 
Mity, lol at this problem. dont get me wrong, i feel for you bad, but those are the EXACT SAME PROBLEMS i had with my stage 2 Spec clutch. everytime you start from a dead stop, the whole car shakes and rattles like its going to stall. i had that too. it lasted for maybe 3k miles, then went away by itself. i guessed it was the OEM flywheel having "seating issues" with the aftermarket clutch, even though it was re-surfaced. it went away though. i also had the squeaky TOB as well. it also went away after a while. it comes back every now and then, mostly when cold ( :shrug: ), but it stays quiet most of the time. if the TOB squeak persists, try pulling it back out (i know its a PITA) and greasing it again. really pack the grease in there.
 
3000 F!@#ing miles?!?!?
i didn't even put that much miles on the car this past year. God DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Does aftermarket adjuster fix this plobrem?!
 
mity2 said:
3000 F!@#ing miles?!?!?
i didn't even put that much miles on the car this past year. God DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Does aftermarket adjuster fix this plobrem?!
i had an aftermarket UPR adjuster and it still rattled away. im almost positive the flywheel was just seating itself to the new clutch
 
I have the SPEC stage 2 light weight clutch kit & aluminum flywheel.... let me tell you
that som-beatch rattles the pedal like crazy. The TOB squeek really sucks too, I now
have 7,000 miles on this set-up and it doesn't seem like the squeek or the rattle
will stop any time soon.
 
So only solution i have is to drive this as much as i can until it brake in?? I mean i'm awear that new clutch needs to be broken in, but it seem WAY too much jutter and everything else even so

Hey Derek, your probrem was basicaly omething like this(now that i found better way to explain it)
when you start to release the clutch pedal and it feels like it grabs, releases, grabs, releases, several times in a short amount of time. Almost like a bouncing sensation of the clutch pedal. A shudder type feeling might be another way to describe it. Once it is engaged there is no problem. It occurs during the transition from disengaged to engaged

is it? And if so, urs went away after 3000mikes compleately? or still does it little?
Seems like i now finding many people having issue wit SPEC clutch...
 
Well if it's a grabby clutch it should go away after 500-1000 miles of intown driving. I just went though something like this with the King Cobra Clutch and OEM flywheel.... my problem was the flywheel wasn't surfaced correctly which put $0.50 cent side hot spots on both the flywheel and pressure plate only after 63 miles of driving.
 
aight mity its called clutch chatter and spec is imfamous for it. like i said before with spec its either a hit or miss type case. it might go away soon or stay there the whole time. do a proper brake in of the clutch and hope for the best. my mcleod only chattered for 300 miles and never has again but my buddies cobra is still chattering with like 20000 miles on it.
 
well, i've dicided that i'm taking this SPEC(read POS BTW) off. All i wanted was something smooth and durable. chance of my car ever see 300+RWHP is almost non-existant, and although SPEC might be great clutch for racing(and i think it is, as its grabby as all hell), and i don't race, there for i'm just not willing to sacrifice daily drivability for once or twice per year racing.
So i think i'm going to get Ford clutch replacement(just clutch. i'm going to re-use Spec pressure plate, as it was gift from my GF, and she is feelin really bad about it), and order new TOB.

Soo my question now is Who makes BEST - meaning non singin - throw Out Bearing???
 
Your spec clutch isnt going to get any better. Mine has been in there nearly a year, and still chatters like the first day i installed it. The throw out makes a nice noise when you push it in, the clutch pedal is pulled out so you can feel it barely catch DOES feel like it engages/disengages, although the clutch pedal hasn't moved at all. Its like the clutch only rubs on half of the flywheel and only catches when the certain half of it makes contact with it. If that made any sense? The clutch does grab, but im gonna be putting a different one in here, this is a joke. I've hated it since day one. I'll probably go with a centerforce dual friction or osmething as a replacement. And get a new friction material for my aluminum flywheel =/ I hope it works out good, because I might be putting a PI motor in here soon. :) Either way good luck to you. And dont use the spec pressure plate with any other clutch disk or whateve ryou were going to do. Get yourself some other (ford racing or king cobra) goto google and type in ford racing and you should be able to find the site. Its called Ford Racing Performance Parts. They should be able to set you up. Check out MaximumMotorsports.com too, might have some info. Good luck