shock tower chop in a 66

mtaqua · Feb 18, 2012

Attached is what I've done so far. I got TCP UCAs with the drop arms and flipped them so the bolt holes would be lower. I had to cut holes for the heim joints to fit. I'll post more pics when I get paint on them. I've also got some pics of the header clearance before I did this, will post some comparison photos when I get the motor back in.

2+2GT · Feb 19, 2012

That's a lotta work. I'm wondering why you're doing it. I have seen engines up to both 351W and 351C installed in 65-66 without all that cutting and welding. Are you going larger than that?

mtaqua · Feb 19, 2012

probably because I am never happy with the car. I had to dimple the 1 3/4 headers quite a bit to get them to fit (383W). Changing plugs and putting the headers on was a pain. Hopefully this helps.

2+2GT · Feb 19, 2012

Well, maybe you just needed better headers. I don't suppose you've ever changed the plugs on a 67-70 FE-equipped Mustang? What you have done will certainly make the plugs easier to get at, although if you use double-platinum plugs that'll be about once every 100,000 miles. How much lower is the pivot shaft on the upper arms?

mtaqua · Feb 19, 2012

I use AR 3924 plugs in my highports, also taking them to read the plugs will be more often than every 100K. Headers are accufabs, not sure what else I can get. Of the ones I've seen they all fit about the same. I think having the raised exhaust port made the headers stick out further than a stock exhaust port location. The port is taller relative to the V (.75 over stock, using trig makes .5 inches wider on each side of the motor for a total of 1" wider overall). I was planning on going larger next time, maybe 2"; so I should have room now. This is more of a track car that I drive on the street.

The pivot shaft arm itself is in the same location as a shelby drop (1" lower than stock). The bolt holes are underneath the pivot arm, rather than through the middle. They are made to drop the arms without having to drill holes (I flipped them instead to bolt them up from the bottom).
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/support/uca/UCA-06-SVH_AT.jpg

bikefreak600 · Feb 19, 2012

i am doing something similar. extra clearance for big header tubes is nice.

mtaqua · Feb 19, 2012

24.5" between where the pivot shafts bolt up, and 28.5" between the middle parts. will post pics when I get the motor back in.

65wildstang · Feb 20, 2012

I had the same concerns when i was running my 351W. I had the Hedman swap headers and they were tight. Once you remove the towers you'll have plenty room. Actually it'll make the motor look small.LOL. Later on down the road the possibilities of a new engine & drivetrain are endless.

mtaqua · Feb 20, 2012

I should have the motor in this weekend. The coil over shocks from moneymaker will be in Wednesday. I've got some C-460 heads I was trying to sale to fund a new short block. Seems no one wants them, maybe I can stick a BBF in it now.

Wicked65 · Feb 21, 2012

With going that far, you should have just done the Mii front end. I know for me, the notching didnt really do enough to make it worth it.. and after buying the coil over setup, i could have just bought the Mii front for the same price.

mtaqua · Feb 21, 2012

I know I should have done the MII, however I've made to many other decision based on the stock style suspension to go that route. Next time, that will probably be my route. I hate shock towers.

I didn't mind the notching, I actually ejoy the fab work alot. Almost more than driving the car. I don't see it as a problem, more of something fun to do.

shock tower chop in a 66

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